Roksanda Ilincic Pre-Fall 2013

[Stereo_Flo]

By Nicole Phelps

A 9 a.m. market appointment with designer Roksanda Ilincic could send a denim-loving American editor running back to her bed. The London-based Ilincic is Eastern Europe's answer to L'Wren Scott—tall, gorgeous, and almost intimidatingly put-together. Their collections have their similarities, too. Both like the look of an ostensibly prim dress—long sleeves, hem below the knee, a collared neckline. But where Scott's have a Hollywood precision, Ilincic serves hers up with a touch of London quirk, which gives her clothes something of a more day-to-day feel. One sleeveless number was a patchwork of silk crepe in hot pink, neon orange, and chartreuse, and she used the same colors to create one of the collection's vibrant plaids.

Volume used to be Ilincic's thing. The last couple of seasons she's been thinking along stricter lines, but some of the magnified proportions she used to do have returned for pre-fall. Pointing out the exaggerated darts and oversize pockets on three-quarter-length dresses, she referenced the midcentury design legend Claire McCardell, who "casualized" and Americanized the more formal traditions of French couture. As it happens, Ilincic is doing her own part to add ease to the getting-dressed equation. Her chartreuse gown is actually two pieces, T-shirt and ball skirt, and they're made from a cotton-silk blend.

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[Stereo_Flo]

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[Stereo_Flo]

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[Psylocke]

I still cannot help but think that she would have been such a perfect candidate for the job at Balenciaga. She's great with colors, shapes, innovative cuts and it's all got the right amount of femininity, masculinity and playfulness. Most of this is so not my taste and yet I still find myself admiring all the cute little details in every look and the fact that everything looks so neat in spite of all the draping, pleats and odd patterns. The boots are amazing and the styling is cool. I'm only bothered by the fact that the model has no neck!

 

[Scott]

unfortunately i don't think PPR was ever thinking in those terms. big name and commercially viable. but you're right--there are qualities about roksanda that could have certainly translated into balenciaga and had this been the situation with the former owner,it wouldn't have been surprising to see them take a risk on a less familiar name. also,like thimister when he designed,she could have captured elements from the archives really well because of her own sense of elegance. but again i don't think they're thinking of balenciaga the house but balenciaga the profit.

anyway,this is a really lovely evolution for roksanda. i'm really admiring the claire mccardell influence here....it seems to work within her world somehow.