Ruffian F/W 07.08 NYC

[peacelover142002]

NEW YORK, February 3, 2007 – “If Nan Kempner hung out with Bob Dylan in the West Village in the fifties, this is what she would've worn," Brian Wolk said backstage at the National Arts Club, Claude Morais standing by as if about to jump in and finish his partner’s sentence for him.

And, yes, you could absolutely picture Kempner, the late, rail-thin clotheshorse whose style is currently being celebrated at the Costume Institute exhibit, in the duo’s second-skin ("molded," they called it) stretch-charmeuse top and high-waisted silk-faille trousers. She would’ve just loved the ruffle flounces that traipsed along the lapel of a wrap jacket and down the neckline of a halter.

Ruffian has long bandied about the aspirational term “American couture,” and it's always seemed anachronistic that they should design for women of Kempner’s generation and tax bracket. But perhaps their focus is shifting. While it was clear they hadn’t exactly raided the bargain bin when it came to fabrics—all that polished wool, silk taffeta, and sequins—plenty of the pieces would look believable on, say, Olivia Palermo (the freshly anointed social darling who sat in the front row and, based solely on the number of shows she's hit so far this weekend, just might rival Kempner for fashion enthusiasm). In a Ruffian cashmere flannel A-line dress with snaps and exposed zippers, any twenty-first-century Nan would fairly glow.

– Nicole Phelps

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[peacelover142002]

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[peacelover142002]

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[peacelover142002]

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[peacelover142002]

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[peacelover142002]

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[peacelover142002]

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All the shiny-ness is a bit too garish for me.

 

[disco54]

that Blue silk jumpsuit is AMMMMMAZING!!! looks like waterfalls....really impressive collection

 

[kanita]

When designers start looking worse than high street stores, something went wrong.

 

[anaisanais]

mmmmmmmm interesting cuts, fabrics and details

luv this tho- sharp!

 

[DJCNOR]

I liked the deep blue especially in satin-shiny fabrics, and somehow these wide trousers look good! And absolutely no sack shapes. Overall very classy.

 

[liberty33r1b]

oh i really like this collection, but i just can't picture Nan Kempner in any of these outfits otherwise it looks very solid and wearable!

 

[birdofparadise]

I think what does this in...and I almost feel silly for typing it because I'm usually not that observant...I don't think the models really pull this off, the casting isn't right, with a few exceptions (Rach Alexander is A+).

 

[ackulick]

With a few exceptions, I'm not feeling it. The shiny-ness must cease. Right now. There are generally some great ideas and designs, but some of the fabric used just irks me. And I don't agree with that Nan Kempner theory either haha.

 

[ms.jade]

With a few exceptions, I'm not feeling it. The shiny-ness must cease. Right now. There are generally some great ideas and designs, but some of the fabric used just irks me. And I don't agree with that Nan Kempner theory either haha.

I totally agree. When I first saw the photos I though, hell, what's that shiny fabric. I love the blue jumpsuit, onepiece thing, but the rest...!?


Maybe the widelegged trousers? They look interessting. But the whole collection seems to live from the shininess and that's what I really don't like about it. Maybe it's just a matter of taste!?

 

[ms.jade]

The Spring Season isn't much better. Less shiny, but not better at all.
Maybe I simply don't like Ruffian?

...

 

[Trista]

I like some of it to be honest. The pink shirt/orange skirt ensemble in post 4 I would wear head-to-toe like it was shown on the runways. I like Cecilia's jumpsuit as well and Irina's striped miniskirt, but some of the things weren't to my liking.

 

[Diorling]

I think it's fantastic. I would lose the poorly cut leather pants. But for the most part, it's a great collection. Great colors

 

[BaroqueRockstar]

not too bad, but not my cup of tea

 

[sogangsta]

^agreed