S.S. Daley F/W 2025.26 London

For me he is the next star in LFW and it’s a matter of time before he leaves to PFW. It’s quirky and interesting while commercial and approachable.

He could have interestingly be a successor to JWA at Loewe somehow. But he needs to develop his voice more.
 
With how directionless, pointless and utterly useless LFW has been this last decade, his does seem to contain, maintain and remember some semblance of an idiosyncratic, quirky, kooky Mad Hatter’s sensibility that’s a huge part of the English aesthetic. Unfortunately, it’s also of that childrenswear-fetish that’s also become the expected standard of LFW. HIs arts-and-crafts construction and tailoring seems solid— just a shame the designs and styling is so horrendously juvenile. Can’t abide by the pubescent vibe of adults dressing like children aesthetic. The women’s is more tolerable than the “men’s”— which is so obnoxiously childish. Unlike the superior talents of older generations, from Walter Van Beirendonck, Junya to Comme — whom have always slyly taken from childrenswear but possessed the subtlety, nuances and wit to revision children’s and boys' dress sensibility for men, this lesser generation, headed by my public enemy #1 JW, are just so literal it’s just blatant fetishism.This look on any male who isn’t a toddler is so particularly cringe:



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With how directionless, pointless and utterly useless LFW has been this last decade, his does seem to contain, maintain and remember some semblance of an idiosyncratic, quirky, kooky Mad Hatter’s sensibility that’s a huge part of the English aesthetic. Unfortunately, it’s also of that childrenswear-fetish that’s also become the expected standard of LFW. HIs arts-and-crafts construction and tailoring seems solid— just a shame the designs and styling is so horrendously juvenile. Can’t abide by the pubescent vibe of adults dressing like children aesthetic. The women’s is more tolerable than the “men’s”— which is so obnoxiously childish. Unlike the superior talents of older generations, from Walter Van Beirendonck, Junya to Comme — whom have always slyly taken from childrenswear but possessed the subtlety, nuances and wit to revision children’s and boys' dress sensibility for men, this lesser generation, headed by my public enemy #1 JW, are just so literal it’s just blatant fetishism.This look on any male who isn’t a toddler is so particularly cringe:
For me, the issue is always how those sorts of menswear looks tend to be styled from the waist down: boxy short shorts paired with long socks and some sort of dress shoe. Along with the models' often thin bodies, it just gives off the vibes of fetishised schoolboys.
 

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