For me it’s about the ethos of the brand. Not so much about the aesthetic. A designer can have their aesthetic, their language and should be able to mold it to fit the ethos of the brand.
That’s why for example Karl had his aesthetic that he applied to Fendi and Chanel and Chloe. Karl did the round shapes everywhere, he had a specific way to do a chiffon dress, he had a specific way to play with shoulders, he had a specific way to do flou. But Chanel under Karl was different to Fendi under Karl.
For me what’s happening with Matthieu, JWA, PPP is different to what is happening with Michele at Valentino.
We can agree to disagree and we will continue to disagree on that matter.
There’s a reason why Hedi did a volte-face after his first Celine show which was the logic continuation of his last YSL show. There’s a reason why Michele suddenly tone things down in his last show to try to be more about the ethos of the brand.
There’s procès d’intention towards Hedi. There’s no pushback from me on the fact that he has a personality, an identity, a design language. I have an issue when it becomes too much about him and so little about the brand as a whole.
I find the TikTok era of Celine totally abyssal. It worked commercially but it was trash. But when you look at his two last collections, much like his second and third collections for Celine: parfait.
But maybe I should ask you why don’t have the same indulgence for others then?
If we decide to rate everybody’s work by the standards some would want to apply for Hedi, everybody should be exempt of critics then…Or Is it a « who screams the loudest? » and then in that game, nobody can win against a Hedi fan (except maybe the Demna crowd).
Aren’t you doing the same with Hedi though? And does Blazy has a cult following? Out of all the designers alive today. There are only 3/4 designers that has had a cult like following in a very strong sometimes vicious way and it has never been Matthieu Blazy.
Lola you make me write allot again lol
Brand ethos i get but the reason many CD´s get hired is to bring some sort of creative friction /tension to the brand ethos like Galliano at Dior right amount is good to much we know how that ended final year of his dior.
Matthieu, JWA, PPP Michele are all doing same things what they did before ...sure Michele is less obvious Valentino because he was doing Valentino already at Gucci and every other brand under the rainbow .
Its a conversation and i don't think it ends at disagreeing because they are all still designing and things can change for better or worse and Hedi is not at Armani yet or Versace so we can't say how much he changed or not etc.
I think at many brands we have a big issue where new CD is more about them than the brand, i feel this more at Chanel where the brand is being pushed into a shape (formless empty shape) that its not.......... but time will tell and i find it interesting to follow even if i don't like the results.
I like to see if my predictions are wrong :-) as its been my job working with creative directors on re-branding etc its a mental exercise always for me when i am on the outside looking in.
I can and i think i did in past say parts that i don't like or find weak about Hedi vision is not perfect, but i do love his research and transformation and his curation and total vision that is not compromising, even when i don't find myself in ever part of that vision. Also why i can't stand lack of vision in the likes of Blazy making it up as he goes along... i know two people from his team i am not impressed by the thought process.
Youth culture of the likes of tik tok etc most of it is not for me so i cant feel much for it some of its funny some is trash absolutely that's always sing of times.
The last collections of Hedi was an evolution to classism and i'm sure whatever brand he goes to he will pick up again where he left off he did same at start of Celine and adjusted it to something that was working for celine project i am not mad at the mix of tik tok world with the end of those chic french collections.
I said blazy cult following as a provocation because its like every time one writes something positive or unbiased looking at actual facts about hedi´s work one is a fan or groupie etc
Even if Blazy gang does not have a official name yet, there is this tendency to write any possible criticism of his Chanel or even BV of as not worthy voice to even speak etc ..... i see it here but even more on Social media.
I don't see in this current chat vicious Hedi fans and i think by mentioned it every time the conversation starts on him is provoking the conversation to go into this camp of crazy fans against sane not into hedi folks ........ that was more my point.
i am happy to dissect any designer here this includes Hedi with pro and contra statements or facts or opinions or feelings
But maybe I should ask you why don’t have the same indulgence for others then? .....this part i did not get if you can explain i will be happy to answer as always
