S.S Daley S/S 2023 London

Okay hot take but out of all the LVMH prize winners I find his work weirdly charming lol.

Yes, it's sort of dorky but I like (most) of it! Although ... the rabbit ear headgear is veering into that creepy infantilization territory that I hate in menswear these days.
 
It’s in that quirky early-JW-Anderson territory. It’s not awful but there’s a reason why Anderson grew away from it.
 
Okay hot take but out of all the LVMH prize winners I find his work weirdly charming lol.

Yes, it's sort of dorky but I like (most) of it! Although ... the rabbit ear headgear is veering into that creepy infantilization territory that I hate in menswear these days.
Honestly there is something about the bunny ears I like lol. And the dorkyness is kind of cute. But he definitely could benefit from a bit of a push into the adult direction. Idg why lately some designers think Caravaggio-esque f*ggotry = queer liberation. It really borders on the line of pedo liberation. I don't know if it's just confusion or what but you can be inspired and excited by youth without being a pervert.
 
Honestly there is something about the bunny ears I like lol. And the dorkyness is kind of cute. But he definitely could benefit from a bit of a push into the adult direction. Idg why lately some designers think Caravaggio-esque f*ggotry = queer liberation. It really borders on the line of pedo liberation. I don't know if it's just confusion or what but you can be inspired and excited by youth without being a pervert.
That's the issue I have most modern "queer" brands. They always go down to that awkward schoolboy aesthetic. It's the male equivalent of that babydoll dress revival every London and Copenhagen based label did in 2018-2019. Adults dressed as children creep me out.
 
There’s some great pieces and I really appreciate the prints in this. Even though they’re a bit twee, they’re done very well.

It is a little too infantile overall, and that infantilism is clear in the cut of pieces, limiting they’re styling opportunities. And I guess now that Palomo Spain has kind of faded a new designer of this style is set to take over.
 
There’s potential here…
The first look that I love, gave me a totally different feeling compared to the whole collection.
There’s something very mature and confident in the first look and the others looks in black whereas the rest of the collection gives me « Simone Rocha associate » vibe.
 
the tailoring seems to be good but overall it needs cohesion. however, it’s not a bad ‘start’.
 
I really love that coat with the bunny (3rd to last look)!!!! It's such a great statement piece!
 

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