His designs are so consistent, precise, and so tightly edited as a whole look for the most part, that works in dressing women beautifully, rather than have them need to adjust to his aesthetic, but still remain his vision of a certain woman. I really admire that of him. It's never desperate to scream a statement, and always glows with assurance.
The pleats are magnificent: Besides having a gorgeous metallic iridescence, they actually resemble metals as sleek and airy fabrics. And he takes that pleat and morphs it into Fortuny-esque organic pleats onto the upper body. Yet everything looks comfortable and never stiff. I don't think it's a flawless offering-- but, no designer ever is.
I'll take your word about the Karl traces, StoneSkipper. But, having remembered Karl's designs since the 1980s, his brand of fashion is always so forced, thoughtless and unrefined. Geometti's designs look thoughtful and disciplined and don't scream "fashion (victim)" to me-- unlike everything Karl designs. Designers are always being influenced by one another, and some are downright copycats, I don't feel Geometti's a copycat. Even copycats can get it right at some point: Tisci's entire direction for his menswear has been blatantly lifted from Gaultier's archive, down to the color-palette. But with the concentration of a tougher and more urban feel that's consistent in all his menswear collection than Gaultier had done, he's made it his own. And even the mother copycat of them all, Marc Jacobs, has managed to produce some stellar collections-- his S/S 2014 is one of the strongest and most directional ones, for me.