I still can’t get behind his Schiaparelli. It’s very marketable to the audience of now, but it’s all just so heavy handed and stiff. Yeah it’s lighter than seasons prior, but marginally so.
Main issue is how afraid he is of colour. He isn’t much of a colourist of course (we’ve seen his attempts), it’s just Schiaparelli has an archive that is so vibrant and taste challenging. Not just with the fabrics alone, but with her combinations. He’s just not very sensual or evocative.
Who am I to judge though. He’s there and I’m here. Just get sick of his ways of ornamenting the body rather than actually dressing it.
i really appreciate this comment for the highlighted: "his ways of
ornamenting to body rather than actually dressing it." ornamenting is an old trick to hiding a weak design or to make something cheap appear expensive. it's distracting the eye, while also appealing to taste, using the garment as a background to the accessory. thinking about his previous collections and the viral looks, they were all ornamental. if one was to remove the lion's head and beading, it's a basic dress underneath. ornamenting is not offensive, but within the context of couture, it reveals a juvenile and undeserved place as a HC designer. harsh, but true.
on one hand, it's a gift to be able to master the piping, fondant, sprinkles, than the foundation of it all - the cake itself. but the memorable gift, the true talent is the construction and taste. in HC, we want it all and one needs an aptitude for it all. i admit, i like ornaments and embellishments - nothing wrong with it - but it's not the basis or total substance of a garment, a look. ornamentng pulls you in, but what keeps you interested and engage is what's underneath. daniel is bedazzled bargain jeans falling a part after the third wear.
i can't help but think about galliano's finale MMA HC collection - despite the ornamentation, you could see the complexity and thoughtfulness going into each look. daniel doesn't have that level of concern or insight. i like this season, but it's still vapid.