Sibylla For Capucci

[Lena]

gallery presentation for one of the most talked about collections of the season.
Following the Berhard Willhelm stand, legendary Spanish designer Sibylla is back designing an amazing collection for Capucci. True craftmanship and amazing grace.

Just a few pictures here, please post if you turn up with more, and a review by fwd

Paris July 9, 2003 - "I don't do normal," smiled Franco Bruccoleri, the ebullient, high-energy Italian man-about-town and brains behind the re-launch of Capucci, at the amusing bash to debut the label's new eveningwear.

Several hundred stylists and editors, plus actresses Lou Doillon and Rossy De Palma and supermodel Audrey Marnay packed a large airy gallery in the Marais to see the evening looks designed by Sybilla, the Spanish designer Bruccoleri lured out of retirement to design the collection.

And Bruccoleri revealed to FWD that the house's future plans include a runway show next year. Its location: New York. "I think then we should be ready to take a good bite out of the Big Apple," laughed the experienced fashion player, who acquired the Capucci label two years ago.

In lieu of a runway show Wednesday in Paris, the Capucci event featured cool statues by Francois Berthoud, chamber music by a foursome hidden in a post-modern manner behind a screen and Sybilla's inventive updates on looks by Capucci.

Roberto Capucci, the boy wonder of Roman fashion, was famed for his "fabric sculptures," clothing with an almost architectural form that he presented in Rome's former Alta Moda season.

Setting this latest presentation in a gallery made sense, seeing as so much of Capucci's work ended up in museums. Sybilla's silk-lined designs are also highly wearable, albeit very arty, from the rectangular-shaped hems of silk dresses with multi-ribbed shoulders to the Grecian goddess columns with elongated collars. Her most brilliant look was a chiffon bustier done in black silk over rubberized paper, ideal for a medieval cartoon superhero.

The designer's most audacious idea was a coppery silk column with a necklace made of glass Murano baubles, thousands of which made up a giant Berthoud hanging suspended from the gallery's ceiling. The artist also created a massive Achimboldi-style face on a large table composed of multi-colored macaroons from Laduree.

"When I quit I swore I'd never come back unless I had fun. Well, with Franco everything is amusing," explained Sybilla, who met the retired Capucci in Rome earlier this year.

Capucci has already landed a dozen US clients, including Barneys, Alan Bilzerian in Boston and Maxfield in Los Angeles, for its ready-to-wear collection done by Bernard Wilhelm, which debuted in February in Milan.

 

[Lena]

the talented designer

 

[ignitioned32]

Love it! Gorgeous, but I need more pictures to fully judge the collection!

 

[HBoogie]

Wow. I wanna see more!

 

[LolitaLuxe]

the hot little black and red numbers!! the baubles ......
more more!

thanks lena

 

[Spacemiu]

I LOVE IT

thanks lena!

I love the rufflylooking red top

 

[Astrid21]

That last coat w/the Nehru collar. I love the space it was showed in.

Thanks for the pics, Lena.

 

[Meg]

love the last coat, love the baubles on the dress, hate the fabric the top dress was made out of. it reminds me of something but i can't remember what...

 

[Acid]

i love the gold coat.......it looks very a/w2000 gucci

im not so keen on the rest though

 

[ignitioned32]

The Spanish designer Sybilla is the latest to present a ready-to-wear collection for the Italian house of Capucci - and the choice was serendipitous. "Capucci did a lot of research - and that is what I do, too," said the reclusive designer, whose artistic presentation set a molded neoprene dress and a tunic of tiny silken squares against the sculptures of François Berthoud. Rings of padding on a beige coat, a black dress with box seaming at the sides and a jacket woven in varying shades of gold reflected the sculptural Capucci heritage and showed a graceful, modernist sensibility.

Review for Sybilla for Capucci by Suzy Menkes.

 

[pfwoot]

OOOO! I like everything that's posted. The jacket would be better though in a different fabric that didn't look so much like apolstery.
The neck on that dress

 

[Belowen]

I like the coat as well - very wearable

 

[helena]

whats happened with capucci?

 

[Lena]

hmm good question helena,
i think sybilla is still with them

 

[faust]

hmm good question helena,
i think sybilla is still with them

Oh, dammit, so she's the one designing for Capucci for the past couple of years? And all this time I'm swooning at the clothes in Barneys thinking that BW has talent but choses to play games with his own collection. Oh, well, now EVERYTHING falls into place! Thanks for reviving the thread, Helena, I just learned something

 

[Scott]

I don't remember exactly how Roberto did this but I do think it was BW who actually did the main r-t-w collection for Capucci. I think there were two collections for r-t-w and a couture. I think Roberto wanted each line that satisfied a certain niche market for a younger,quirkier clientele and one that represented more sophisticated lady. I could be wrong but I know Sybilla was still there when Bernhard was working so it could be as such.

But you got to remember too,despite how awful his collections have become at his own,there were some design limitations at Capucci and he couldn't do some of things there he does at his own. It actually highlighted the talent that BW does indeed have.