Wednesday February 18, 2004
Sophia Kokosalaki: Gone are the days of twisty fabrics, spiderweb knits and impossibly transparent fabrics. Kokosalaki has taken on a more subtle, chic and refined mantle as her collection proved Tuesday night. The knits were almost weightless, draping across arms and torsos or gathered into a few narrow pleats across the front of loose-fitting dresses and turtleneck sweaters. Gossamer skirts were folded into small pleats, while coppery dresses hugged the body and draped downward from the waist. “I wanted to keep this collection wearable,” said Kokosalaki backstage after the show. “This season I saw a positive, optimistic woman, strong but not aggressive.” And who wouldn’t feel strong wearing a cropped vest lined with black fur and covered in flower-shaped metal buttons? Who wouldn’t walk with a certain swagger after tossing a shrunken sailor jacket over a lightweight knit dress?