Stefan Cooke S/S 2024 London

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[youthinasia]

Love look 28 although reminds me of Ann D S2009

 

[helmutnotdead]

There’s something a bit Balenciaga by NG but I find it stunning. I think they absolutely nailed the point of loving something from the past (Balenciaga FW 06, 08 and 2010) and making it work on your own universe because you clearly see the references but all the same time it’s undeniable that it’s very Stefan Cooke. Oh, these lazy *** b*tches from NY could never…
The first show of the season that makes me feel something: they really understand how to design clothes that are quite commercial yet very fashionable in a way that you don’t look like a dumb. I’d love to get some stuff from them.
Great great job (sadly they didn’t include any womenswear look but I’m super glad anyways).

 

[MulletProof]

This almost makes me feel too bad to point it out but hey, you thought it was good enough to make the cut lol.

The rest looks like a student moodboard and like every other NYFW show that pretends to challenge gender conventions but it really is just menswear while they make sure the compliance of womenswear with the traditional template is stronger than ever (daywear-eveningwear-skin-heels on repeat) so that it allows men to explore that. This looks as fetishistic as everything else, especially looking at that last picture and seeing what these two are wearing. Why so shy with the short skirts, guys..

 

[Cocteau Stone]

Took me a couple of viewings of this because there are things I like about it. It isn't overly ham with the CSM graduate conceptual heaviness and they show a great understanding of some gorgeous knit pieces and fabrics. The references are obvious, but at least they made it their own.

Something about this though errs into the really annoying side of JW Anderson or Daniel Lee. The high repetition of certain silhouettes to bulk out the collection is bit of a cheap trick when you know there are looks that just shouldn't be there or sit in a different collection. Some pieces even feel like design rejects from the current Burberry team...

 

[HazJW]

I'm all for different sizes of models but it's oddly refreshing to see a cast of tall, extremely skinny boys - it feels kinda cool and different, aspirational even.

(I may just be saying this because I used to f**k one of Cooke's go-to boys ... no comment ....)

 

[Nimsay]

those belted mens foam shirts are like breaking my brain. Theyre urgent but feel so wrong.

I hope they edit this really well. So many good ideas for retail. I like that griffon print.

 

[bennyboy]

Balenciaga vibe