The Business of Celebrities as Fashion Brand Ambassadors

[dsamg]

Yeah, she's more of a muse, isn't she? Difference being muses often don't get paid in cash, clothing certainly.

Nicolas have one in each of the three major markets for Vuitton. Doona fits his aesthetic like a glove and she's more believable than the other two, shame about Sense8 getting cancelled.

Also, there's Jared Leto and Tom Hiddleston for Gucci.

Yep definitely agree with that and I am still devastated about Sense8, she is amazing!

 

[sixtdaily]

Also, there's Jared Leto and Tom Hiddleston for Gucci.

And Dakota Johnson for Gucci too!

 

[Benn98]

And Dakota Johnson for Gucci too!

Was she ever in a campaign? I don't seem to recall.

 

[dodencebt]

Was she ever in a campaign? I don't seem to recall.

I believe there isn't an official connection between her and Gucci. When she was interviewed in Vogue US for the February issue this year she said:

“I’m terrible in crowds,” she says. “I was recently at the Gucci show in Milan because Alessandro [Michele, the brand’s designer] is a good friend, so I felt like I could just go, see what he was working on, and be like, I’m proud of you; call me later.

vogue.com

Perhaps it's not totally true that she goes only as a friend, i.e. she benefits in terms of wardrobe and trips, but it seems that they aren't paying her for promoting the brand.

 

[Benn98]

I believe there isn't an official connection between her and Gucci.

Perhaps it's not totally true that she goes only as a friend, i.e. she benefits in terms of wardrobe and trips, but it seems that they aren't paying her for promoting the brand.

Thought so as well, but she does seem to have an AWFUL lot of Gucci merchandise which she incorporates into her off-duty style. She may well pay for these goods, who knows.

 

[sixtdaily]

Was she ever in a campaign? I don't seem to recall.

She will be in the next fragrance campaign with Hari Nef and Petra Collins.

 

[Alexa1994]

Thanks for sharing

 

[Cicciolina]

I think there's a difference between celebrities under contract (Charlize at Dior, Alicia Vikander at LV) and friend of the brand (Jennifer Connelly at LV, Tilda Swinton with Haider Ackermann, Kirsten Dunst for Rodarte).

Contracted means obviously there's a financial transaction going on. Jennifer Lawrence walks out in Dior without fail for every major red carpet. Michelle Williams is always in LV. Selena Gomez will always be carrying a Coach bag from now on. etc. Outfits for red carpet events are organised. Usually these brands are fine if their celebrity doesn't wear their brand for certain events, but only if it's not a competing brand e.g. that's why Vikander could wear Mary Katrantzou, but she is going to be in more trouble if it were Chanel/Dior/Fendi/etc.

Under these arrangements brands have a celebrity for a number of days/hours for promotion, so if a magazine for example is shooting Alicia Vikander on LV time, they have to put her in LV - this would be negotiated ahead, hypothetically. If Alicia is booked through her agent, the magazine could shoot her in LV to be nice, but it's under no obligation to do so - though it would be the polite thing to do I imagine. Alicia would then decline to wear anything that LV would consider competition, like Chanel or Dior. But as mentioned in an above article, loaning would come into play here. Hence why then Alicia would be shot in more independent designers than the big guns.

Friend of the brand means that there's a personal friendship with the designer and/or mutual respect. OR the celebrity is willing to front it for free because it adds to their reputation and resume, like many of the random sociliates/it-girls who do Chanel. Chanel are known to pay less for their contracted celebrities anyway, because they can, though this may change now that Dior is going after their list. I would doubt that Jennifer Connelly is being paid by LV, or at least, not a substantial amount because it means more to her than it does to LV as a corporate for Jennifer to be wearing their clothes. And Haider Ackermann would not have the budget to pay Tilda.

 

[fashionista-ta]

Interesting that you brought up Tilda Swinton, Benn98. I think it should be mentioned that even though it appears there is no official contract between her and Haider Ackermann, she wears his designs religiously. She also wears quite a lot of Chanel. The rest of the designers she sports seem to be fewer and worn far between.

She used to wear Lanvin as well ... and lately she's been wearing Schiaparelli, right? She also wore some Galliano designs not long ago.

 

[Benn98]

Beauty’s Most In-Demand Stars

Celebrities are making a statement in the beauty world this fall with fragrance campaigns, collaborations and sought-after brand launches.

By Layla Ilchi on July 27, 2017

From Millennial re-brands to big name partnerships and edible face masks to highly anticipated cosmetics launches, A-list celebrities are bringing their star power and social media influence to the beauty world. Here, a list of celebrities making news this fall.

1. Rihanna

What: Fenty Beauty by Rihanna

When: September 2017

Rihanna is known for making a statement on the red carpet, but now the singer is preparing to make waves in the beauty world with the launch of her own cosmetics line, Fenty Beauty by Rihanna, on Sept. 8. Little information has been shared about the brand since the singer signed a deal with Kendo in April 2016; however, she hinted at releasing a holographic lip product at her Fenty x Puma spring runway show.

2. Kim Kardashian West

What: KKW Beauty and fragrance line

When: Fall 2017

Following in her sister Kylie’s footsteps, Kim Kardashian caused a social media frenzy when she launched her own cosmetics line, KKW Beauty, in June with her Crème Contour & Highlight Kit. Selling out upon launch, the brand rang up $14.4 million in sales, according to industry sources, and sales will surely increase when her 101 million Instagram followers get a look at the Powder Contour & Highlight kit she’s adding to the product lineup in August. In addition to her cosmetics line, Kardashian has revealed she’s creating a fragrance collection without a licensing deal this fall. Little information is currently available; however, industry sources have said the collection will include four to five fragrances launched over a period of a few months and in limited quantity.

3. Madonna

What: MDNA Skin

When: September 2017

Ever wondered how Madonna has such preternaturally youthful skin? The answer could lie in MDNA Skin, the 58-year-old singer and actress’ luxury skin-care line, which launched in Japan in 2014. The Tuscan-inspired line will now launch Stateside this September with six stockkeeping units infused with natural ingredients, like mineral water, fango and olive oil from Montecatini Terme. The hero product, which Madonna personally vouched for on her Instagram, is the Rejuvenator Set, a chrome clay mask that comes with a dual-headed device that magnetically removes the mask on one end and massages the excess product into the skin on the other. Prices range from $50 to $600.

4. Victoria Beckham

When: September 2017

Estée Lauder is betting big on Victoria Beckham. After a successful launch for the first collaboration last September, Victoria Beckham Estée Lauder is releasing a second iteration of the collection, this time twice the size, with new products like Skin Perfecting Powder, Cheek Crème and a $700 Trousse de Maquillage: Noir Makeup Kit, a leather makeup case with six products. The collection will also expand its reach: global distribution will almost triple to 1,200 doors and the line will be available on Net-a-porter, sephora.com and in select Sephora stores in the U.S., Europe, the Middle East, Africa and the Asia-Pacific region. Industry sources estimate that sales could reach $30 million in retail.

5. Bella Hadid

What: Face of Bulgari Goldea The Roman Night

When: September 2017

Bella Hadid made her debut as the face of Bulgari’s Goldea The Roman Night when she descended Rome’s iconic Spanish Steps wearing the brand’s Serpenti Eyes on Me necklace and a vintage John Galliano gown in late May. According to the brand, Hadid, who was also named the face of Bulgari’s accessories in February, was chosen for the fragrance to attract a younger demographic to the brand and build loyalty across different categories. Industry sources project the fragrance could earn 30 million euros for its first year on the market.

6. James Franco

When: September 2017

Coach has tapped James Franco as the face of its first men’s fragrance, Coach for Men. The actor, who stars in the upcoming HBO Show, “The Deuce,” this September, was chosen to front the campaign because he embodies the references of American style that are used at Coach, according to Stuart Vevers, creative director of the brand. The men’s fragrance follows Coach’s first foray into fragrance in 2016 with the launch of the women’s scent, Coach Eau de Parfum, which earned $8 million in first-quarter sales.

7. Salma Hayek

What: Blend It Yourself for Juice Generation

When: July 2017

Salma Hayek has been blending beauty products her whole life thanks to her grandmother who would make beauty concoctions from kitchen leftovers. The actress, who already has a line of cosmetics called Nuance by Salma Hayek, is tapping into her family history with her latest wellness venture: Blend It Yourself for Juice Generation. The collection is a national delivery service that offers 12 smoothies, three açai bowls and three “Beauty Blends” that can be used in smoothies or as a topical skin-care mask. The blends are meant to stimulate collagen production, prevent sun damage and promote a radiant complexion, among other benefits.

8. Cindy Crawford

What: Rebranding Meaningful Beauty

When: August 2017

Cindy Crawford’s Meaningful Beauty brand is getting a Millennial makeover. The Guthy-Renker-owned brand, which was developed by Crawford in conjunction with cosmetic surgeon Jean-Louis Sebagh, is revealing a new look and four new products: a Youth Activating Melon Serum, Environmental Protecting Moisturizer Broad Spectrum SPF 30 Sunscreen, Intensive Triple Exfoliating Treatment and an Overnight Retinol Repairing Crème. The new products address issues like environmental pollution and infrared damage, and are designed to target a younger customer. Industry sources estimate the relaunch could reach $100 million in sales during its first year.

Source: WWD.com

 

[fashionista-ta]

^ I have to say that it makes no sense to me to include celebrities who are ... the faces of their own brands.

 

[CommanderTMugler]

Something that was brought up in the Jennifer Lawrence thread... she's a Dior ambassador... she just wore Versace to a big premiere.. would she be breaching her contract? What would be the "penalty" for doing so? Anybody have any more info on that?

I only remember a while ago Charlize Theron got sued by some watch company since she wore a Dior watch instead to some random event.

 

[Benn98]

Think Tank: Fixing the Red Carpet Diversity Issue

A regimented VIP system, run by a small cadre of publicists, too often leaves minorities out in the cold.

By Zadrian Smith on November 8, 2018

There has been a wave of progress since fashion activist and former model Bethann Hardison called out the fashion industry on its blatant lack of diversity in its most public space — the fashion show. Hardison, who was keeping tabs on the number of models of color being cast to parade the catwalks, personally penned letters to the top stalwarts of the fashion industry, outlining the issue and calling for change. Her bravery to speak on this topic subsequently led to her winning the CFDA Founder’s Award, but more importantly, it is thanks to Hardison that the default standard of beauty is now being challenged and changes are slowly being made.

But great progress on the celebrity red carpet is yet to be seen. There is a clear disconnect between progressive messages being conveyed on catwalks and advertising campaigns and what is being seen in real-life public moments with celebrities.

Having spent four years working at British Vogue, before the arrival of current editor in chief Edward Enninful, I had the misfortune to sit in on far too many meetings where options for models of color on covers were dismissed, because those covers didn’t sell as well as the Kate Moss, Kendall Jenner or Bella and Gigi Hadid covers. After leaving Vogue, a natural transition into celebrity styling revealed that the situation on this side of the industry was nearly identical. I discovered that public relations teams create an arbitrary list with a select pool of actors and actresses they want to dress and build relationships with over the course of the year. If a client is not on the list, then the chances of their stylist confirming a look are pretty much null, regardless of the calibre of the event or talent they possess.

A regimented VIP system is put in place for most luxury brands, creating almost impenetrable standards for minority VIPs to break through. With no one really holding them accountable for their biased decision-making, most brands have little incentive to revisit this system and challenge their own standards. It’s difficult for stylists to be vocal about this problem, as they fear ruining a relationship with the brand for their other clients. So, for the most part, this problem remains an issue that is being consistently swept under the carpet.

It’s important to acknowledge that a part of the issue VIP teams struggle with is a dearth of appropriate options to offer the ever-growing expanse of celebrities. A new challenge for celebrities in the age of social media is ensuring their public image aligns with designer names that put them in a members’ club of fashion innovators, which then hopefully leads to lucrative brand deals and campaigns.

After a fashion show of more than 100 looks, by the time the last model steps off the catwalk, more than half of those looks will have been either put on hold by brand ambassadors and friends of the house or confirmed for placement on the most important carpets each season, which include film festivals like Cannes and Venice, and the holy grail of global red carpets where every designer wants to see their designs — the Emmys, the Oscars, the legendary Met Gala and the Grammys.

In my work, I’ve built a diverse portfolio of clients and it is far more difficult for me to confirm looks from luxury designers for my minority clients. These clients are often the same age, winning notable industry awards, performing to sold-out audiences and breaking records at the box office. The differing factor is their race, size or gender, and they are left frustrated, wondering what blocks the sartorial access that their peers are allowed. The question is, then, “Do physical attributes usurp talent?”

At a recent dinner, a designer questioned why I wasn’t dressing my clients in his looks. He was shocked to hear that the resistance was coming from his own team. He was particularly interested in one of my clients and their work and immediately rectified the problem, so that their name was added to the list. This demonstrates that designers should try to be more actively involved in the VIP aspect of their brand.

The industry standard is such that design houses entrust this duty to a small team of VIP executives, who become the decision-makers for the brand when it comes to deciding which celebrities will be dressed. Having had the opportunity to personally meet a lot of the names working behind the scenes at fashion houses, I’ve noticed that very few decision-makers are members of marginalized communities in society. It seems that the approved lists of celebrities for a brand become a roll call that reflects their societal status. But what happens to the celebrities who find themselves on the outside of these individuals’ personal spectrum? What options for dressing are they left with?

The infrastructure of human resources across the fashion industry as a whole needs to ensure that representatives of varied backgrounds are employed on the staff, so that a multitude of perspectives around the boardroom guarantees that, where deserved, there’s a look for everyone.

If Hollywood has been quick to alleviate the concerns of many minority groups who accused the entertainment industry of being racist, misogynistic, and narrow-minded, the fashion industry is falling short of undertaking such efforts. The range of creative work being produced now is a mix of diverse narratives that reflect the multicultural world we live in, and it’s time the fashion industry, thought to be ahead of the curve on issues of this nature, took responsibility and caught up.

Zadrian Smith is a celebrity stylist and editor in chief of PETRIe, an annual, independent and global print and digital media platform.

WWD.com

 

[Lola701]

Great read! Thanks Benn98!
It's quite interesting...
I feel like the problem today is that celebrities are almost "chasing the contract".
The brand ambassador thing is weird in this case because IMO there's only one brand that does it well...

There are a lot of independent and respected designers who can dress those actresses and actors. But, it's maybe better to build a personal relationship with the designer or the brand before sending your stylist or waiting to be noticed for a contract.

But the problem is that, in order to build a relationship with the brand or a designer, you have to love or at least to have an interest for fashion. And to be honest, not all those actors have that. And when you add that and the diversity thing, it's even more complicated.

I wonder why Tracee hasn't signed a contract. She is the friend of house of 3 brands right now...

 

[Hchloe]

^ Because ageism. I was gonna say its because she's a TV star and there's a hierarchy, but its probably mostly to do with her age. Her co-star Yara Shahidi is a Chanel ambassador, but she's like 19. There's also Milly Bobby Brown and the GoT cast. So even when they do embrace TV Actors, they tend to be quite young. If Tracee was a hot 20- something year old she would've already had a contract by now with a top brand.

Are there any famous starlets who don't have a fashion endorsement deal at the moment? At the top of my head I can think of: Scarlet Johansson, Blake Lively, Emma Watson, Emily Blunt. Are they just not bothered? Sh*tty agents? Or is it because the top brands are too crowded?

 

[Lola701]

^ Because ageism. I was gonna say its because she's a TV star and there's a hierarchy, but its probably mostly to do with her age. Her co-star Yara Shahidi is a Chanel ambassador, but she's like 19. There's also Milly Bobby Brown and the GoT cast. So even when they do embrace TV Actors, they tend to be quite young. If Tracee was a hot 20- something year old she would've already had a contract by now with a top brand.

Are there any famous starlets who don't have a fashion endorsement deal at the moment? At the top of my head I can think of: Scarlet Johansson, Blake Lively, Emma Watson, Emily Blunt. Are they just not bothered? Sh*tty agents? Or is it because the top brands are too crowded?

But the age thing doesn't work for a brand like Chanel. Tilda became an ambassador after 50. Vanessa is now 45, Anna Mouglalis is 40. They have a lot of friends of the house that are older (a lot of actresses that are friends with Karl like Huppert or Bouchez).
I think that Tracee has now the status to become more than "a firend of the house". Valentino & MJ needs to wake-up.

Out of all you mentionned who don't have a fashion deal, the majority of them had it in the past. I think it's just difficult to maintain a status if at one point your roles or movies are not bankable enough. I can also think of Mila Kunis...

Scarlet was the face of Vuitton & D&G but she hasn't really gave us "fashion moments" or impactfull roles lately.
The same for Blake Lively. Her Chanel deal was like 7 years ago...She had GG then. Since then...Her career hasn't been the same even if she still has great relationship with the house and is friend with Christian Louboutin.

I think that Influencers, the success of TV series and all has changed the game.There are more people today who are willing to play the fashion game. And if as an actress, you're just there to get a check, someone will take your place...
And things have shifted. Before, brands needed celebrities but today, those celebrities needs the validation of a big fashion brand because when you have a multi-million contract, you can choose to do any role you want. You can lower your salary for more daring movies.

 

[octoberchild]

But the age thing doesn't work for a brand like Chanel. Tilda became an ambassador after 50. Vanessa is now 45, Anna Mouglalis is 40. They have a lot of friends of the house that are older (a lot of actresses that are friends with Karl like Huppert or Bouchez).
I think that Tracee has now the status to become more than "a firend of the house". Valentino & MJ needs to wake-up.

I think that Influencers, the success of TV series and all has changed the game.There are more people today who are willing to play the fashion game. And if as an actress, you're just there to get a check, someone will take your place...

And things have shifted. Before, brands needed celebrities but today, those celebrities needs the validation of a big fashion brand because when you have a multi-million contract, you can choose to do any role you want. You can lower your salary for more daring movies.

I know celebs before have used fashion houses to supplement earnings when doing more indie films but with the MeToo movement in Hollywood and discussions surrounding equal pay, I think actresses now have a renewed sense of energy around getting paid what they deserve. I think actresses who want to play the fashion game and brands still need each other equally, really.

But I guess where houses still have a degree of power is choosing who they want to be aligned with. And as it relates to Tracee, I don't think it's solely age, see your examples of older ambassadors for instance. I think there are other factors at play. Her race, for one (I hope this comment doesn't get deleted, for mentioning race ). But also her profile as a Hollywood actress. Does she have a relatively high profile, yes, high enough to be a fashion darling.

But since these houses also want to be associated with prestige, Tracee really doesn't have that. She's not starring in critically acclaimed indies during her Black-is breaks and has never starred in a critically acclaimed indie or movie period. Some of Tracee's (black actress) peers have accomplished much more than she has acting wise and they don't have ambassadorships either. So I just think it's a number of factors but one factor that we haven't discussed is Tracee not wanting an ambassadorship. Maybe she wants to be able to access everything all the houses have to offer. So that could be the biggest factor of all.

 

[Hchloe]

But the age thing doesn't work for a brand like Chanel. Tilda became an ambassador after 50. Vanessa is now 45, Anna Mouglalis is 40. They have a lot of friends of the house that are older (a lot of actresses that are friends with Karl like Huppert or Bouchez).
I think that Tracee has now the status to become more than "a firend of the house". Valentino & MJ needs to wake-up.

Out of all you mentionned who don't have a fashion deal, the majority of them had it in the past. I think it's just difficult to maintain a status if at one point your roles or movies are not bankable enough. I can also think of Mila Kunis...

Scarlet was the face of Vuitton & D&G but she hasn't really gave us "fashion moments" or impactfull roles lately.
The same for Blake Lively. Her Chanel deal was like 7 years ago...She had GG then. Since then...Her career hasn't been the same even if she still has great relationship with the house and is friend with Christian Louboutin.

I think that Influencers, the success of TV series and all has changed the game.There are more people today who are willing to play the fashion game. And if as an actress, you're just there to get a check, someone will take your place...
And things have shifted. Before, brands needed celebrities but today, those celebrities needs the validation of a big fashion brand because when you have a multi-million contract, you can choose to do any role you want. You can lower your salary for more daring movies.

Yeah, but all those women you listed are white. Like octoberchild said, there are a lot of factors at play here - race, age, prestige, the willingness to hustle and play the game.

But I totally agree about the influencers thing. A lot of them have a bigger following than most actors since that's literally their job. When you look at front rows for most fashion shows the majority of them are influencers lol. Also, for brands it's a lot cheaper to hire them than an A-list actor who's gonna demand millions.

 

[Benn98]

Millennials Don’t Want to Smell Like Celebs Anymore

The perfume industry has lagged behind skincare and cosmetics. To catch up, the mass market has to learn the tricks of the luxury trade.

By Andrea Felsted and Sarah Halzack
December 18, 2018, 7:00 AM GMT+2
Updated on December 18, 2018, 11:00 PM GMT+2

Buying a Britney Spears perfume gift set this Christmas? Didn’t think so.

That’s a problem for the mass fragrance market. Mid-priced ranges, including those branded with pop stars and actresses, are falling out of fashion in many developed markets. In contrast, luxury and personalized products are growing quickly. If they are to reinvigorate sluggish demand, companies such as Revlon and Coty Inc., which have mid-market brands in their portfolios, will also need to find ways for affordable scents to smell a little more expensive.

The $49.4 billion global perfume market has some ground to cover. Over the past few years, the need to get Instagram-ready drove a boom in color cosmetics, and more recently skincare. The trouble is, you can’t smell a selfie. Consequently, the 3 percent compound annual growth rate Euromonitor International forecasts for fragrance between 2017 and 2022 lags its forecasts for both color cosmetics and skincare.

You Can't Smell a Selfie
Perfume was left behind by the Instagram-driven make-up boom

But in the affordable segment consumers are choosing cheaper options such as Primark’s scent, which starts at 2 pounds ($2.53). Shoppers 35 and under want to smell like themselves, not everyone else, and that’s bad news for the many celebrity products that occupy the midrange. At the luxe end of the spectrum, consumers in the U.S., Europe and Asia — including young Chinese shoppers — want aspirational and unusual options.

Coty has responded by slimming down its portfolio of lower-priced labels since its acquisition two years ago of some of Procter & Gamble Co.’s beauty brands. It is now focused on its luxury lines, which includes the millennial-friendly Gucci Bloom and Tiffany & Co. These helped drive a 6 percent increase in like-for-like sales in its high-end division in the latest fiscal year. Estee Lauder has purchased artisan perfume house By Kilian, adding to its store of cult names including Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle and Le Labo, which offers in-store blending on demand to give customers the experience of buying something handcrafted.

Lauder is finding that customization is key to the strength of some of its luxury and artisanal brands. Anything that customers see as being “tailored to their needs, their taste, their sensitivity, is going to sell well,” said Fabrice Weber, Lauder’s head of high-end fragrances. The company’s Jo Malone stores offer scent-combining consultations so shoppers can develop a custom product, and a Tokyo location recently had an artist positioned near checkout to sketch cityscapes on boxes to create something one-of-a-kind.

Earlier this month, L’Oreal said the first investment by its new corporate venture capital fund is in Sillages Paris, a year-old company that lets customers select the ingredients for their blends online and choose the intensity. Algorithms suggest harmonious combinations recommended by perfumiers.

Scentsational

Both the luxury and mass markets have been turbocharged by Latin America's chunky and fast growing fragrance market
And there could be more deals to come — transactions in this space are a fraction of what they’ve been over the past few years in makeup and skincare.

Deborah Aitken, analyst at Bloomberg Intelligence, says companies that offer personalized fragrances and bottles, alongside those specializing in natural and organic products, could now be a fertile hunting ground.

If mid-market producers are to kickstart demand, they will need to find ways to incorporate these trends. That’s trickier at lower price points, because a scent created by a top perfumier typically costs thousands of dollars.

The global firms should be able to manage. Producers and retailers have done a good job of taking premium trends — such as contouring and Korean face masks — into the mass market. There are already some early promising signs, such as the bottle engraving service now offered by The Perfume Shop.

If the industry does not adapt, fragrance risks being left further behind, and not just at Christmas.

— With assistance by Elaine He

(Updates language in the second paragraph to clarify that Coty's business includes both luxury and non-luxury brands. Corrects sixth paragraph to show that Coty bought beauty brands from P&G. The two companies aren’t in a joint venture.)

Bloomberg.com

 

[SophiaVB]

Bloomberg.com

I feel like Kim Kardashian's fragrance line proves it's still possible; it just might be direct to consumer as is a lot of other "influencer" beauty products. I just don't think millennials are going to malls or Macy's-level retail stores to purchase products that are endorsed or are looking to these retailers for luxury products.