TAKE TWO? In the world of designers and corporate backers, sometimes it takes a comeback to get it right D or knowing when to bow out gracefully
Who Karl Lagerfeld Designer, K Denim The Inside Track After the 2006 closure of the Karl Lagerfeld contemporary line by parent company Tommy Hilfiger Corp. came the launch of K Denim. This will be a lifestyle brand: knitwear, trousers, dresses, blazers and outerwear, in addition to jeans. Lagerfeld has hired Maurice Ohayon, from cult French denim label Notify, as executive creative director.
Who Martine Sitbon Designer, Rue du Mail The Inside Track Two years ago, Sitbon closed her business after parting ways with South Korean company Shamzie, which still owns the rights to her name. With a new investor, Jimmy Chan, through a Hong Kong company called Semeiotics, the Parisian designer is launching a venture called Rue du Mail. The brand is understood to be an update of the progressive yet feminine signature line she had to abandon.
Who Jean Muir The Inside Track There will be no second coming for the Jean Muir label, a brand that served women of glamorous purity and effortlessness, like Judi Dench and Lauren Bacall. Muir died in 1995 and despite attempts by her husband, Harry Leuckert, and the design team to keep the label alive in the past decade, the house will pass on this year.
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CREATIVES The changing of the guards in ateliers that could make profits soar or plummet
Who: Damiano Biella Creative director, Escada The Inside Track Biella is a seasoned designer with years of experience at Celine, Gucci, Carolina Herrera and, most recently, three years as design director for Valentino, where he was also in charge of ad campaigns and retail presentations. Rumour had it he would take over for Valentino himself once the Roman retires, but instead he has taken the reins at Escada. Only 35, Biella has the youth to bring some feminine sparkle into a brand known mostly for its power dressing muse.
Who David Chu Creative director, Tumi The Inside Track Get ready for proper handbags and accessories from luggage specialist Tumi now that Chu is in charge. Chu, who founded Nautica and sold it for $104m 20 years later, has recently launched DC Design International specialising in men's wear manufacturing. That leaves his attention wide open for the women's side.
Who Bella Freud Designer, Biba The Inside Track Much hype has surrounded the restoration of the iconic 1960s youth fashion label Biba. CEO Michael Pearce tapped Freud last year - though a separate accessories collections was launched the previous year. On paper, a marriage between a label linked with swinging England and a 1990s designer famed for her eccentric references to Brit culture seemed too good to be true, but the first collection proved merely a literal homage to the era. Although rediscovering a long dormant brand's archive is essential, Freud must find a truly modern take on Biba - and fast.
Who Dai Fujiwara Design director, Issey Miyake The Inside Track Eight years since Issey Miyake stepped down from his brand, the protégé-mentor model in Japan of promoting underling designers to head their own signature label under the mentor's umbrella remains strong. Former designer Naoki Takizawa's work for Miyake will be swapped for that of 39-year-old Fujiwara, who started at the group designing for the A-POC line, while Takizawa will be given his own namesake brand this year. Fujiwara moves up at a time when the many lines (Pleats Please, A-POC, Issey Miyake) will be integrated into a more cohesive brand identity. His debut this month in Paris will include both men's and women's wear.
Who Derek Lam Creative director, Tod's The Inside Track From designer of a capsule ready-to-wear collaboration sold only at Tod's accessory boutiques, New York-designer Lam has been appointed head of creative for the growing apparel range and will soon oversee Tod's core leather accessories, too, while also continuing at his own eponymous brand. Foregoing a signature collection after graduation, Lam spent eight years at Michael Kors and had stints at Geoffrey Beene and a mid-market Asian retail brand before debuting at New York Fashion Week in 2004. Tod's CEO, Diego Della Valle, and Lam are said to be moving slowly to solidify a single direction for the brand while keeping traditional craftsmanship a cornerstone of the business. Don't expect clothing to overshadow the bags and shoes anytime soon.
Who Paolo Melin Anderson Chief designer, Chloe The Inside Track If Chloe CEO Ralph Toledano's magic touch is still as golden as it was when he chose Phoebe Philo for Chloe at the turn of the millennium or Stella McCartney before that, his choice of Anderson should prove a good one. Apart from headhunters, Anderson is an unknown in fashion circles as he has been toiling behind the scenes under Consuelo Castiglione's gaze at Marni. But, as when Toledano picked Alber Elbaz from obscurity for Guy Laroche before he achieved dizzying success later at Lanvin, the right unknown can find grand stardom in the right house. Still, the Swede has his work cut out for him given the impressive sales trajectory left behind by Philo when she resigned last year, and Toledano's plans to grow the brand to billion dollar revenues.
Who Isabel Toledo Creative director, Anne Klein (designer collection) The Inside Track The sleeping giant of US classics, Anne Klein looks to be in for an awakening with the appointment of downtown darling Isabel Toledo at the brand's high-end collection. Toledo has been on and off the runways since the late 1980s, but many dedicated New York critics consider her talent to have been underestimated. She has never had a big commercial presence with her own line, but her combination of sharp, fluid lines and richly romantic details could be the perfect equation to revamp Anne Klein's dowdy brand image. Toledo will oversee advertising and product placement of the upscale line and elevate the brand with her rigorous designs.
Who Giles Deacon Creative director, Daks The Inside Track Daks began its venture into women's wear two years ago by hiring Tiziano Mazzilli and Louise Michielsens, from the wild, over-the-top London shop and label Voyage. Their women's range strutted through Milan with little notice. Daks boss Bruno Massa has now recruited Deacon, last year's British Designer of the Year and a media darling. The ex-head designer for Bottega Veneta in Milan, Deacon's profile and mature, luxurious sensibilities are intended to bring Daks, currently big in Asia, international brand recognition on a par with Burberry, Pringle and Aquascutum.
