The NY Times : My Invitation Isn't in the Mail by Cathy Horyn

[MJCouture]

She makes an amazing point. Could you imagine if there were no film or art reviews? Reviews, positive and negative alike, are an essential part of the creative process. Work that is only praised essentially cancels its self out. At the same time, as much as the internet means that it is pointless to ban someone because they can see and review your collection regardless, it also makes the reviewing a little moot as well. We are all here on TFS discussing and deciding what we think about collections on our own, with or without the (often self-consciously obnoxious) reviews of Ms. Horyn. At the end though, it just makes the designers who ban look like nasty egomaniacs.

 

[tortoisie]

Well...

First of all, Armani shows are not worth going to anyway. They are so unbelievably boring!

Second of all, I agree with you guys. I would prefer to read Cathy's critical comments than something that some journalists wrote just because s/he wants to get free ticket to a designer's show or free clothes! Cathy's insights are always extremely thoughtful; and to me, that's a very valuable element.

Cathy all the way!

 

[Madhuri]

I think Armani may have a point in that if a certain writer has nothing positive to say about your collection season after season then it's possible that writer doesn't like your design aesthetic and never will. A writer who is biased towards avant garde designs may never like a Calvin Klein so there is no point in putting that writer front row for a guaranteed bad review.

 

[LostInNJ]

^^ I can see your point there, however, that is what I think makes a good journalist/critc...the ability to look beyond what you personally like. I think Cathy does this very well.

 

[LostInNJ]

I find journalists esp for critiques aren't always necessary anyway
I only read what they say if they have something useful and interesting to say
But
as an example, it's interesting how many people base what new film they want to watch next just on reviews they read in the newspaper or how many stars it got from some "famous" magazine

My brother is like this

I think the difference is that, for one, you have to pay to see a movie and you can't see it all at once or skip through what you don't care to see, and with the shows, you can see the entire thing online, and decide instantly whether or not you like something. I find some of the reviews to be stimulating, but most of the time, I just look at it as, I like that and I hate that!

 

[mishahoi]

I think Armani may have a point in that if a certain writer has nothing positive to say about your collection season after season then it's possible that writer doesn't like your design aesthetic and never will. A writer who is biased towards avant garde designs may never like a Calvin Klein so there is no point in putting that writer front row for a guaranteed bad review.

touche. and even as a fashion journalist myself, I agree with this. however, the *way* that Armani excluded her made it seem like he was a child throwing a hissy fit. and unfortunately with the proliferation of information on the show found immediately on the internet, there really is no call for such behaviour.

What he SHOULD have done was say something to the effect of "I have a hard time inviting you to my show because it seems I am not to your taste as of late, but I appreciate what you have done for the reputation of the house in the past. I hope this time that you may find some designs that will suit the good side of your writing pen" etc . beat her at her own game, if you will

 

[KindlyCuddly]

I don't see anything childish in what Cathy has disclosed of the letter. He flat out states he didn't approve of the comments she made about his family and she was always critical of the collection...so why should her space to his event if he doesn't want her there? She doesn't need to be in attendance to critique the clothing. I also wonder why she considers herself "banned" when "not invited" would be a better term. It's almost as though she considers it a right to attend his show by virtue of her esteem when obviously that isn't the case.

 

[SHSH]

In my opinion I think fashion is a creative art form is in itself it is highly subjective and as such everyone holds different opinions and that is the beauty of it, I think Armani has the full right to ban or not invite who he chooses but it reveals a sense of insecurity. His work is in the public domain and as such he should understand that having opinions flattering or not are part of the creative process especially in such an industry as discerning as fashion.

I mean personally i love Armani for men but for women i am neutral on I do find it somewhat lacklustre, predictable but decent. She makes a brilliant point this is 2008, look at tfs, there is like a democratisation of fashion taking place for example after a show everyone will have a different opinion and thats is something Mr Armani will not be able to escape from, i have to admit i really do not like overly positive reviews style.com etc. i am actually interested in the opinions of other people whether we agree or not its refreshing!

 

[preciousrubies]

A designer being upset about a negative review is understandable. After all, they work hard and long to maintain their status in the fashion spectrum, and in such a competitive field, reading a bad review is probably frightening to some designers: what if this review has a strong impact on consumers? What if this is "the" review that is remembered? As quickly as some designers have risen to the top, they can fall just as quickly.

On the other hand, banning reporters kind of sends out a message that the designer is doubting themselves (at least, that is how I see it). I mean, if Mr. Armani was very content with his collections, than one review shouldn't be too harmful for him. However, banning her for an unfavorable review seems to suggest that Mr. Armani is not too pleased with how things have been going. Only allowing people who praise you into a show contradicts the fashion industry itself, doesn't it? Fashion is a competition and it's about the highs and lows and the fight for the top. If one is just letting their biggest fans into the show, then what is the excitement? Really, the public is not getting a true view on how you're doing, and there is nothing to encourage you to push further.

Maybe instead of taking the easy way out, couldn't Armani push a little further with their collections? Not always an easy thing to do, but being completely stubborn about the subject is a turn off. Keep Armani in Armani, but add something new, yes? Isn't that what fashion is all about?

 

[Alejandro]

Can you imagine what would happen to design if designers ONLY got positive feedback, no matter WHAT the collection looked like? How ridiculous, weeding out someone like this. It's laughable.

uh...doesn't that already happen?

 

[preciousrubies]

uh...doesn't that already happen?

Probably, but it turns fashion into a lie (or...more of a lie than it already is )

 

[Scott]

^yup. playing kissy face to elitists is such a sad reality of the fashion world.

kindly cuddly,she has a right because she just so happens to work for the biggest publication in the world in the NY Times. she is not only one of their most senior writers but she is also one of the most respected this side of suzy menkes.

and you know,cathy is NOT a partial writer. cathy can lament over comme des garcons' guerilla shop in berlin-which she has-,ruminate proficientally and romantically about many a belgian iconoclasts,and in turn contribute to a book on the life of bill blass,which she has also done. i respect that she can be critical of all sides of this world.

 

[mdankwah]

What designers actually need to do is to vist these blogs and websites to gauge the reaction of the general public. Perhpas Ms Horyn's review might be tame in some instances

 

[Spike413]

^ Seriously, if he thinks Cathy's harsh, he has no idea.

 

[KindlyCuddly]

kindly cuddly,she has a right because she just so happens to work for the biggest publication in the world in the NY Times. she is not only one of their most senior writers but she is also one of the most respected this side of suzy menkes.

That does not give her the right to space at a designer's event. Her influence may be important within the small realm of the fashion elite but her reviews are irrelevant to the everyday consumer...she writes on her taste, sometimes in a deliberately obtuse fashion and her relevance is decreasing everyday thanks to fashion blogs and websites like this one where everyone can hop on and "in" or "out" a collection within hours of it happening. Just my opinion...and I do read her writings so I'm not just speaking to speak.

 

[palais_de_tokyo]

within the small realm of the fashion elite but her reviews are irrelevant to the everyday consumer...

who attends a fashion show and is important to a larger circle than the fashion elite...

celebrities? alright, but that's marketing.

if you zone out the critics, it's a sign you change the concept of your defilee from a presentation to a simple marketing event - that's alright if you decide to do so, everyone as he or she pleases... but i think it makes his collections even less worth a discussion.
anyhow... armani is not about fashion, but about an "emporio" (haha) of branding anything you may sell at a higher price level.


so after reconsideration his move was honest, and nothing else. he does not need critics, because for armani (the company) it's not about creativity.

 

[Scott]

^now that you say,i will agree with that. it isn't creative.

 

[KindlyCuddly]

who attends a fashion show and is important to a larger circle than the fashion elite...

celebrities? alright, but that's marketing.

if you zone out the critics, it's a sign you change the concept of your defilee from a presentation to a simple marketing event - that's alright if you decide to do so, everyone as he or she pleases... but i think it makes his collections even less worth a discussion.
anyhow... armani is not about fashion, but about an "emporio" (haha) of branding anything you may sell at a higher price level.


so after reconsideration his move was honest, and nothing else. he does not need critics, because for armani (the company) it's not about creativity.

Beyond the fashion media there are also the buyers and retail execs who really make it happen for the consumer.
I don't find Horyn's "criticism" (if you can find it burried underneath her long-winded obtuse prose) to be particularly necessary, and perhaps Armani doesn't. If she never finds his work imaginative, why should he keep inviting her? He isn't shutting her out of a job, she can easily see the clothing online mere hours after they debut, she doesn't have to be in attendance when he presents. Horyn's writings also tend to go beyond the clothes and "analyzes" the show and it's attendees something Armani may not be keen to. She made comments about his family that he wasn't pleased with. He also invites other writers to see the collection, so he isn't shutting out criticism all together. Perhaps Horyn should be a bit more open to criticism herself and not just cast Armani's statements as him "banning" her from something she never had inherent admission to.

 

[Spike413]

^But that's the thing, why should a critic have to merely report on what the clothes look like.

The beauty of fashion is that anybody, regardless of what intternational papers they might work for, can analyze and delve into the meaning behind a collection. Isn't that more interesting to read than just "a fabulous cut pair of herringbone trousers paired with leather jacket looked particularly chic"

That gets kind of boring and isn't actually a critique.

If Armani is so sensitive about people analysing his collections and reading beyond the pretty shoes and dresses, then he's in the wrong business altogether. You'd think a 30-something year long career would've taught him that.

Here's the article about the couture show
http://www.nytimes.com/2008/01/24/fashion/shows/24COUTURE.html

Here's the blog entry
http://runway.blogs.nytimes.com/2008/01/22/chanel-icon-power/#more-174

Now, either the comments weren't published, or Armani is overreacting.....that's ultimately for us to decide.

 

[DuTTyRoCK112]

Oh come on, Armani is just living in the 80's when nobody challenged his designs. Well guess what, it's 2008 and everyone else has moved on.