The Row Resort 2025 Paris

[Kennnnn]

The Row is a mish-mash of the visual language perfected by designers like Jil Sander, Yohji Yamamoto, Martin Margiela, Donna Karan, Miuccia Prada, Issey Miyake and Helmut Lang.

These designers arrived at their designs through engagement with art, architecture, industrial design; or just through intimate experiences with politics, even war (in the case of the Japanese).

The Row copies the codes of these great designers, borrows from the personal style of people like Carolyn Bessette, Marina Rust, Christy Turlington, Jane Birkin and Tonne Goodman, and adapts all of this for a contemporary audience.

For me, The Row is cosplay. The clothes (and bags) are nice, but soulless. This is just my personal opinion, and I mean no offence - I respect others' love for the brand.

 

[penny609]

I also think banning phones is quite a good thing... But it's also gimmicky when it's just one brand doing it to create some extra buzz or something. And I don't really care about The Row, nothing wrong with it, just not my thingy.

But yeah, it used to be something else back then, when people attending the shows weren't taking pics all the time instead of actually watching and enjoying (or not, haha). I remember those days, when at the end of the day, at the end of the week also, you had to rely on your memories (and then wait for the professional pics to be available online, which were pretty slow to hit the screens compared to today's standards) to figure out what was really worth. Attending 3-5 shows a day, only the best (and sometimes the worst) stayed in your mind at bedtime.

 

[kasper!]

The Row is a mish-mash of the visual language perfected by designers like Jil Sander, Yohji Yamamoto, Martin Margiela, Donna Karan, Miuccia Prada, Issey Miyake and Helmut Lang.

These designers arrived at their designs through engagement with art, architecture, industrial design; or just through intimate experiences with politics, even war (in the case of the Japanese).

The Row copies the codes of these great designers, borrows from the personal style of people like Carolyn Bessette, Marina Rust, Christy Turlington, Jane Birkin and Tonne Goodman, and adapts all of this for a contemporary audience.

For me, The Row is cosplay. The clothes (and bags) are nice, but soulless. This is just my personal opinion, and I mean no offence - I respect others' love for the brand.

They not only copy but also buy out other's design lol. For some of the footwear styles they just buy from freelance designers in Tuscany.....If you put all the their shoes togetcher, then you will have a feeling they come from differnet brands. It is very common for insiders but still I think it's too lazy.

Technically Olsens are just merchandisers.

 

[Frederic01]

The Row is infinitely more sophisticated and luxurious than Hermès sorry.

For a start the distribution is so limited and secondly in terms of design and branding it just feels much more timeless and alluring.

Hermès is very démodé these days with those H slippers and Birkins and beach wear and babies toys etc etc. It feels cheap and nasty. You can buy these things at a B Grade airport. Where is the exclusivity?

The Row on the other hand has a laser sharp focus on clothes and leather goods. It’s as pure as you can get these days and something to admire.

 

[YohjiAddict]

Don’t dignify the “journalism” of that Style not com account, it’s such a mockery of fashion show coverage.

I like the phone-less gimmick, I love taking video of any random thing but I think it’s healthy to just focus on what’s in front of you, plus it shows respect towards the designer and other attendees.

 

[NoInvite]

Don’t dignify the “journalism” of that Style not com account, it’s such a mockery of fashion show coverage.

The Row: Ban phones
Also The Row: invites a guy that posts in Klein blue to his thousands of followers.

He’s such a tool to all these brands I can’t stand it and has become the go to account for the most basic fashion news. Some posts are press release in caps.

The Row to me will always be a brand that caters to people who were too young for Margiela for Hermès and can afford Phoebe during her era at Celine. It will fill that sense of nostalgia for them and feel "above" the everyone else in the room. If you go on LinkedIn and see the people on the team you will see that they are willing to hire anyone with a Celine on the resume.

I’d take Lemaire over this. It has more soul.

 

[philophile]

If you put all the their shoes togetcher, then you will have a feeling they come from differnet brands.

I'll admit that some of their 'hit' shoes are a modernized and updated version of Y2K shoes (which I personally appreciate), but their sock mesh flats that have been around several seasons and particularly their sock pumps last season are unlike anything I've ever seen. It's very clever design and minimalist at core with an elegance and ease to wear that I've yet to see in another brand. I'm willing to wait to be proven wrong and linked to an original.

 

[philophile]

I’d take Lemaire over this. It has more soul.

To me it's the opposite: I've never liked Lemaire because I've always found it soulless. I always browse his collections out of the need of educating myself and trying to appreciate something, but I've never seen anything that I truly like. Perhaps, both brands are for people with a different sensitivity and not really comparable.

 

[philophile]

The Row is a mish-mash of the visual language perfected by designers like Jil Sander, Yohji Yamamoto, Martin Margiela, Donna Karan, Miuccia Prada, Issey Miyake and Helmut Lang.

You can say this about any contemporary minimalist brand, including Phoebe Philo and (I like to believe) everybody knows this. But having influences is not a crime and it certainly doesn't take away the merits away from a creator, it's very common in the art world, particularly in the music world. There's rarely something that is truly original and I don't think anyone considers The Row to be groundbreaking or avant-garde or innovative. The appeal of their clothes, shoes, and bags is in the ease to wear.

 

[yslforever]

The Row is infinitely more sophisticated and luxurious than Hermès sorry.

For a start the distribution is so limited and secondly in terms of design and branding it just feels much more timeless and alluring.

Hermès is very démodé these days with those H slippers and Birkins and beach wear and babies toys etc etc. It feels cheap and nasty. You can buy these things at a B Grade airport. Where is the exclusivity?

The Row on the other hand has a laser sharp focus on clothes and leather goods. It’s as pure as you can get these days and something to admire.

I only buy menswear and shoes but I am always thoroughly impressed by their leathers, and indeed they are more sophisticated than Hermès.
I confess some friends and I took flights just to go shopping in their London store. We called beforehand, out of the blue and without previous relationship, and had the whole place for us for a while...
And I am not even a fan of the Row...

 

[philophile]

The Row to me will always be a brand that caters to people who were too young for Margiela for Hermès and can afford Phoebe during her era at Celine. It will fill that sense of nostalgia for them and feel "above" the everyone else in the room.

Respectfully, this 'can afford' type of comment I see sometimes on this forum is a major eyeroller and I'll keep the reasons why to myself. People don't need be able to afford something in order to appreciate it. Also, while I believe every The Row/Philo fan appreciates Margiela's Hermès (and even post-Margiela), they are still clothes created in a different era and for a different audience. Personally, I enjoy Hermès (I own a pair of shoes from them), but it's unlikely I will ever invest in a piece again, simply because it's too conservative, cold, and stern for my taste. People are attracted to contemporary minimalist brands, because they are youthful, playful, rebellious, and very modern.

 

[RaisinBoy]

I don´t mind them banning people from taking photos of the collection...anyone can imagine how is going to look, anyways! They are really predictable.

Hahahahhaha!! Exactly

 

[RaisinBoy]

With THAT sort of collection, i’d also ban it from promoting on any platform whatsoever lol

 

[philophile]

Still waiting for this collection to show up, but I'm confused, because I remember them already showing FW24 just last month and they always show their collections one season ahead of the calendar, so isn't this one supposed to be SS25 instead?

PS: I was looking at the Margiela for Hermès years archive and it's crazy how ahead of its time they are. Even the combinations of colors, styling ideas, the whole aesthetic overall have been crucial to today's fashion. I still prefer the whimsical, humorous touches and feminine sensibility of more contemporary female designers. In fact, I think that there are just a handful of male designers who are completely able to empathize with it (Haider Ackermann is one of them). Margiela and Lang are just too rigid and rationalist for me (with Lang being the lesser one). I appreciate so much when designers are inspired by art, architecture, sculpture, and music, yet it's not always relatable and it doesn't always translate in a visual language that we are all appealed to, even if the principles and ideas were cutting edge (and still are), I might still not feel overwhelmed enough to wear it.

 

[Creative]

The Row is infinitely more sophisticated and luxurious than Hermès sorry.

For a start the distribution is so limited and secondly in terms of design and branding it just feels much more timeless and alluring.

Hermès is very démodé these days with those H slippers and Birkins and beach wear and babies toys etc etc. It feels cheap and nasty. You can buy these things at a B Grade airport. Where is the exclusivity?

The Row on the other hand has a laser sharp focus on clothes and leather goods. It’s as pure as you can get these days and something to admire.

I totally agree about Hermès, it’s so cheap

 

[Kennnnn]

PS: I was looking at the Margiela for Hermès years archive and it's crazy how ahead of its time they are. Even the combinations of colors, styling ideas, the whole aesthetic overall have been crucial to today's fashion. I still prefer the whimsical, humorous touches and feminine sensibility of more contemporary female designers. In fact, I think that there are just a handful of male designers who are completely able to empathize with it (Haider Ackermann is one of them). Margiela and Lang are just too rigid and rationalist for me (with Lang being the lesser one). I appreciate so much when designers are inspired by art, architecture, sculpture, and music, yet it's not always relatable and it doesn't always translate in a visual language that we are all appealed to, even if the principles and ideas were cutting edge (and still are), I might still not feel overwhelmed enough to wear it.

I am fortunate enough to have been in my 20s during Margiela's Hermès years and I recall that his first collection landed like a bomb. It was a shock because it was not what people expected from him. I think it was also criticised very badly by editors. But I remember saving up just to buy some things - a pair of shoes, a leather pendant, a sweater; but mainly because I worshipped Margiela.

Over time, Hermès by Margiela has become almost mythological, and I think deservedly so. It was ahead of its time, very obstinate in the presentation, the silhouette, the cuts, the models he used. The clothes had stature and substance. They may not have had immediate visual appeal, but they have enduring allure.

I think perhaps these qualities separate the work of designers like Margiela from brands like The Row. But of course, only time will tell.

 

[philophile]

I am fortunate enough to have been in my 20s during Margiela's Hermès years and I recall that his first collection landed like a bomb. It was a shock because it was not what people expected from him. I think it was also criticised very badly by editors. But I remember saving up just to buy some things - a pair of shoes, a leather pendant, a sweater; but mainly because I worshipped Margiela.

Over time, Hermès by Margiela has become almost mythological, and I think deservedly so. It was ahead of its time, very obstinate in the presentation, the silhouette, the cuts, the models he used. The clothes had stature and substance. They may not have had immediate visual appeal, but they have enduring allure.

I think perhaps these qualities separate the work of designers like Margiela from brands like The Row. But of course, only time will tell.

I was in my early 20s when these came out and while I missed them, I am pretty sure I wouldn't have appreciated them as much as I did later on in my life (and boy did I wear cut copy versions of some of those Margiela x Hermès looks in the 2010s). I guess my taste in fashion wasn't mature enough as others during the late 90s/early 00s.

Oh and that allure will continue enduring through time, I'm certain of it. If anything, all of these contemporary brands owe to it. Margiela was a visionary, no doubt.

 

[Lorenzogi]

The Row is a mish-mash of the visual language perfected by designers like Jil Sander, Yohji Yamamoto, Martin Margiela, Donna Karan, Miuccia Prada, Issey Miyake and Helmut Lang.

These designers arrived at their designs through engagement with art, architecture, industrial design; or just through intimate experiences with politics, even war (in the case of the Japanese).

The Row copies the codes of these great designers, borrows from the personal style of people like Carolyn Bessette, Marina Rust, Christy Turlington, Jane Birkin and Tonne Goodman, and adapts all of this for a contemporary audience.

For me, The Row is cosplay. The clothes (and bags) are nice, but soulless. This is just my personal opinion, and I mean no offence - I respect others' love for the brand.

As Oscar Wilde said, "Most people are other people. Their thoughts are someone else's opinions, their lives a mimicry, their passions a quotation." 😁

 

[StylishCynic]

Still waiting for this collection to show up, but I'm confused, because I remember them already showing FW24 just last month and they always show their collections one season ahead of the calendar, so isn't this one supposed to be SS25 instead?

This question comes up in every single seasonal thread for The Row. The Row presents four womenswear collections a year: Fall, Winter, Spring, and Summer. The Row's seasons do not "translate" to the seasons as brands or the broader industry categorizes them (e.g. Fall does not equal Pre Fall). For simplicity's sake, they create spring clothes for the spring and winter clothes for winter.

This is The Row's Winter 2024 collection. Winter is their "heaviest" (warmest) season for ready to wear –hence, the fur. Winter collections arrive in stores in October (last year's launch was 3 October), and The Row always launches their collections themselves a few weeks before department stores to give their clients priority.

Fall 2024 was presented during the Spring Couture Week and arrives in stores in early July (last year's Fall collection launched on 7 July).

VOGUE Runway conforms the collections to their grouping of seasons: Resort, Spring Summer, Pre-Fall, Fall Winter. This is simply because The Row’s collections wouldn’t be able to be categorized on VOGUE Runway, and they need to be grouped / searchable by the software's standards.

 

[philophile]

This is The Row's Winter 2024 collection.

Yeah, I guessed so, I guess I just got confused with so many collections being released. I am always on top of all of their collections (including Resort and Pre-Fall), but somehow I missed this fact.