Tom Ford Brand For Sale *Update November 2022* Estée Lauder Agrees $2.8 Billion Deal

[Salvatore]

Lola, I was going to say Della Valle could be an interesting choice as he seems ambitious in a certain type of luxury market and seeing what he allows Roseberry to do, it could work. But I agree maybe they don’t have the capacity. Mayhoola is another interesting choice. Exor somehow doesn’t fit in my mind, but could perhaps see Richemont. I wonder if the Wertheimers would be interested or is that too outrageous ?

Whoever buys it needs to treat it how Arnault first looked at Dior which was his “baby” and deserved care.

 

[Deleted member 7575]

I wonder if the Wertheimers would be interested or is that too outrageous ?

They've taken interest in more outrageous things (Mizrahi, Araks) and actually, TF's beauty business would be a great compliment to Chanel's

 

[Salvatore]

They've taken interest in more outrageous things (Mizrahi, Araks) and actually, TF's beauty business would be a great compliment to Chanel's

Oh that’s interesting about Mizrahi and Araks. In that case, I think Tom Ford and the growth of it could be handled well. I think, in a way, the Tom Ford customer and the Chanel customer co-exist in the same portfolio without eating into each other and like you mentioned, Tom Ford’s beauty sector could prove very beneficial to Chanel.

 

[Deleted member 7575]

Tom Ford is a man who thinks highly of himself and of his brand. He created that brand and turned it into a force in less than 20 years. I highly doubt that he would go for Capri or PVH.
The foundation of his business are in Europe and specially in Italy. But also he needs to be part of a portfolio of brands that would be beneficial for his brand.

No brand in the portfolios of either Capri or PVH proves to me that they can handle the ambition of a brand like Tom Ford.

I really don’t see Puig or l’Oreal because Tom Ford beauty is the foundation of the whole house. Estée Lauder has been a historic partner since the beginning. Why would they let one of their competitors take over one of their biggest entity.

For me the best choices would be Exor (I think having Tom Ford and Christian Louboutin as a start for the foundation of a group is interesting) but maybe Tod’s. Diego Della Valle has some interesting brands from Roger Vivier to Schiaparelli but neither has the potential of Tom Ford.

As @THD96 Said, Mayhoola can be on that. Like Exor, they have the type of money and ambition that makes them a plausible competitor.

Zegna could have been a choice but I think the TF brand is maybe already too big for them to absorb. They acquired 85% of Thom Browne in 2018 for 500M and I don’t think they are in a shopping spree…Even if TF is a interesting brand for them to do what they failed to do with Agnona: enter the womenswear market in the strong way.

But, @Mutterlein , TF is American but the structure of the company is literally « European luxury brand ». Except for maybe Ralph Lauren, Rick Owens and Thom Browne, Tom Ford is the only American brand that has a credibility in the luxury market.
But if KERING and LVMH get on this, that would be the biggest plot twist ever…




I think it’s clear now that Armani would probably give the key of his company to his family.
I don’t think members of the Ford or De Sole family are involved in the company.

It’s sad but I feel like at some point they always have to sell. A lot of those fashion companies were founded by ambitious gay men or couples who didn’t have heirs or heiress and who ended up selling their businesses to families that will accumulate generational wealth. Armani and Dolce Gabbana are probably the only ones who are against selling but it’s often sad when those companies are sold to people who doesn’t respect the integrity of the founder ( we saw it when Prada bought Helmut Lang among others or what Renzo Rosso did to Margiela).

PVH was a joke

And if Donatella sold to Capri, after all the noise she made about protecting her brother's legacy, why wouldn't he?

Money talks.

But to @tricotineacetat 's point, the brand hasn't really been the bastion for innovation or very much a part of the cultural discussion lately. In fact, I'd say it's become a bit stale if not irrelevant.

 

[Deleted member 7575]

Oh that’s interesting about Mizrahi and Araks. In that case, I think Tom Ford and the growth of it could be handled well. I think, in a way, the Tom Ford customer and the Chanel customer co-exist in the same portfolio without eating into each other and like you mentioned, Tom Ford’s beauty sector could prove very beneficial to Chanel.

I actually think the Wertheimers are a GREAT idea.

And they're based in NYC.

 

[Lola701]

PVH was a joke

And if Donatella sold to Capri, after all the noise she made about protecting her brother's legacy, why wouldn't he?

Money talks.

But to @tricotineacetat 's point, the brand hasn't really been the bastion for innovation or very much a part of the cultural discussion lately. In fact, I'd say it's become a bit stale if not irrelevant.

For me Tom Ford the brand, is a bit like Alaia. I don’t expect him to dictate fashion again…Luckily for him, he manages to capture the trends of the moment, to be somehow worn by the hood celebrities and the Aura of the brand is there.

I don’t know if being part of the conversation today matters that much…We see it with Marc Jacobs. It’s a bubble that exist on social media in a way…

But maybe Tom himself wants his brand to be in the forefront of the conversation much like Versace…But it would be totally unnatural for him.

The potential sale of his brand also mean for me that somebody is going to continue the legacy…That will be an interesting discussion in the future.

 

[Deleted member 7575]

For me Tom Ford the brand, is a bit like Alaia. I don’t expect him to dictate fashion again…Luckily for him, he manages to capture the trends of the moment, to be somehow worn by the hood celebrities and the Aura of the brand is there.

I don’t know if being part of the conversation today matters that much…We see it with Marc Jacobs. It’s a bubble that exist on social media in a way…

But maybe Tom himself wants his brand to be in the forefront of the conversation much like Versace…But it would be totally unnatural for him.

The potential sale of his brand also mean for me that somebody is going to continue the legacy…That will be an interesting discussion in the future.

If I was going to spend several billion dollars on a designer business, you better believe that name would need to be part of the cultural conversation.

It's a very different scale/business than Alaia's. Not sure it's the best comparison.

In the case of Marc Jacobs, being engaging and culturallly relevant HAS mattered. His social media presence has been solely responsible for the rebirth of his business (which is now healthier than ever, I dont know who's buying it but someone is).

I'm not saying Tom needs to prance around in platform heels and dress up in Balenciaga. But I feel like the last time anyone was talking about him was when he had Beyonce and other celebrities walking his show and he banned the phones. How long ago was that?

 

[Sensation]

Cosmetics maker Estee Lauder Cos Inc is in talks to acquire luxury brand Tom Ford in what could be a $3 billion deal, the Wall Street Journal reported on Monday, citing people familiar with the matter.

Source: Reuters

 

[Lola701]

Source: Reuters

Sounds good and coherent to what I said earlier about them not wanting to let the cash-cow beauty part of the brand in the hands of competitors. But Tom will really have to groom people to handle the fashion operations…

I wasn’t sure they wanted to enter the luxury market. The name Tom Ford is an opportunity for them to build a little portfolio of interesting brands.

But 3 billions is a fair price… I guess he will change his design team once the deal is done.

 

[jeanclaude]

Hope this sale helps with the design factor. Tom Ford needs to revamp his image (no more basics please, bring us back your Gucci magic!!).

 

[Lola701]

Hope this sale helps with the design factor. Tom Ford needs to revamp his image (no more basics please, bring us back your Gucci magic!!).

I know it wasn’t well received at all but I wouldn’t mind him coming back to the type of old glamour of his first few RTW collections under his own name. Maybe it was too formal or too dressy but it was coherent to the menswear. Because pragmatism is fine but I think pre-collections are there for that.

I think that this acquisition will solidify his brand as a major thing in the fashion community. It send a signal and so he needs to pump up the machine, the creativity and the visibility of his clothes. Carine too needs to wake up from her lazy styling..

 

[jeanclaude]

I know it wasn’t well received at all but I wouldn’t mind him coming back to the type of old glamour of his first few RTW collections under his own name. Maybe it was too formal or too dressy but it was coherent to the menswear. Because pragmatism is fine but I think pre-collections are there for that.

I think that this acquisition will solidify his brand as a major thing in the fashion community. It send a signal and so he needs to pump up the machine, the creativity and the visibility of his clothes. Carine too needs to wake up from her lazy styling..

His first TF collections still had that Gucci/YSL magic. I remember seeing the pics from his first collection back in 2011 (specially the one with Stella Tennant looking so powerful) and feeling so excited like when he presented a new Gucci/YSL collection!

I miss his ultra sophisticated taste very much...and we all know Tom has an eye for that "desirability factor" that right now is so needed in fashion.

(vogue.com.tr)

 

[Deleted member 7575]

Source: Reuters

Makes sense to me.

Unfortunately, I don't think this bodes well for the clothes.

EL is buying it for the fragrance business, which they already partner with TF on. So they're protecting and expanding their cash cow. I don't think they care about the clothes. They'll license it out as soon as they can and Tom Ford will go the way of so many American brands: lingering in fashion hell.

Capri would be so much better.

 

[Lola701]

Makes sense to me.

Unfortunately, I don't think this bodes well for the clothes.

EL is buying it for the fragrance business, which they already partner with TF on. So they're protecting and expanding their cash cow. I don't think they care about the clothes. They'll license it out as soon as they can and Tom Ford will go the way of so many American brands: lingering in fashion hell.

Capri would be so much better.

I mean the whole production of his clothes is licenced already. It’s up to him to create some kind of foundation and long term partnerships with his historical partners.

Selling has a legacy value at this point of his career so it’s up to Tom at this point.

But EL is a guarantee for some sort of consistency in terms of quality all around at least. Business as usual…
I would have been more concerned if he sold to Capri tbh.

 

[Fulton St Critique]

I mean the whole production of his clothes is licenced already. It’s up to him to create some kind of foundation and long term partnerships with his historical partners.

Selling has a legacy value at this point of his career so it’s up to Tom at this point.

But EL is a guarantee for some sort of consistency in terms of quality all around at least. Business as usual…
I would have been more concerned if he sold to Capri tbh.

Great point. I wonder if and how long Ford will remain at his label given this sale- if it goes through. Could you see him retiring anytime soon? Clearly he will remain for sometime as to make sure he gets everything sorted out- from both a financial and creative POV- but I wonder if he has given any thought to the idea of hiring a successor? Though I doubt it would be up to him given the presence of a new board and such.

 

[Deleted member 7575]

I mean the whole production of his clothes is licenced already. It’s up to him to create some kind of foundation and long term partnerships with his historical partners.

Selling has a legacy value at this point of his career so it’s up to Tom at this point.

But EL is a guarantee for some sort of consistency in terms of quality all around at least. Business as usual…
I would have been more concerned if he sold to Capri tbh.

Really? I thought he operated his own studio with his own team?

You're saying his runway collection is licensed out?

 

[Deleted member 7575]

I mean the whole production of his clothes is licenced already. It’s up to him to create some kind of foundation and long term partnerships with his historical partners.

Selling has a legacy value at this point of his career so it’s up to Tom at this point.

But EL is a guarantee for some sort of consistency in terms of quality all around at least. Business as usual…
I would have been more concerned if he sold to Capri tbh.

What great apparel businesses does Este Lauder oversee?

Capri at least has infrastructure and know-how in apparel.

Este Lauder could just as soon shutter everything but the fragrance business and not even notice.

Best case scenario, the TF runway collection eeks along as a marketing expense.

 

[Deleted member 7575]

"Estee is especially interested in Tom Ford’s beauty business and could potentially look to license the brand’s apparel offerings elsewhere, the report said."

Estee Lauder in talks to acquire Tom Ford brand for $3B: report

 

[Lola701]

His first TF collections still had that Gucci/YSL magic. I remember seeing the pics from his first collection back in 2011 (specially the one with Stella Tennant looking so powerful) and feeling so excited like when he presented a new Gucci/YSL collection!

I miss his ultra sophisticated taste very much...and we all know Tom has an eye for that "desirability factor" that right now is so needed in fashion.

(vogue.com.tr)

A great collection! I got the ballerinas sandals and the printed suit worn by Amber. Perfect cut but weirdly the production was very tight for such an anticipated collection.

That collection, the FW2012 and the SS 2015 are my all time favorite from his own line.
But I like to buy something that feels special when I buy designer clothes and while I love Tom, the excitement has not be there lately. Ok there’s always a great pieces and the shows are fun but when you broke down the pieces it’s extremely well made but too simplistic compared to his earlier collections. The sequins collections was great and directional but the options were too casual for my taste…

Really? I thought he operated his own studio with his own team?

You're saying his runway collection is licensed out?

For his womenswear, he works with some factories he used to work with already at his time at Gucci/ YSL and he has his studios in LA and London (Peter Hawkings is still his number 2 and oversees the menswear) but for the rest of the business of his brand it’s all licensed: Marcollin for the eyewear, Zegna for the menswear, Lauder for the beauty. Given that the structure of house hasn’t changed in 17 years, I don’t know why they would change it.

And tbh, given that Zegna produces the menswear and they have Agnona, I wonder why they don’t produce all Tom Ford fashion all together. I only came across Agnona when Pilati was at the helm but the quality was flawless. They have the capacities to produce all the lines…

It’s a pity John Demsey is not part of EL anymore as he was very instrumental in the Tom Ford /Estee Lauder collaboration.

 

[Deleted member 7575]

A great collection! I got the ballerinas sandals and the printed suit worn by Amber. Perfect cut but weirdly the production was very tight for such an anticipated collection.

That collection, the FW2012 and the SS 2015 are my all time favorite from his own line.
But I like to buy something that feels special when I buy designer clothes and while I love Tom, the excitement has not be there lately. Ok there’s always a great pieces and the shows are fun but when you broke down the pieces it’s extremely well made but too simplistic compared to his earlier collections. The sequins collections was great and directional but the options were too casual for my taste…


For his womenswear, he works with some factories he used to work with already at his time at Gucci/ YSL and he has his studios in LA and London (Peter Hawkings is still his number 2 and oversees the menswear) but for the rest of the business of his brand it’s all licensed: Marcollin for the eyewear, Zegna for the menswear, Lauder for the beauty. Given that the structure of house hasn’t changed in 17 years, I don’t know why they would change it.

And tbh, given that Zegna produces the menswear and they have Agnona, I wonder why they don’t produce all Tom Ford fashion all together. I only came across Agnona when Pilati was at the helm but thality was flawless. They have the capacities to produce all the lines…

It’s a pity John Demsey is not part of EL anymore as he was very instrumental in the Tom Ford /Estee Lauder collaboration.

Licensing out production is not really the thing I'm so worried about. Zegna is a great partner and I'm sure Tom is still designing it with his own people. I just looked up their deal, a sale to EL makes more sense given that TF wasn't even a menswear business. But that contract will end and EL will be writing the new one. What's to stop them from switching it over to say PVH? I

As suggested in the NY Post article I posted above, I think EL is looking to unload more and more. What could possibly go wrong with a fashion house owned by a cosmetic giant that's licensed out everything?

Do I really have to ask?

I've worked in licensing, I've seen the damage it can do. There's a reason all the European brands pulled back on it in the 90's. They're even starting to pull their sunglasses businesses in-house. I feel like chicken little being extra about the falling sky. If I'm wrong, ok fine. But if this deal goes through, have another look at TF in ten years time and let's see if it's still the bastion of sleek American luxury and style.