Tom Ford Brand For Sale *Update November 2022* Estée Lauder Agrees $2.8 Billion Deal

[Deleted member 7575]

Also, I don't really care as I find TF to already be super cringe and cheesy.

 

[THD96]

If this deal with Estee means that Tom has more time and resources to focus on his RTW department then I fully support that. Tom is a savvy businessman, if he decided to go on with that deal he knows that Estee is only interesting in the beauty department. I'm curious about who will be interested in the RTW line.

Even with the fashion and beauty department is not in the group, it's still can work out just fine. Just like Saint Laurent and YSL beauty, it's can cause some confusion between people but they're still doing great separately.

If everything goes south and the brand will be licensed to death or Tom is forced to leave the company and the brand becomes something far beyond its former self then so be it. It's just one of the consequences when you make a deal with a conglomerate.

I hope after this deal Tom is still focused on design, as long as the collection still has the TF touch then I'm happy. I'm not expecting him to be as great as his Gucci/YSL days, and that's fine I accepted it, I no longer have this delusional dream of him reaching a glorious past anymore. It's time to move on.

 

[Phuel]

His first TF collections still had that Gucci/YSL magic. I remember seeing the pics from his first collection back in 2011 (specially the one with Stella Tennant looking so powerful) and feeling so excited like when he presented a new Gucci/YSL collection!

I miss his ultra sophisticated taste very much...and we all know Tom has an eye for that "desirability factor" that right now is so needed in fashion.

(vogue.com.tr)

What was exciting when it was known that Tom was designing again was that he was very hands-on with interviewing, and assembling new talents for his namesake debut. The impression was that it was more of an exclusive, artisanal but still bespoke direction. His designs from his very first offering under his namesake label was always directionally more luxe lifestyle than leading fashion with his Gucci and YSL. I wished he had kept to that more intimate, exclusive trajectory.

This is why I’m good with Tom just having creative control— even creative consultation, while a dedicated design team takes care of his brand (with another dedicated team— preferably Fabien/Meisel/Karl takes care of the branding). The menswear has always been so consistently confident and never about fashion anymore— which is why it works so well and it’s remained a personal fav. While the womenswear evolved to be wildly inconsistent— whether that’s directionless, desperate to keep up with the fashion times, or an attempt at being quirky, it all comes off as insecure branding. And it’s clear he’s become less and less interested in leading fashion with the all-out dedicated standard of his Gucci/YSL days. At this point in his career, I much prefer his filmmaking.

And except for the Terry Richardson contributions, the campaigns were never good under his own name. And for the last several years for his entire line, has cheapened and degraded the sheen off his label more than anything else he’s done. I wonder if he’s aware of such poor production— especially when compared to his Gucci and YSL days. Because, corny and deliberately tacky is never a choice when you’ve reached a certain discerning age in your life and career. Hopefully with the new management, at least the campaigns will possess some expansive smoulder again.

 

[Salvatore]

Hummm … not sure how I feel about this. On one hand, that’s a lot of money being exchanged for the brand, but on the other hand, at what cost ? It makes sense for EL to buy it considering the beauty side of Tom Ford is highly lucrative. But I don’t get the sense they are interested in taking the brand from a fashion house to a FASHION HOUSE, if that makes sense. I went back to look at that very first show of his and it was perfection. It was very American and its version of high society, but mostly it felt genuine and it was very desirable. Will EL direct the brand back towards that (which I think is the way to go because that’s going to make people covet the brand more) or is this about to a reduced to the current covetability as Bill Blass, Van Heusen, DKNY, or something ?

Somehow I don’t feel good about it.

 

[Lola701]

^^
The problem of the brand is that All the activities, except for womenswear, are run like a luxury house. But it doesn’t mean that Tom Ford menswear hasn’t evolved…It’s much more relaxed or casual in certain aspect than it was in the earlier days. It was super opulent back in the days.

I would say that one of Tom’s issue, compared to someone like Hedi for example, is that he listened to the critics. I genuinely believe that he has made a peace with his past. He knows his contribution to fashion and he has created a very successful brand in less than 29 years so it’s a major achievement.

One thing about Hedi, he doesn’t care about critics and he is going to do him. Commerce may influence his aesthetic, his designs (we see it with his TikTok fashion) but never critics. Tom had a bad critic for his third show and changed somehow his design approach…

The good thing is that the brand is exclusive enough to be able to flip the narrative and restructure itself from a creative POV. But he needs to shake up his team (i know someone from YSL joined his team last year) to refresh his vision. I’m tired of the 95/96 collections being the point of references for everything. His line up of bags needs to be edited and tbh, the position of Carine in the creative process needs to be re-evaluated. In order to move forward he needs to work with someone who can have a fresh eye on his work and push himself.

For the campaigns, Steven Klein does a fantastic job tbh. He adds that cinematic element needed for the brand. Maybe now there’s a need for more consistency between the beauty and fashion campaigns. The RTW campaigns shot by Klein were also fabulous.

@Phuel mentioned Fabien Baron. I would say more Thomas Lenthal. Tom worked for him for the branding at YSL and he is behind the infamous Tom Ford book. Maybe he needs to go back to that.
The Baron aesthetic can be too cold sometimes… When it comes to Meisel why not.

Selling will obviously make him think about his legacy. I’m sure he will choose a partner that will put as much effort in developing the fashion as the beauty. There are nice foundations, a huge potential for a brand this young doing those kind of numbers.

 

[Phuel]

^^^ Maybe it’s a designer midlife-crisis of some kind, but just when I had hoped he had made peace with his Gucci past— like he did with his glorious TF debut, he will occasionally relapse; like that rock groupie collection of the mid-2010s that looked and felt so awkward for the Tom Ford branding. It looked as true to the brand as one of those Sex And The City women doing “punk”…

At this point in his career and life, it would feel so much more genuine for the womenswear to ease more into the consistent confidence of the men’s, just with more classic American quiet opulent flourishes to finish out his brand of decadence. Unfortunate to admit— but nowadays, Tom’s sense of opulence will often than not end up campy and cheap (… and current-era Carine is sadly so lost and a major reason for the stale camp and cheapness of the brand. She will forever be highly revered for her extraordinary past and still influential visionary contributions to fashion. But her current coasting by her name is so creatively-bankrupt that other than clout and money, there’s not the remotest whiff of a spark in her any more.)

 

[Lola701]

^^^ Maybe it’s a designer midlife-crisis of some kind, but just when I had hoped he had made peace with his Gucci past— like he did with his glorious TF debut, he will occasionally relapse; like that rock groupie collection of the mid-2010s that looked and felt so awkward for the Tom Ford branding. It looked as true to the brand as one of those Sex And The City women doing “punk”…

At this point in his career and life, it would feel so much more genuine for the womenswear to ease more into the consistent confidence of the men’s, just with more classic American quiet opulent flourishes to finish out his brand of decadence. Unfortunate to admit— but nowadays, Tom’s sense of opulence will often than not end up campy and cheap (… and current-era Carine is sadly so lost and a major reason for the stale camp and cheapness of the brand. She will forever be highly revered for her extraordinary past and still influential visionary contributions to fashion. But her current coasting by her name is so creatively-bankrupt that other than clout and money, there’s not the remotest whiff of a spark in her any more.)

I loved that Rock groupie collection! The wide leg lamés jeans, the jacquard pantsuits. It was slightly vulgar but with the right tension. I wasn’t a fan of the shoes but they had a purpose. I think with his brand, he can embrace both his elegant and wild side. I prefer to hate a strong TF collection than to like a boring one…Because some of his best pieces comes from those strong collections. Even his FW2013…It was just too much but the craftsmanship was extraordinary. But then again when we talk about consistency, the campaign for the rock-chick collection was boring…

I don’t like when his work screams American Sportswear. I prefer when there are echoes of Couture.

Carine will always be great, but not with Tom at the same level as before.
I often talk about her but Carlyne is the perfect example. She doesn’t style Chanel, Versace or Alaia anymore. She does Moschino. Her formula has remained the same but it works because the context is different…
Carine can do the campaigns but her help is far from necessary in the studio. I mean we all know her tricks by now…

 

[Deleted member 7575]

Carine can do the campaigns but her help is far from necessary in the studio. I mean we all know her tricks by now…

Preach! She can go away as far as I am concerned. Homegirl is tired.

 

[Bernie Flood]

Could he maybe sold it to Apple or Amazon?! Jeff Bezos might be interested

 

[Deleted member 7575]

Could he maybe sold it to Apple or Amazon?! Jeff Bezos might be interested

So he can launch a diffusion line exclusive on Amazon? VIP sales for prime members?

 

[Bernie Flood]

So he can launch a diffusion line exclusive on Amazon? VIP sales for prime members?

Well that’s another idea.

it’s about time that this tech companies invest in fashion luxury houses

 

[Bernie Flood]

wonder if there’s a bidding war going on between LVMH and Kering over Tom Ford?

it should be

 

[Deleted member 7575]

Well that’s another idea.

it’s about time that this tech companies invest in fashion luxury houses

I was totally joking!

 

[Deleted member 7575]

wonder if there’s a bidding war going on between LVMH and Kering over Tom Ford?

it should be

Perhaps. But it looks like Estee Lauder has dug their claws into it and in doing so have underscored the fact that TF's greatest value is as a beauty and fragrance brand.

 

[Bernie Flood]

Perhaps. But it looks like Estee Lauder has dug their claws into it and in doing so have underscored the fact that TF's greatest value is as a beauty and fragrance brand.

That might be the first fashion brand of Estee Lauder.
But Armani and Armani Beauty, YSL and YSL Beuté are Separate entities. L’oreal owns the beauty brand.

 

[Benn98]

It does $645 million in revenue a year.

...and that's with modest advertising, very limited trunk shows, and hardly any international shows. In fact the Tom Ford brand pretty much sells on name alone. Certainly not the freshness of his designs.

I'm not shocked at the development. At some point the money had to start drying up. And although he's been able to survive as long as he did despite the fashion landscape changing so drastically, I don't think he'd be able to keep it up for too long before evolving into Alaia - respected, but obscure.

Whoever is buying will be getting a solid brand with a strong supporter base so yes I think he can ask for billions.

 

[Deleted member 7575]

...and that's with modest advertising, very limited trunk shows, and hardly any international shows. In fact the Tom Ford brand pretty much sells on name alone. Certainly not the freshness of his designs.

I'm not shocked at the development. At some point the money had to start drying up. And although he's been able to survive as long as he did despite the fashion landscape changing so drastically, I don't think he'd be able to keep it up for too long before evolving into Alaia - respected, but obscure.

Whoever is buying will be getting a solid brand with a strong supporter base so yes I think he can ask for billions.

But I think the bulk of that is fragrance and eyewear, for which they advertise A LOT.

 

[Lola701]

But I think the bulk of that is fragrance and eyewear, for which they advertise A LOT.

It’s a luxury business after all. The structure of the business has always been on eyewear and beauty.
The bulk of the top 5 luxury brands is on accessories and beauty.
But I wouldn’t be surprised that fashion makes up for 30% of the sales.

There are very few brands that have clothes as the driving department of their activities. And their place in the landscape of fashion as a driving force has no correlation.

I mean, the driving fashion houses Chanel and Dior are far from delivering strong design and far from driving trends and fashion conversations.

If Tom Ford has an advantage compare to Alaia is that the brand is still quite out there. Alaia was kind of reclusive with one shop around the world, a very exclusive distribution in the states.

Whoever buys the brand will buy for the potential of growth. The price Arnault paid for Fendi was way over what the brand was at that time. It took nearly a decade for Fendi to reach the billion. And the brand has been more important in the 2010’s than in the 00´s.

 

[Phuel]

^^^ The aspirational offerings of the brand’s mainline remains the main attraction. And that it has held it all together under only one premium line is such a rare blessing in these days of outlet merch plaguing every brand is another blessing. I have no stats to back up my observation other than years and years of following the brand and having an understanding of its customer base— although admittedly very limited, first hand. It's a brand that has become synonymous with the glamorous, ultra-luxe life, and a premium quality of material and construction investment and an air of exclusivity in its fashion— much like Loro Piana and Brunello Cucinelli, etc. However, its core customer base won’t be returning if Tom Ford transitions to the business model that will it turn into a brand like Michael Kors. But if the investors were smart, they’d figure a way to evolve the Tom Ford brand into what Ralph Lauren and Polo is today, or if they’re brilliant, how Calvin Klein was impeccably rebranded in the autumn of 1992 into high fashion relevance and legend, all the while elevating its consumer CK line into a cultural phenomenon for its second time.

I don’t spend a fortune on clothes— and definitely not a voracious shopper that buys 4-6 items a month (which is apparently how much even the average American shopper snatches up of fast-fashion…). The only Tom Ford items I picked up for S/S 2022 were 2 short-sleeved polo sweaters: They’re classic models and yet still stylized in their 1960s retro design that’s not commonly found in other brands. Although his sensibilities have developed into a more classic lifestyle aesthetic from his leading Gucci days, and far removed from faSHON (thank goodness), his signature designs still are unique in their subtlety to stand apart from the more traditional designs of classic luxury brands. I’m not the only one that appreciates this— and it’s what I believe has kept his label still standing, despite it no longer being fresh. There’s so much untapped potential, creatively and commercially, in the right hands.

 

[Deleted member 7575]

It’s a luxury business after all. The structure of the business has always been on eyewear and beauty.
The bulk of the top 5 luxury brands is on accessories and beauty.
But I wouldn’t be surprised that fashion makes up for 30% of the sales.

There are very few brands that have clothes as the driving department of their activities. And their place in the landscape of fashion as a driving force has no correlation.

I mean, the driving fashion houses Chanel and Dior are far from delivering strong design and far from driving trends and fashion conversations.

If Tom Ford has an advantage compare to Alaia is that the brand is still quite out there. Alaia was kind of reclusive with one shop around the world, a very exclusive distribution in the states.

Whoever buys the brand will buy for the potential of growth. The price Arnault paid for Fendi was way over what the brand was at that time. It took nearly a decade for Fendi to reach the billion. And the brand has been more important in the 2010’s than in the 00´s.

I'm not trying admonish or belittle the brand for its beauty business, just simply state the reality.

As far as I can tell from media reporting and Wikipedia, its Estee Lauder business does 1 billion annually in sales. Tom Ford the brand does 645 million annually in revenue.

Infer however you like how much the exact percentage of that revenue is from actual RTW but I feel like 30% is very generous.