Tom Ford F/W 2025.26 Paris

[Grets]

It's fine and all but I really don't think this is the right fit. Haider belongs at a more storied house where he can play more with references. 2-3 seasons in these sharp suits and cut out dresses are going to feel very stale very quickly. It also just feels too entry of a brand for him.

 

[TomBlanksFullFatMiuMiu]

it does lack the “sex” touch that is part of the Tom Ford vocabulary.

At first, I thought the same, but maybe the men are all wearing leather jockstraps underneath those suits, and the women have chilly, fridge-cold sterling silver buttplugs in their hairless bottoms beneath those silk gowns. The coldness of this presentation still makes me think of sex, but sex with objects or mechanics rather than human-to-human flesh connections ~ a bit Steven Klein-ish, so it remains within the realms of TF; but the days of proper hot men Noah Mills, Max Motta and Conrad Bloomfield are long gone.

 

[PDFSD]

The few parts that make it seem new or fresh now will make it look old and boring soon, if HA does not evolve and push himself out of his comfort zone.

I felt at times it still border on a dusty version of TF that even TF had while doing TOM FORD, what helped it was the intention to be more chic and not so pop.

Yet i think on red carpets and average TF client these will look modern enough for now.

And this is from a person that was not pro of HA going to TF.

Was a good start could have been worse.

It makes sense to have it in paris will elevate the brand more ala The Row , they should keep the show small going forward as well nurture it, treat it as a boutique niche brand but high in luxury and budgets.

 

[Cocteau Stone]

I like this. It leaves an impression but will admit that it does need a little more work. Might be those first collection woes and anxieties at play here.

Frankly the more European after-dark take is welcome to me. The WEHO/Beverly Hills of Fords last few years became a little tiring. There’s a Pilati and Elbaz like touch to this, particularly their YSL, which is welcoming.

That being said, a lot doesn’t work here. But maybe that’s as a collection…
I don’t like the coloured suits, but like the cut and think they belong in another collection. I’m not sure about the columns, but on their own they work. There’s some fine tuning that needs to happen (and can see Haider is figuring it out) to have a bit more synergy.

Maybe the muse needs to shift a little too. I like Tilda Swinton, but can he add another in his repertoire? His appointment already adds some much needed tension to Ford, but he needs to take that on himself to expand his take on the Ford universe.

All in all I think his appointment is exciting. It’s a somber and sober start, I think it just needs more time. We say it ourselves that it takes a couple of collections to really find a swing with things, but I also think we forget that too.

 

[susseinmcswanny]

Why doesn't anyone just have their own label anymore. I know the answer but WHY

 

[Yohji]

This is a bit like Galliano for Margiela - I don't even care if it doesn't resemble the brand, it's just nice to see Haider Ackermann making great clothes again.

 

[Fiercification]

A very, very cold collection and unfortunately quite a pretentious presentation. Moreover the casting didn't really seem to gel. Beyond Karen's dress, a clear reference to Tom's debut S/S 2011 outing, I can't find that much of TF's vocabulary in this. Just loads of suits for both him and her. Oh and some of Jacob K's lame styling tricks that he's used in so many of his editorials since at least 2019.

You know it's a boring show when all you can remember is Diva Law Roach looking like they've just come from a camping trip with a massive blanket under their fur in the front row .

 

[ecnerretneerg]

Haider’s use of color is quite genius, but a lot of it felt dated to me—mainly the first half, especially the leather pieces. Not my taste, but I see the vision. I’m sure we’ll see a lot of Tom Ford on the red carpet next award season.

 

[Kennnnn]

As Phuel mentioned earlier, above all I see the influence of Gucci spring 1998, which was a great collection - urban, modern and devoid of the 60s/70s references that Tom Ford brought to Gucci before.

I think this is fine. It's quite timeless, and the heavy use of tailoring is right for the Tom Ford brand. But i can't help but feel that we've seen what Haider Ackermann can do, and how evocative his clothes can be - I just didn't feel very much looking at this show.

 

[mepps]

He should have just designed this collection under his own name.
Nothing here is screaming Tom Ford. Some of ya'll are seeing what you wanna see.
Also, something about Haider annoys the f*** out of me.

 

[jeanclaude]

Generic clothes, there is nothing that stands out, nothing that lets you identify this as TF by HA.

The desirability factor was very important when TF was at his peak. Everything was attractive, everything catched your attention...and you were able to remember and crave all of it.

This is sex with a condom on. Haider needs to go bare!

 

[FashionFanatico]

It's very elegant, handsome and also a bit old-fashioned (in a good sense).
All 3 adjectives I would use to describe Tom Ford as a person. So it's a fit in a way.
And it felt strangely a bit American Psycho too, i leave this to your own interpretations here....

But the only really sexy thing was the hug between Haider and Tom at the end.
Such an overload of «Hot Alphamale Energy» lol

 

[JohannesL]

It is not a bad collection for his namesake label but it doesn't work for TF. I am disappointed probably because my expectations were too high. It is a bit sad to see the once hypersexual woman kind of blending into his androgynous female type. The problem with Haier for TF is his good taste doesn't allow him to be a bit tacky and vulgar.

 

[Malaya]

Oh I love this His color palettes are always divine, and this one's no exception.

What's up with the hair on the models though? They copied Prada FW22?

 

[FashionIsTheWorst]

Great collection, very YSL Stefano Pilati. Runway would've been 1000x better with different music. Something dark, vampy, or sexy, not this end of a depressing movie music. Visually though, stunning.

 

[FashionIsTheWorst]

The collection was pretty but not something I will remember in a week, Haider has already done this many times before.
The show was a tragedy though. They need to stop with the complicated runways. I hated the inconsistent pace. Some models almost bumped into each other.

The pacing while trying so hard to give opulence... against the god awful soundtrack was such a turn off.

 

[FashionIsTheWorst]

It is not a bad collection for his namesake label but it doesn't work for TF. I am disappointed probably because my expectations were too high. It is a bit sad to see the once hypersexual woman kind of blending into his androgynous female type. The problem with Haier for TF is his good taste doesn't allow him to be a bit tacky and vulgar.

But Haider can be edgy and rock and roll. I can't get over the sh*tty runway music.

 

[VogueDisciple93]

It’s very Stefano Pilati’s YSL but more serious.

The show dampened my opinion of the collection because it was incredibly somber and stiflingly pretentious. I’ve had emotional reactions to his shows before, yes I am crazy, but this show was cringy because the big emotion it was trying to propose did not match this largely commercial collection. It will be butt-clenchingly expensive and exquisitely luxurious - the red python coat is incredible! - but the concepts are all immediately sales floor ready so the moodiness seemed misplaced. No matter how beautifully made (and so much of this is!!!), a leather tee is just that no matter how much solemn intellectualism you want to use. If the models walked confidently with a soundtrack to match then this collection would have SHINED!

I still love it because it is high-octane-beautiful clothes made beautifully.

 

[brandon J pierre]

What would Tom Ford look like with cognitive emotion? well we just saw that.

The pacing was horrible other than that amazing show he's a extremely well trained suitor and dressmaker.
The super rich who are little bit bored of quiet luxury are going to love this. It's for sure going to be a sellout.
Hair makeup amazing. Menswear amazing women's wear very good.
He has a lot of room to grow and let's hope that he does but! He is very emotional and I hope he can pull out some fun for spring.
For me a person that loves Tom Ford very much I love Tom Ford Gucci I love Tom Ford YSL and I love Tom Ford main line. He is a brand that screams luxury but with a palpable amount of fun.
Haider’s and Tom Ford sex is going to be an issue because sex for these two men are two different things! This is an extremely sexual collection but sex with emotion behind it not necessarily love but maybe obsession and a little bit of sadness that comes with having amazing sex.

There are some people in the comment saying that it's a very European collection but for me it's extremely American, American codes Bill blass Halston old American money from a very different time. The heyday of Nan Kempnar, Lee radziwill, Diane von furstenberg , A time period where American was in fact number one.

My favorites

 

[brandon J pierre]

Amazing