Tom Ford F/W 2025.26 Paris

[Lola701]

That‘s an accurate observation but it also merits the question whether or not the house *needs* to remain a very formal dressing associated brand or if it makes sense to loosen up those codes a bit, as it moves on forward - While suiting is at the heart of Zegna‘s know-how, we have also seen Tom Ford that were more casual in spirit, maybe acknowledging the fact that less and less people (particularly men) dress in full-on suiting looks the way Tom Ford envisioned them, with ties, pocket square or cuff links.

What was great about Haider‘s Berluti was a balance between sportswear and laid-back formal wear elements that I hope he will bring in the future - Spring/summer should be a good place to try that out!

Yes. But it’s also what Tom did if I remember well in 2014. His menswear loosen up, he introduced sneakers, jeans and created a wardrobe that felt relevant to that aesthetic.

Unfortunately, he didn’t have the same trajectory in womenswear. It went a bit all over the place. There were fun and great collections but the vision was quite unfocused. One season it was rock and chuck and sexy and perfect (SS2015), then very formal almost old looking (SS2017), or fun again (SS2016), or tacky in the best way (FW2018) and then Glamour (SS2019).

The codes and the authority of Tom were there but as his womenswear never had the proper evolution, the proposition wasn’t as impactful.

Tom Ford the brand will always be about some kind of formality but I think it’s actually a good frame to then evolve into something more relaxed or more fashion.

I don’t expect Haider to put lace boxers on the runway or oversized sweatpants with a tye-dye silk caftan. Only Tom could get away with it.
But he will bring back Tom Ford to a more « active life ». It’s been a long time since it was leisure wear at Hollywood.

 

[tricotineacetat]

Yes. But it’s also what Tom did if I remember well in 2014. His menswear loosen up, he introduced sneakers, jeans and created a wardrobe that felt relevant to that aesthetic.

Unfortunately, he didn’t have the same trajectory in womenswear. It went a bit all over the place. There were fun and great collections but the vision was quite unfocused. One season it was rock and chuck and sexy and perfect (SS2015), then very formal almost old looking (SS2017), or fun again (SS2016), or tacky in the best way (FW2018) and then Glamour (SS2019).

The codes and the authority of Tom were there but as his womenswear never had the proper evolution, the proposition wasn’t as impactful.

Tom Ford the brand will always be about some kind of formality but I think it’s actually a good frame to then evolve into something more relaxed or more fashion.

I don’t expect Haider to put lace boxers on the runway or oversized sweatpants with a tye-dye silk caftan. Only Tom could get away with it.
But he will bring back Tom Ford to a more « active life ». It’s been a long time since it was leisure wear at Hollywood.

I agree, especially with a winter collection, it‘s good to emphasize the building blocks and I‘m almost certain what we saw on the runway was deliberately edited to bring that particular notion of formality with the suiting, rather than to show a 360 degree vision of a Tom Ford vestiaire, which was what Peter Hawkings attempted to do - Dressing his man and woman from the street to the resort and from business to night club. What Haider showed was much more cinematic with a narrative feel - You could imagine the characters on his runway in a Tom Ford film - So from my side that can count as a 'mission accomplished'.

The thing I am most curious about at this point is what else is there in the collection that wasn‘t shown on the runway - Knitwear, the shoes and accessories' line, the more casual options and separates that will certainly be in the showroom for buyers and press to see.

The best of Tom Ford to me balanced a sense of ease with elegance and I have no doubt that Haider has that in him, too!

 

[Phuel]

^^^ Merch will always exist on the retail space: Those sweatsuits, gross sneakers and animal-print intimatewear aren’t going away anytime soon, even with this much needed palette-cleanser showcase. Absolutely glad Haider avoided featuring bags (since none of the line’s bags were any good, frankly. Tom Ford bags is in such desperate need of an overhaul).

And so glad it’s not Tom x Terry dirty, smutty, bareback sex as fashion. When a label and both its designers are mature, it’s very cringe for it to be still pushing sex sex sex like they’ve still got something to prove. Haider reigning back to almost a minimalist austerity of fembots and their handlers, feels and looks so much stronger. It’s so cringe when middle-aged creatives are desperate to prove how virile and how sexy their aging brand still is. The untouchable cast looks 7 feet tall and seething with lethal, predatory sensuality, not sexuality. And thank goodness. Don't need to flaunt their sexuality: They will come to you. Just needed some furs, ponyskins, and some more croc skins.

 

[dieinmytabis]

Wonderful collection ... if you do not know who Tom Ford is

 

[BalkaniStaCouture]

It was very bad, like really bad, bad as hell, awfully bad, unexpectedly bad, like come on guys bad, shush bad, sadly bad, but at the end just BAD! For me at least!!!

 

[Phuel]

Wonderful collection ... if you do not know who Tom Ford is

This showing straighhtup references not only Tom’s Gucci, Tom’s YSL, and his own namesake designs, but the look of his past campaigns and castings. It’s the essence of Tom Ford.

 

[Monsieur Cristobal]

. What Haider showed was much more cinematic with a narrative feel - You could imagine the characters on his runway in a Tom Ford film - So from my side that can count as a 'mission accomplished'.

That was such a good observation.

It is not sweaty, it is not disco, it is not the "I want your love" campaign...
but these cold, remote supernatural beings belong to the same world like the gallerist from "Nocturnal Animals".

 

[BalkaniStaCouture]

Seriously, I am really getting fed up with bunch of delulu’s here.

You guys are saying that this is the essence of Tom Ford… do you have eyes???

Tom Ford is sexy, well tailored and smooth… this is everything but not that.

First you are crazy if you think that any normal men will buy glittery jackets… First looks in leather are more TOM OF FINLAND and glittery stuff are SissyCouture. So no, this won’t be flying off the shelves, let me tell you that!

Tom’s women on another hand were amazingly sexy and seductive, I didn’t see that here. Not a clue (of even patterns) of Tom Ford.

Haider was disappointment in a big way. Not what I expected. You all are gushing bcs he is kind of star, but this was B A D.

The green dress poked my eyes so bad. Bad design, bad tailoring, stitching, fitting… Jesus so bad.

So Bad


So Good

(vogue.com)

 

[BalkaniStaCouture]

That was such a good observation.

It is not sweaty, it is not disco, it is not the "I want your love" campaign...
but these cold, remote supernatural beings belong to the same world like the gallerist from "Nocturnal Animals".

Yes I agree. That’s why he should stick to failed cinema box office indie movies bcs never even 13 time Oscar winners for Costume Design thought they could be a runway designers. So YES let’s kick Haider into cinema world and live happily ever after with sexy Tom Ford. ‘Kay??!!!

 

[perhydrol]

It is not sweaty, it is not disco, it is not the "I want your love" campaign...
but these cold, remote supernatural beings belong to the same world like the gallerist from "Nocturnal Animals".

Agree. And that may be the reason why Haider has Tom's approval. I feel like they both operate within the same universe, but Haider's work is more sterile in a way, his models look like a group of ghosts. I wouldn't say it's something negative, tho. On the contrary, it feels like the right way of exploring the aforementioned universe without making it too costumey. That's also what Tom wanted for the brand: something intriguing that would push it forward, and Hawkings would never have provided any fresh perspective with his shows. As a debut, it just feels right and fascinating enough.

 

[blueorchid]

I’m sorry, how many times do you have to post on the thread that you hate the collection? We GET IT. Calm down. @BalkaniStaCouture No need to be a troll about it.

 

[Alquimista]

Seriously, I am really getting fed up with bunch of delulu’s here.

You guys are saying that this is the essence of Tom Ford… do you have eyes???

Tom Ford is sexy, well tailored and smooth… this is everything but not that.

First you are crazy if you think that any normal men will buy glittery jackets… First looks in leather are more TOM OF FINLAND and glittery stuff are SissyCouture. So no, this won’t be flying off the shelves, let me tell you that!

Tom’s women on another hand were amazingly sexy and seductive, I didn’t see that here. Not a clue (of even patterns) of Tom Ford.

Haider was disappointment in a big way. Not what I expected. You all are gushing bcs he is kind of star, but this was B A D.

The green dress poked my eyes so bad. Bad design, bad tailoring, stitching, fitting… Jesus so bad.

So Bad
View attachment 1357976

So Good
View attachment 1357989View attachment 1357990
(vogue.com)

Perceptions are funny cause the green dress's shape is total TF to me, but the black jumpsuit is not.

 

[JeanAvril]

I'm still digesting. Everything looked very expensive, and I enjoyed the intimacy, even though the end-product with all the models stumbling behind each other was hard to watch. But there was a humility that can't be bought or stylised here. Saskia and Sara's outfits were real knockouts.

Idk if it was @Lola701 that said it about Armani, but there's this way of presentation i see here, where time doesn't exist, like a real jet-set type. Except the TF client shoplifts from time to time to feel something.

 

[FashioNarrating]

A fine debut, but not a triumph imo. The slim leather pants on guys and the long dresses with side slits are a step in the right direction, those look posh yet somewhat erotically suggestive. The tailoring is nothing we haven't seen before, but well done nonetheless. The "issue" here is everything else: the very clean styling that made the models look like they would rather wear Nasomatto than any TF fragrance, the general lack of sensual looseness which neither Haider at his own brand nor Tom Ford the designer were strangers to, the music which could've been at least a bit jazzier, the pace of the show, the mildly chaotic choreo, the color choices whenever it wasn't the neutrals (both the pastels and the bright hues look to me a bit off in a way that's not the most refined), the blocked neon brows, how similar the overall vibe was to his Gaultier couture and the feeling that he is more suited to do Lanvin or even YSL (several elements of the show reminded me of Alber's tenure). My impression is that for a while Haider has been seen as the ultimate contemporary design talent by (older) industry icons from Karl Lagerfeld to Tom Ford, and now he is the one who snagged him to turn his brand - well, not anymore - into something more European and chic than it ever really was.. whether it'll work is a question.