Tom Ford Mens S/S 2020 Milan

[Deleted member 142819]

 

[Deleted member 142819]

Vogue US

MILAN,JUNE 18, 2019
by LUKE LEITCH
Tom Ford was the catalyst that kick-started the direction fashion has taken this millennium. Sure, Hedi Slimane was there on backing vocals, and Martin Margiela was already delivering his now also much-imitated woo-woo riffs of genius. But it was Ford at Gucci who birthed the exemplar bass line that fashion has danced to ever since. His was the first spiffing up of a tired old house into something fabulous, glamorous, and highly profitable that so many have followed (with various levels of success) since. For good or ill it was his eye that created the context of today’s weird fashion Tinder-world in which creative directors and houses restlessly swipe this way and that in search of a moneymaking match.

That preamble is to emphasize the fact that when Tom Ford speaks, you cup your hand to your ear and listen, hard. For he is a seer. Of late, the guru has mostly kept his own counsel. He has seemed focused on family, films, his saucily monikered fragrance brands, and preparing to do for the CFDA what he once did for Gucci. Thus a visit to Ford’s showroom this afternoon brought no especial presentiment of the gravity-tilting revelation ahead. At first, all seemed as usual. The thick cream shag pile carpet muffled the breathy coos of buyers as his 2020 collection was appreciatively fingered through. There were great suits, and lots of them—razor-cut black or white with monochrome exotic accents and sexy rock-star boots. There were some powerfully shouldered jacquard jackets in radioactively fuchsia leopard and zebra. There were some great fitted perforated leather jackets and matching slim-fit cargo pants in cream. It was all hot-to-trot stuff, but it was all pretty typical, until—shut the front door!—there were the yoga pants.

That, at least, is what the swirly patterned, marble-ish and vaguely camo skintight leggings, worn with strappy flat sandals and some fine luxe-technical bombers, most resembled at first glimpse. It was hard to tell precisely, however, because in Casa Ford the lookbook images are shown on a flat-screen gallery that rotates every half second or so, like a too-fast departure-lounge board.

There on the rail, tucked alongside that fleshy pink zebra jacquard jacket, were the items IRL. A quick going over established that even though these looked like yoga pants, they were, more strictly, pieces of long-legged underwear—the button-free fly detail made this abundantly clear. Ford, sadly, was not present at this presentation, but he had provided the next best thing: a Ford-penned press release brimming with cogitations upon the season ahead. There, near the bottom, was the key decree: “Long underwear in abstract camouflage prints is worn as casualwear and replaces the training pant this season.”

Boom. In one apparently nonchalant sentence, Tom Ford might just have empowered long johns as outerwear. Don’t believe it? Past form suggests that what Tom says, goes. Welcome to the 2020s.

 

[Lola701]

I’m quite fascinated by the evolution of Tom Ford menswear...
He was responsible, a decade ago, for the return of that super-sophisticated look for men. He made the suit hot again and his dinner jackets and also the cut of his suits have been copied by a lot of brands..

Now, it seems like seasons after seasons, he wants to go back to that Gucci look. This collection is very Gucci...From the allure of the models to the photos themselves that are reminiscent of the FW 2001 campaign.

There’s a change of colors and attitude but I feel like he is not brave enough to go full Gucci.
It’s a solid collection. The colorful dinner jackets and somehow fun but unfortunately, it’s not the younger side of his clientele that will buy it...And so, it will look ridiculous!

That being said, this is the type of attitude we want in womenswear Tom!