Tom Ford S/S 2020 New York

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[Lola701]

This is maybe since SS 2015, the most modern presentation i’ve seen from Tom. It’s slick, modern and sexy...

As usual with Tom, the tailoring is strong. I love the look on Binx, the opening looks with the ballon skirts (very surprising from Tom), the look on Selena, on Lexi and that fabulous Orange coat!

That being said, Tom is talking about simplicity but he needs to find the right balance between Simplicity and Boredom/Basic.
The menswear is funky and fun but the silk jersey dresses are a bit lazy.

The promise was huge, the spirit is very SS98 Gucci and the collection is somehow a mix between his SS01 collections for Gucci and YSL, both are personal favorites.

I think that Tom needs to challenge himself and it will only work when he will stop to work with Carine on the shows. She is great for the campaigns but her French touch isn’t fresh anymore.

That being said, after the disappointment of his FW collection, this is a welcome return to form. It’s great to see a Tom Ford woman more active and urban. Life is not an ending cocktail gala...

 

[Nymphaea]

This isn't worthy of the name Tom Ford, what a cheap mess. Was he even conscious when designing this?

 

[FashionFanatico]

Horrible

 

[dodencebt]

This isn't worthy of the name Tom Ford, what a cheap mess. Was he even conscious when designing this?

As if he actually designs this bland mess. The Tom Ford has been running on autopilot for a while now; it's clear that he wanted to launch his own brand only as a source of income while he pursues other hobbies without wanting to come even close to the great designer he once was.

 

[Salvatore]

As if he actually designs this bland mess. The Tom Ford has been running on autopilot for a while now; it's clear that he wanted to launch his own brand only as a source of income while he pursues other hobbies without wanting to come even close to the great designer he once was.

I never really thought about Tom Ford not actually designing these items as his personality is too controlling and that of a perfectionist, but at the same time I can't understand why it doesn't have that spark anymore. Him not designing has to be it. This collection does nothing for me. I love the colours, but it's just awful.

 

[dodencebt]

I never really thought about Tom Ford not actually designing these items as his personality is too controlling and that of a perfectionist, but at the same time I can't understand why it doesn't have that spark anymore. Him not designing has to be it. This collection does nothing for me. I love the colours, but it's just awful.

I agree that his controlling, perfectionist-oriented personality suggests that he'd be the one designing the clothes, but you can still be a perfectionist with giving directions, adjusting the fit etc. while others design the actual pieces. Or maybe this is my mind trying to justify how something this bland could come out of Tom Ford's talent and I am just lying to myself.

 

[disco54]

This seriously cannot be designed by him, its soooo frumpy and dumpy. The color palette of neon is an eye sore too. He should stick to what he does best , his renditions of late 70s disco sluts and coke whores.

 

[jeanclaude]

That trashy streetwear style reeks of desperation for being relevant again as a designer.

 

[Lola701]

I agree that his controlling, perfectionist-oriented personality suggests that he'd be the one designing the clothes, but you can still be a perfectionist with giving directions, adjusting the fit etc. while others design the actual pieces. Or maybe this is my mind trying to justify how something this bland could come out of Tom Ford's talent and I am just lying to myself.

Just laziness. I think he tried before...Even if his collections weren’t particularly well received, most of his early stuff looked designed. It was maybe badly styled or presented but it showed an effort.

Now, it’s pure laziness. I don’t think he feels competitive in the fashion aspect anymore. I think building a big brand actually excites him but doing exciting collections for that? No.

I’m sure the collection was designed in less than two weeks because someone as talented and skilled as him doesn’t need that much time to do that. Add to that the fact that he only references himself lately and he is working with lazy Carine too...

For me, the elastic band thing is the most offensive thing of this collection.

It’s a pity because the first few looks were a great way to build up something exciting.

 

[dodencebt]

It’s a pity because the first few looks were a great way to build up something exciting.

I genuinely got excited when I saw that the show was being held in an underground station! I was like, "Finally, Tom Ford is actually going to stage a show." But how could I have known.

 

[tricotineacetat]

Tom Ford is not a good minimalist, in order to pull that off, every minutest detail must be perfectly considered, each separate piece on-point and essential, which is not the case here. I agree that the elasticated waists are an insult, even if the fabrications are the most expensive silks it would not change the fact that the result looks cheap. The molded acryl bras and bustiers are a lazy piece of showmanship that do nothing to solidify the authority of his womenswear and the silk jersey pieces look lazy and cheap.

He could have gone an easy route and take the menswear as a direct starting point for his collection, add a few louche colors and maybe add a few killer evening dresses but this push towards badly designed 'daywear' really won't lure any new customers into his stores.

 

[Lola701]

Tom Ford is not a good minimalist, in order to pull that off, every minutest detail must be perfectly considered, each separate piece on-point and essential, which is not the case here. I agree that the elasticated waists are an insult, even if the fabrications are the most expensive silks it would not change the fact that the result looks cheap. The molded acryl bras and bustiers are a lazy piece of showmanship that do nothing to solidify the authority of his womenswear and the silk jersey pieces look lazy and cheap.

He could have gone an easy route and take the menswear as a direct starting point for his collection, add a few louche colors and maybe add a few killer evening dresses but this push towards badly designed 'daywear' really won't lure any new customers into his stores.

Exactly. I think that even if Tom is known for his minimalist approach, it has more to do with simplicity in lines or colors than quote on quote minimalism.

There’s always a feeling like he is trying to deliver what people expect from him (90´s Gucci) rather than to follow the natural progression of his aesthetic (louche, slightly loud, chic with some touch of vulgarity).

His menswear is selling more than his womenswear and while I can understand the pressure to keep up with what’s going on, I believe that with doing what he actually believe in and maybe have a fresh eye on the styling, it could work.

Basic is not a word that we were used to use to describe Tom Ford. And it’s been to many seasons now... How many seasons with muted colors and pop of flashy colors, how many seasons with silk jersey t-shirts and column dresses?

Sure, those are the best t-shirts in the luxury business but do we need them on the runway?

I feel like more than before, people loves the idea of Tom Ford rather than it reality.

But I have to admit that i’m super excited for the campaign!

 

[dior_couture1245]

I actually think a lot of this is really nice. I agree that the elastic silk jersey dresses are not good...but the opening looks, the tailored satin jackets and that orange coat are all really good. I even kind of like the evening this time around, and the expectation these days is that the eveningwear on the catwalk is where Tom always misses the mark.

I totally agree with Lola that Tom needs to consider a new stylist. I seriously doubt he ever would, but Carine is dragging him down and keeping him in the past. I feel like with a few different styling choices, a few different casting choices and a few different ideas on hair and makeup would have taken this collection over the finish line.

For example...instead of a metallic stiletto with a big tie at the ankle...I would prefer to see something a bit more unexpected, like a round-toe, chunky heel pump. And why not let all the girl’s hair down to relax the whole thing a bit?

Carine is too tied to her self image at this point....the T-shirt, the pencil skirt, the hosiery, the stiletto, the smoky eye....I’m all for sexy, but her particular brand of it hasn’t evolved and no longer carries the electric charge it once did. Tom Ford is also obviously very tied to his own past, too, but I can imagine he would be open to little tweaks from a fresher stylist...

 

[jeanclaude]

The first looks (t-shirt with long couture-like skirt) reminds me of Raf Simons at Jil Sander too much!

 

[lelaid]

I love everything about Tom Ford but this collection was a mess. Elastic waist maxi skirts? Gauchos? What the hell happened here?

 

[Lola701]

Carine is too tied to her self image at this point....the T-shirt, the pencil skirt, the hosiery, the stiletto, the smoky eye....I’m all for sexy, but her particular brand of it hasn’t evolved and no longer carries the electric charge it once did

A.M.E.N.

I want George Cortina or Camilla Nickerson to take charge!

 

[KoV]

Tom Ford is working on two upcoming film projects, is the chairman of the CFDA, claims to drive his son to school every morning and mingle with the other parents, just launched a new skincare line, takes 17 baths per day, and then is designing collections for men and women? Plus the makeup. Something's got to give.

 

[SophiaVB]

Tom Ford is working on two upcoming film projects, is the chairman of the CFDA, claims to drive his son to school every morning and mingle with the other parents, just launched a new skincare line, takes 17 baths per day, and then is designing collections for men and women? Plus the makeup. Something's got to give.

LOL