February 12, 2013
Architectural Beauty at Chado Ralph Rucci
By Belisa Silva
Beauty was graphic and strong backstage at Chado Ralph Rucci.
The dramatic, aerodynamic updo, created by Laurent Philippon, for Bumble and bumble, was meant to resemble “architecture” and “sculpture.” To create the style, Philippon began by blowing out hair with a “ponytail blow dry.” He then sectioned hair into two parts, divided horizontally, back-combed and sprayed heavily with Bumble and bumble Does It All. The bottom was then secured with a bungee and the ponytail was braided about two inches. Pins then secured the braids into a horizontal crown shape, which became the base, or “bridge” of the look. Next, the top section of hair was braided and tucked under itself. To keep things in place and to get an “entirely wet” effect, Philippon used generous amounts of Bumble’s Spray de Mode.
Faces, created by Tom Pecheux for MAC, were meant to match hair’s drama. “The whole look is all about being very architectural,” Pecheux said. “Ralph Rucci is known to be an amazing couture designer and his pieces, especially in the winter time, are very graphic and that’s what we wanted to bring.”
At the focus of the look was a strong eye, which featured an extended “powerful black line,” created with MAC Blacktrack Gel Eyeliner. “It’s a strong girl, not an all old antique look. It’s very couture.” To create the exaggerated lined look, Pecheux began by framing eyes on the top and bottom, then extending the lines for drama. “It’s a lot of work but its just those perfect lines, we are extending it quite a lot because also I think it’s dynamic so people sitting in the audience will see the incredible eye and chignon.” Each girl was given false lashes, eyebrows were kept natural and skin was given a matte satin finish. Cheeks featured “a bit of contour and a bit of highlight” and lips were left “natural. We wanted a cool girl not too lady like,” he said.
When asked about personal beauty techniques, Pecheux revealed that he likes to massage models’ faces before applying makeup. “I always try to give love to the girl. It’s good treatment, they relax,” he said. “The type of life they have, running around, so we try to give them a bit of love.”
Looking forward to fall, he said, “I think what is going to be interesting are the contrasts. Contrasts of texture, contrasts of color; like nude and black, matte and metallic, satins. I think [contrasts] are going to give the richness of the winter.”
Nails were kept “simple but expensive looking,” featuring either a soft pink or soft tan shade by Essie. Hands featured either Mademoiselle, a light pink color, or Sand Tropez, a natural sand hue, to keep nails “neutral.”
