Past Perfect Historical Romance Is a Must-Read for Fall June 8, 2004 – Nipped waists, high collars, capelets, dangling trims: If fall's runways summoned a certain turn-of-the-century mood, it was purely intentional. At D&G, Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana gave the belle époque a big shout-out with a T-shirt that proclaimed "1900." Giorgio Armani opted for a more subtle reference by way of an ultracurvy silhouette, while Marc Jacobs' long, tiered, bustled skirts for Louis Vuitton paid tribute to the lithe aristocrats portrayed by society painter James Tissot. Far and away the season's favored frippery, though, was the capelet: Ralph Lauren did his in properly dramatic black, Behnaz Sarafpour went for a feathery version, while J. Mendel's cozy contribution could warm up even the most reluctant revivalist. –Laird Borrelli Dangerous curves at Dolce & Gabbana. Hustle-bustle: Louis Vuitton's fitted skirt. Haute stuff: Mariacarla in Christian Lacroix. A slithering S-curve at Giorgio Armani.