On the newsstand it just begs to be taken home, but it's really fool's gold. I felt duped. The editor needed a whopping 3 pages to introduce this issue! I've certainly never seen that in any magazine before. Anna takes up two at most, with images. What, some of you may wonder, could he possibly write about over three pages? Fluff, mostly. When it isn't one elongated sales pitch, that is. One can smell the desperation between the lines. 'I really hope this will work', 'please stick with us', 'we've changed, sort of, kind of.' He bangs on about the new size, the glossy pages, the fact that the design will be implemented across their various platforms (no sh!t), Cass Bird's debut with the cover, Jo Ellison, Martin Parr etc etc etc.
In layman's terms the major revamp, other than the obvious cosmetic changes, is mainly the fact that Esquire and Big Black Book (Esquire's equivalent of GQ Style which used to retail at 6 quid) are now merged. I think that's why the price and page count increased so drastically. This is also a March/April edition, the previous one was Jan/Feb, so the issues per year will naturally be less. Otherwise it's really business as usual. The magazine still publish Paris Review style long form articles like they used to, even for the front of the book. The fashion content comes in the form of a 22-page pictorial of Jordan Barrett in Saudi Arabia. Styling looks gorgeous, very unassuming which works for the location, but Jordan is perhaps a miscast. Some of the shots are stunning, but in others he's posing like he's in the streets of LA. There's not much of a link between him and the location. Mahershala's edit is a bit of a letdown too. 8 pages, and most of the full-length shots are shot in location in NY. Really hoped for a studio story in the vein of the cover. Also, Mahershala just appeared in last month's issue as a 'man to watch' and now he gets the cover? Certainly a very fast worker, if you ask me.
Another editorial of summer suits shot against a white studio, and Martin Parr visiting Savile Row rounds out the fashion edits. That is, in addition to the nauseating praise for Andrian Joffe/Dover Street Market and an accessories selection where zero care or props were taken to present the goods in a captivating manner.
There's not much of a marked departure in terms of aesthetic and fiercely identity, like we've seen with the new US GQ. The British Esquire male doesn't fetishize women the way the US edition does, and it also does not talk local or global politics in the same brashy tone as UK GQ. In fact, it doesn't engage in politics at all. The vibe is mature, cultured and very intellectual with a subdued heterosexual edge. The accessories, journalism and even the ads that. They've continued with the short stories instalment in this issue for instance.
I'll probably still buy it occasionally on impulse as I have for the past years because it's a good Sunday afternoon read and the journalism actually makes it worth keeping. But it belies all the marketing lingo and 'revamped' superlatives. It's just same old British Esquire, with more glossier pages and modern design fonts.