I have noticed her work, especially last FW's outstanding collection, which was strong, dramatic, and original, very impressive. This is why I am hesitating in stating my opinion about this collection...
I'm very sorry to say I'm not so taken by this collection - it's a bit derivative - Antwerpen like older collections of Ann D, Yohji Yamamoto, etc., floppy, shapeless, rustic, etc.
Don't understand the limp hair and energy-sapping presentation either - black on black on black simply sucks all the light out of the collection.
It's perplexing because the trends were moving towards HER direction, firmer, stronger lines and volumes, high contrast textures, so don't understand why she would do this....it's like a step backwards, imho.
I will still look forward to her future collections, as last FW was truly beautiful.