Ute Ploier Vs. Petar Petrov Vs. Carola Euler

[jhaime]

www.petarpetrov.com/www.uteploier.c...ww.carolaeuler.com/collection/index.htmlThree very similar menswear designers in aesthetic, sporting slim silhouettes, clean crisp shirts, nylon zip-up bombers, loose neck tee's...the odd black blazer.All three came on the scene roughly the same time, around 2005...a) is the market large enough to support three progressive menswear designers?b) have Ute & Petar established more accounts worldwide because they show in Paris as opposed to London?c) while it would appear Carola has the strongest collection...who has the lasting power to remain successful in such a volatile & competitve marketplace?d) will all three fully establish themselves because we are witnessing an abundant evolution in mens lifestyle wear?

 

[jhaime]

oh I give up trying to fix that...since when did we have to know HTML to post on here...

 

[Scott]

ooh interesting question. i do think alot of it is to do with the fact they're getting their work out there not just in presenting a collection for press but also the showroom stuff for buyers. ute and petar i know both have places at rendez-vous showroom which holds events in london and in paris. i don't know if i agree that clara has the strongest,most resonating aesthetics in comparison because frankly after seeing each season,whilst great,i still say ute ploier is the one that's beginning to make a distinct name for herself compared with not only these two but most austrian talents as a whole. she knows how to be irreverent and creative but i also think she knows the balance of getting her work on the backs of people. and she really showed that strength this season.

 

[cads]

I think it should be a celebration, this glut of interesting menswear. Ute certainly is garnering the most attention, due to the fact that it is the most provocative, but I think all three of them are producing progressive menswear that men want to wear (which is no mean feat). The most important factor to keep them alive will obviously be their pricepoint(s). If they can produce these interesting things at a cost their customer can afford, they will go from strength to strength. In this regard, Petar has it covered.
Also, I find it very interesting that he has branched out into womenswear, presenting his second womenswear collection for AW08. I think this will certainly enhance his aesthetic...

 

[jhaime]

it's incredible really...i was discussing the use of forum, blogs & wiki's etc with a friend recently...& how engaging with one another & presenting opinions, ideas, assessments etc...you have a situation here, where three designers, all relatively similar, have gathered three alternative perspectives within just 3 posts...I think you've touched on such a crucial point there Cads, with price. Finding an effective cost solution, without reducing the quality of production. Easier said than done ofcourse.I think London designers really do struggle to source materials & enter production on a small scale, within cost effective constraints. It's a big enough risk for buyers to take on an emerging designer...let alone one with massively high wholsesale entry levels...I guess we'll see how things unfold...the menswear market is incredibly interesting right now...you've also got people like Omar Kashoura, carolyn massey, sebastian lunden, deryk walker, aitor throup & Hans christian Madsen all waiting in wings...

 

[jhaime]

Carola Euler - Apres Ski----Carola Euler’s show title was Après Ski and took a regular sports collection to an unprecedented level of precision and sexy style. The models and the music were fast-paced reflecting shear confidence and sophistication; and her signature use of detailing was conveyed by the use of padding, folds, and zips. The colour palette of neutral pewter, slate grey, silver and white with a splash of burgundy reflected an alpine scene and key looks included a pair of tailored ski pants and a very sharp corduroy metallic grey suit. A very hot collection to be worn on the coldest of days----American Psycho hits the slopes----Carola Euler describes her work as strong, sharp, sexy and ironic and if she had to pigeonhole it she would define it as Nouveau Classic, as she is all about re-inventing classics in a modern way.----In her AW08 collection, the use of irony is subtle yet constant: ‘I sometimes worry that people won’t get my sense of humour, as fashion can be perceived as very serious’ says Carola. Her work is continuous - as soon as one collection has been shown, she is already planning the next one often using ideas that she didn’t get around to implementing in the one just gone.----‘Putting a show together is like creating a work of art’ she says. Her themes tend to be based on ideas or fictional characters which she then dresses up. This season she has chosen a rich boy in his early thirties who goes skiing every year and stays at his family chalet. Money is no object, he is arrogant, self-obsessed - in the American Psycho sense - and he hangs out with beautiful people. Although he might venture onto the ski slopes once or twice during the week, most of his time is spent sipping champagne and lounging around is his thermal underwear. Her favourite piece this season is the sweater. ‘I love their intricate collars, which are technically very complex and sophisticated but look very easy. I like things that are not ‘in your face’ and that are hidden. A lot of my work is like that’. It is her effortless simplicity and sense of humour that have become her signature style and like Helmut Lang, one of her favourite designers, Euler’s quest is to find balance and to know how much you can take away before something stops working.

 

[miikahuynh]

Describing them with similar aesthetics yes but they have different sensibilities which sets them apart. There is a greater dynamic with Ute's work because what she creates is an entire piece collection and overall complete. The other two designers for myself seem limited and their work is holding back. I was immediately touched by Ute's work much because of seeing her collection that is also functional. Ute's has great strength and vision in her direction for menswear and it is also reflected with her training with Raf Simons.

 

[jhaime]

I just want to open this discussion up, or provide an alternative dimension to it...I also want to engage more with our New York residents...basically, from a menswear perspective obviously, we've got a situation where Seven & Atelier dominate the progressive/avant-garde scene. What i'm curious to understand, is why designers i've touched on, such as Carola Euler, Ute Ploier, Petar Petrov, Andres Azubel, Kanya Miki, Omar Kashoura, Marjan Pejoski, Carolyn Massey, Hans Christian Madsen etc...are all looked over, when it comes to the big apple. In that group, we've got a rock aesthetic, Gentleman aesthetic, lifestyle aesthetic, I fail to understand why Seven & Atelier are less susceptible to such inclusion. We've got a situation where Barcelona & Berlin are more accommadating for these designers, over New York? surely the NYC market is in a position to support such a variation in progressive aesthetic?

 

[Scott]

i dunno...those particular shops seem represent only two very distinct directions. while atelier is probably the more sublime and quiet esoteric....seven is the quirkier,funkier. i just don't know if those designers(don't forget BLAAK,btw)really fit into those molds because of their variation and ambience. if that makes any sense. it really would be nicer to see ny open its market a bit more.

 

[jhaime]

well yeah, i'd completely agree with that analogy scott. Blaak & probably Laitinen tie in aswell. Seven is certainly more youthful orientated with its selection, however they have recently picked up Jean-Pierre Braganza & Damir Doma, which is two lines I feel would be more at home with Atelier's set-up. So there is a slight cloud of confusion for me, in the direction that Seven want to head in, possibly just looking for extra financial security with a few of their lines. However, the main issue i'm looking to address is; whether New York, the city itself is too centralised in the approach to menswear. Or if infact the stores in place, are dictating via their selection how progressive New York remains/becomes...Seven & Atelier have pushed the boundaries there over the last 3/4 years, the rate of progression & acceptance to European/Far East influence has been exponential...I guess the market can only facilitate & support so much? or are we being naive, as most of the designers mentioned there have points of sale throughout most cities internationally. Obviously the weak dollar & US economy doesn't help matters, but both stores import practically all of their stock as it stands.