Valentino Haute Couture S/S 2025 Paris

It’s evident crinoline would be easily removed and would significantly alter the shape. This hardly constitutes a critique. It is the bows distracting due to cluttered excess, detracting from the collection's more refined elements. My biggest issue is with his silken Renaissance serfwear.

Alessandro saying he makes costumes just means he lives in reality. Tom Ford called himself a stylist during his GG/YSL tenure.

Alessandro is incredibly self-aware, the comments about theatricality and crinoline. He’s aware of how people view him and he’s using that awareness to craft a collection. He probably is amused that so many people are mad about Vintage Valentino with optional crinoline... I think he's doing this to shape Valentino's image and remind us Valentino has always been in AM DNA... And then there’s the layer of accessibility. AM knows HC shoppers will have the chance to see the pieces without the crinoline and pulled apart into coherent looks.
 
Alessandro saying he makes costumes just means he lives in reality. Tom Ford called himself a stylist during his GG/YSL tenure.
Hmm…Tom Ford was called a stylist by his detractors during the early days of his Gucci success.
And it’s because of those critics that he elevated his design language from the moment he joined YSL and decided to challenge himself. So we’re gone the simple column dresses and things like that. Everything became over detailed and sometimes over designed…

I think it’s too easy to just say « oh I’m a costumier ». He decided to do fashion and not costumes…

However there was someone like Christian Lacroix who always said that he approached fashion as a costumier because for him, each dress was about a woman, a character, representing herself at a special event. But Lacroix never forget about the woman.

For me it’s important to respect the spirit of the house. I really don’t care about house codes if you don’t respect the spirit of the house.

That’s the problem that Stefano Pilati had during his last few seasons at YSL. From Marc Jacobs to Frida Giannini, it seemed like everybody understood the spirit of the Saint Laurent woman better than him despite him raiding the archives.
 

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