At Valentino , the succession question .
By Suzy Menkes - International Herald Tribune .
PARIS Valentino has joined the fashion houses searching for a successor. After what could be his penultimate ready-to-wear show on Sunday, Giancarlo Giammetti, Valentino's partner, confirmed that the house is looking for talent, as the iconic designer readies for retirement.
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The closing days of the fall/winter 2005 Paris season have been dominated by the succession question as new designers taking over from the great names of 20th century fashion are having mixed success.
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"We can't go on for 10 years - but who can we find for Valentino? Who?" said Giammetti, after the show, where the boyish energy and feminine decoration, mixed with Valentino's delicate handwork, proved how difficult it will be to come up with a replacement.
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"We have too much pride in the house to let it go after 45 years and there are already 10 houses in Paris searching for designers," said Giammetti, who added that the agreement with Valentino's parent company Marzotto SpA was that the designer will go on "as long as he wants to." In fact, a search has now started for a replacement. Matteo Marzotto, Valentino's CEO, said he did not wish to comment on the succession.
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But a Paris designer who asked not to be identified confirmed on Sunday that he has been approached, with the transfer period scheduled for a year to 18 months. Another person familiar with the situation said that Valentino can be expected to do his last couture in January 2006, with the new designer presenting in July.
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As if in preparation for that final retirement, when Valentino will be 74, he and Giammetti are quietly creating a foundation in London which, Giammetti says, "will not be a museum with clothes on mannequins," but a library and learning institution to help future designers understand the delicate intricacy of a couturier's work.
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They sure will have a lot to learn, because the way that Valentino can kiss a bow on the back of a princess line coat or tip a cascade of ruffles down the front of a plain blouse are not tricks easily learned. The sheer chiffon sleeves with embroidered wrists that veiled a scarlet dress were a miracle of construction.
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Often Valentino's shows can be too rich and fancy, but this - in spite of its length when the show slid into the inevitable red carpet gowns - was fresh in spirit. Because the designer sees the uptown crowd, he knows that a pair of snug-cut Valentino jeans with a shapely shearling top and a good bag is all a sassy girl needs. The caps? Useful if you are having a bad hair day. The diamond patterns? They went too far when a diamond shoe hit the same pattern on the runway or even when it splattered over the hem of a camel cape. But the motif mostly worked and the capes were cute when cropped at the shoulders for evening. The drop-dead gowns were gorgeous, but the pure essence of Valentino was in a tiny muff of tulle at the front, in lace snuggled into a draped jacket and in those icing sugar ruffles.
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How Marzotta will find a designer to fill the void is the big question.
Not unexpected news . B)
What interests me is who will replace him ?
And which are the 10 houses in Paris , looking for designers ?
I do hope that Gucci are NOT about to do an Alexandra Fraccinetti on poor old Stefano Pilati !!!
By Suzy Menkes - International Herald Tribune .
PARIS Valentino has joined the fashion houses searching for a successor. After what could be his penultimate ready-to-wear show on Sunday, Giancarlo Giammetti, Valentino's partner, confirmed that the house is looking for talent, as the iconic designer readies for retirement.
.
The closing days of the fall/winter 2005 Paris season have been dominated by the succession question as new designers taking over from the great names of 20th century fashion are having mixed success.
.
"We can't go on for 10 years - but who can we find for Valentino? Who?" said Giammetti, after the show, where the boyish energy and feminine decoration, mixed with Valentino's delicate handwork, proved how difficult it will be to come up with a replacement.
.
"We have too much pride in the house to let it go after 45 years and there are already 10 houses in Paris searching for designers," said Giammetti, who added that the agreement with Valentino's parent company Marzotto SpA was that the designer will go on "as long as he wants to." In fact, a search has now started for a replacement. Matteo Marzotto, Valentino's CEO, said he did not wish to comment on the succession.
.
But a Paris designer who asked not to be identified confirmed on Sunday that he has been approached, with the transfer period scheduled for a year to 18 months. Another person familiar with the situation said that Valentino can be expected to do his last couture in January 2006, with the new designer presenting in July.
.
As if in preparation for that final retirement, when Valentino will be 74, he and Giammetti are quietly creating a foundation in London which, Giammetti says, "will not be a museum with clothes on mannequins," but a library and learning institution to help future designers understand the delicate intricacy of a couturier's work.
.
They sure will have a lot to learn, because the way that Valentino can kiss a bow on the back of a princess line coat or tip a cascade of ruffles down the front of a plain blouse are not tricks easily learned. The sheer chiffon sleeves with embroidered wrists that veiled a scarlet dress were a miracle of construction.
.
Often Valentino's shows can be too rich and fancy, but this - in spite of its length when the show slid into the inevitable red carpet gowns - was fresh in spirit. Because the designer sees the uptown crowd, he knows that a pair of snug-cut Valentino jeans with a shapely shearling top and a good bag is all a sassy girl needs. The caps? Useful if you are having a bad hair day. The diamond patterns? They went too far when a diamond shoe hit the same pattern on the runway or even when it splattered over the hem of a camel cape. But the motif mostly worked and the capes were cute when cropped at the shoulders for evening. The drop-dead gowns were gorgeous, but the pure essence of Valentino was in a tiny muff of tulle at the front, in lace snuggled into a draped jacket and in those icing sugar ruffles.
.
How Marzotta will find a designer to fill the void is the big question.
Not unexpected news . B)
What interests me is who will replace him ?
And which are the 10 houses in Paris , looking for designers ?
I do hope that Gucci are NOT about to do an Alexandra Fraccinetti on poor old Stefano Pilati !!!
hes such a sweet and cute old man i totally love him 
please no!!!!!!!, to me elie saab (specially after his halle berry dress) is pure valentino/versace on acid....
