Vera Wang recently moved her showroom from the hustle and bustle of New York’s Garment District to an airy space overlooking Madison Square Park. Geographically speaking, the new location is only ten blocks south of her old stomping grounds, but in many ways the neighborhoods are worlds apart. “It makes me feel like I’m in Europe,” said Wang this morning, standing by the window where Mario Batali’s Mediterranean food hall Eataly is visible through bare trees. Maybe this is why Wang’s new collection is partly a foreign affair, or what she might call a miniature love letter to Paris. “I’m having a tiny Jane Birkin moment,” she said. If there were any direct references to the Anglo-French icon they were deftly filtered through the designer’s distinctive lens: chiffon blouses with elongated silk ties, flirty painted wool miniskirts, and cropped pullovers designed to be worn with a decidedly urban insouciance. Building on last season’s abstracted prints, her psychedelic spin on Marie Antoinette’s wallpaper, the patterns had a similar modernist verve, and the swirling sunset palette on a short sheath dress was a shot of warmth in shades of gray. It’s the kind of thing she imagines her teenage daughter might shop for, “a tad more youthful than usual,” said Wang, who was swathed in a charcoal parka with tonal goat-hair trim.
But for all the women she had in mind this season, the clothes spoke to Wang’s own sense of style first and foremost. Skinny ribbed leggings and cycling shorts have become a second skin in the gamine designer’s working wardrobe. And if anyone can make schoolgirl socks worn knee-high look grown up and sophisticated, it’s Vera, even if the trickier layers might be harder to pull off for those past college age. A felted trench coat with transparent chiffon sleeves, on the other hand, is an alluring proposition no matter which side of the pond—or generation gap, or park—you happen to sit on.