Vintage Magazine Discussion Thread

[blueorchid]

His name is actually Duc. He was Vietnamese and was Guy Bourdin’s assistant before going out on his own.
He worked for a while and did some nice work but it wasn’t a very long career.

Ooh, that's great. Some of these photographers are such mysteries to me, lost to time! It's definitely interesting. Especially the ones who seem to not exist or have any other samples of their work online. My other mystery photographer from Elle is "Tori Lenze" (which almost sounds like a pseudonym Lenze? Photographer? Lens? Was it the "Alan Smithee" of Elle?).

 

[Jacek]

Ooh, that's great. Some of these photographers are such mysteries to me, lost to time! It's definitely interesting. Especially the ones who seem to not exist or have any other samples of their work online. My other mystery photographer from Elle is "Tori Lenze" (which almost sounds like a pseudonym Lenze? Photographer? Lens? Was it the "Alan Smithee" of Elle?).

No, there was a photographer working for French Elle called Vitoria Lenze. I've seen several photographs by her but know nothing about her. There were so many photographers who only did a few shoots for magazines. it's impossible to keep track of them, although I hope to establish a database at some point in the future. Like IMDB but for fashion.

But if you want to know more about Duc, he was very much part of the early young French photographer scene in Paris in the late 60s and early 70s. In fact, his girlfriend was the model Eva Gschopf, who tragically died in n 1968 in Kingston NY, when high on LSD, she jumped out of a tree thinking she could fly and broke her neck.
Eva Gschopf - Otto Stupakoff - Google Arts & Culture"x"%3A0.5%2C"y"%3A0.5%2C"z"%3A9.409638079060787%2C"size"%3A%7B"width"%3A1.2984518533171274%2C"height"%3A1.2499999999999993%7D%7D

 

[blueorchid]

No, there was a photographer working for French Elle called Vitoria Lenze. I've seen several photographs by her but know nothing about her. There were so many photographers who only did a few shoots for magazines. it's impossible to keep track of them, although I hope to establish a database at some point in the future. Like IMDB but for fashion.

But if you want to know more about Duc, he was very much part of the early young French photographer scene in Paris in the late 60s and early 70s. In fact, his girlfriend was the model Eva Gschopf, who tragically died in n 1968 in Kingston NY, when high on LSD, she jumped out of a tree thinking she could fly and broke her neck.
Eva Gschopf - Otto Stupakoff - Google Arts & Culture"x"%3A0.5%2C"y"%3A0.5%2C"z"%3A9.409638079060787%2C"size"%3A%7B"width"%3A1.2984518533171274%2C"height"%3A1.2499999999999993%7D%7D

I'm relieved to know that Tori Lenze was real, at least! So far, I have 7 issues of Elle that she shot the cover for. It was driving me insane that I couldn't find any information.



my scans

I'm starting to become quite attached to some of the regular Elle photographers as I scan everything, like André Bouillaud, Yves Jannès, Roger Gain and Pierre Berdoy, the stuff they got them to photograph for some features... They provide me with a sense of consistency while scanning!!

Some sort of database like IMDB but for fashion would be so helpful. I feel like I've managed to find so much info because my actual job requires a lot of research (nothing at all to do with fashion), but you eventually know where to look for stuff and how to dig.

Thank you for the information on Duc, wow that is a crazy story! I'm always shocked when I look up what happened to certain models/photographers/random actors who were "the next big thing" while I'm scanning Elle and... it's not great.

 

[kasper!]

His name is actually Duc. He was Vietnamese and was Guy Bourdin’s assistant before going out on his own.
He worked for a while and did some nice work but it wasn’t a very long career.

Thank you so much. I have seen one photo of him in UNSEEN VOGUE many years ago but could not find more info about him. This photo is epic!

 

[kasper!]

Looking for advice... So, I'm at the point where I probably have 100+ vintage issue of Elle France scanned (with so many editorials I've never seen before by Helmut Newton, Guy Bourdin, Antonio Lopez, Peter Knapp, etc). These issues are such little gems!! What is the best way to share everything these days? Part of me just wishes I could share everything on an old-fashioned blog, for maximum organization, but is Instagram the way to go??

I think it is better to go back to Wordpress.

 

[blueorchid]

Thank you so much. I have seen one photo of him in UNSEEN VOGUE many years ago but could not find more info about him. This photo is epic!

View attachment 1234026

This is the only other editorial I knew of his, before finding his photos in Elle. Honestly, having a three letter name doesn't help with the search efforts!!

Vogue Paris June/July 1971
"L'Été en Robe-Chemisier"
Models: Louise Despointes & Wallis Franken
Photographer: Duc
Hair: Jean-Louis David



ciaovogue.blogspot.com via VogueGIrl

 

[kasper!]

^Looking like a catalog shooting. The one from Eiffel Tower is more groundbreaking...

Does anyone have more info about this Ritz magazine from UK?

 

[blueorchid]

There was recently book (I guess 3 volumes??) published about it by David Litchfield.

davidrllitchfield

 

[kasper!]

Fantastic...your post made my day. They have a full archive online! Many precious eds never been! And Chloe by Karl!

Ritz Newspaper - The Complete Archive

 

[blueorchid]

Omg! I feel like I have to save everything before we repeat what happened with JalouxGallery (RIP) or VFiles (RIP).

I'm such a data hoarder.

 

[callmejaeden]

Does anyone know if Gisele Bündchen did anything else for Pavement other than this photo? It's from December 1997 and was shot by Regan Cameron

 

[hfgl]

Fantastic...your post made my day. They have a full archive online! Many precious eds never been! And Chloe by Karl!

Ritz Newspaper - The Complete Archive

HOLY! It's amazing, thank you for sharing.

 

[matfloor]

Does anyone know if Gisele Bündchen did anything else for Pavement other than this photo?

Not exactly related, but thanks for reminding me about existence of this mag actually. Pavement interested me for a while after I've read that i-D piece while ago, I honestly wonder if there's more of content from it other than in i-D piece.
I tried looking for issues but only found few listed for ridiculous prices. Even searching for it is annoying due to pretty much generic name, issue I had with researching more niche mags I got my hands on like Level (short lived Sleazenation/Wallpaper cross with fashion reduced to tiny editorial per issue...) I wonder if it's more widely available in NZ, maybe someone has a stack of it sitting around and might share more info about it? I hope so, so far it seems to be sort of... mix of shocking content from Sleazenation and rest from i-D/Dazed/The Face.

Smaller, regional mags that aren't just another edition of Vogue or other established fashion mags are often barely archived. It makes me think about a Polish magazine called Twoj Styl which pretty much reminds me of... Frank? But it started waaaay earlier than Frank, I believe 1991, though basic content of fashion + more deep reading material. I saw just covers of it on the net from listings and I didn't know how it will be at all since no content inside was even archived in any shape, though after flipping them they really kept on good level fashion wise given it was... transformation era Poland. Polish Elle suffers same fate, though Elle always had reprints but I'm curious about their late 90s original content. Too bad, it's not really obtainable.

Anyway, would be anything from Wallpaper* welcome here? Despite it being a more of architecture/design/travel magazine they always had fashion in every issue and additionally massive amount of ads, full campaigns... which is funny for me compared to UK Vogue from same exact period, aka late 90s. Only Vogue Italia is other mag where I saw some campaigns in full in print for first time.

 

[avonlea002]

maller, regional mags that aren't just another edition of Vogue or other established fashion mags are often barely archived. It makes me think about a Polish magazine called Twoj Styl which pretty much reminds me of... Frank? But it started waaaay earlier than Frank, I believe 1991, though basic content of fashion + more deep reading material. I saw just covers of it on the net from listings and I didn't know how it will be at all since no content inside was even archived in any shape, though after flipping them they really kept on good level fashion wise given it was... transformation era Poland. Polish Elle suffers same fate, though Elle always had reprints but I'm curious about their late 90s original content. Too bad, it's not really obtainable.

Twój styl is like that to this day. It has always put focus on articles rather than fashion photography. I am only guessing but Elle would probably be similar in its contents, just with reprints from other editions.

 

[Jacek]

^Looking like a catalog shooting. The one from Eiffel Tower is more groundbreaking...

Does anyone have more info about this Ritz magazine from UK?

View attachment 1234031

If you mean the magazine in general, it was a very trendy magazine in London in the late 70s started by David Bailey and a friend of his David Litchfield. They were both the editors.
It was their answer to Andy Warhol's very popular Interview Magazine in the US.
Ritz won all sorts of design and art direction awards, was printed on newsprint, tabloid size, super trendy and quite successful, with 4 GREAT gossip columnists, until the late 80s when it was overtaken by glossies.
There is a whole history here:
Ritz Newspaper - Wikipedia

If you mean that particular edition with Kelly LeBrock on the cover, I think it must have been one of the later editions because the reproduction is so much better than the early days - I only really knew Ritz from 77- 83 when I lived in Europe.

 

[matfloor]

Twój styl is like that to this day. It has always put focus on articles rather than fashion photography. I am only guessing but Elle would probably be similar in its contents, just with reprints from other editions.

Yeah, I honestly like how it was that way and fashion just was a nice addition making a really nice package. I like their runway coverages from late 90s a lot though and fashion shoots were refreshing to see too for me. They were simple, but still fun.

On related note, about Elle reprints - I wonder if it was more of UK/US sharing content and sharing it also with smaller edtions thing? I remember browsing through French Elle listings on ebay and from previews and covers I never saw anything being a reprint so far.

 

[callmejaeden]

Not exactly related, but thanks for reminding me about existence of this mag actually. Pavement interested me for a while after I've read that i-D piece while ago, I honestly wonder if there's more of content from it other than in i-D piece.
I tried looking for issues but only found few listed for ridiculous prices. Even searching for it is annoying due to pretty much generic name, issue I had with researching more niche mags I got my hands on like Level (short lived Sleazenation/Wallpaper cross with fashion reduced to tiny editorial per issue...) I wonder if it's more widely available in NZ, maybe someone has a stack of it sitting around and might share more info about it? I hope so, so far it seems to be sort of... mix of shocking content from Sleazenation and rest from i-D/Dazed/The Face.

I can confirm its not any easier to find here in NZ, I've been looking for Pavement issues for awhile in thrift stores, second hand bookshops etc. but haven't found any and the library lists it online but doesn't display which branch and when I emailed they didn't reply for some reason

 

[blueorchid]

Does anyone know what Zoom looked like inside? I'm tempted to buy a bunch I found for cheap online... but what's INSIDE of it? The covers are good, though.


etsy

 

[Jacek]

Does anyone know what Zoom looked like inside? I'm tempted to buy a bunch I found for cheap online... but what's INSIDE of it? The covers are good, though.

View attachment 1250861
etsy

Ritz was an amazing magazine/newspaper. You can see the whole archive here, free.

Ritz Newspaper - The Complete Archive

In the late 70s and early 80s, David Bailey and David Litchfield published an exclusive London society newspaper. Its name was RITZ.

ritznewspaper.co.uk

 

[blueorchid]

@Jacek I *WISH* I found Ritz Newspapers online, but what I found was the photography magazine called Zoom. Not as exciting, but more mysterious.