VPL: At a time when so many have tolled the death knell for avant-garde fashion and the cult of plain-old-pretty rules the cool school, Victoria Bartlett and Jeffrey Costello’s underwear line VPL offers up a refreshing point of difference. The show began with a symbolic dissection: Models in T-shirts printed with a naked body took a pair of scissors to the front, slicing the top all the way down. The collection that followed continued in the same vein as seasons past, utilizing medical and athletic motifs to transform once-familiar garments into a dark-edged fashion statement.
However, VPL never fully crossed over to the dark side, existing in a sort of twilight. For starters, the layered soft cotton pieces were in beautiful colors: blushing nude, soft poppy red, milky gray and a green that reminds you of new grass on the sunniest day. Even when the fabrics were contorted, the effect was beautiful, not jarring. And the details — perforated rubber panels, inseams that unsnap like baby clothes and nude straps that bind the body under the arms and across the belly — only hinted at something sinister. However, now that Bartlett and Costello’s root idea has been fully realized for a couple of seasons, it would be interesting to see them take it further.