Via South China Morning Post:
‘It’s been tough’: luxury fashion magazine Vogue Singapore’s editor-in-chief on its ‘super difficult’ launch amid Covid-19 chaos, downturn
- Between the announcement of Vogue Singapore’s launch in January and its debut this month, everything changed for the luxury fashion industry because of Covid-19
- Editor-in-chief Norman Tan talks about the difficulties he and his team overcame, and the issues Vogue’s 27th international edition will focus on
Vincenzo La Torre
Published: 8:55am, 23 Sep, 2020
The long-awaited first issue of
Vogue Singapore, the 27th edition of the glossy fashion magazine owned by publisher Condé Nast, is out, both in print and online. When Condé Nast announced
the edition’s launch in mid-January, the world was a very different place. Since then the coronavirus pandemic and ensuing financial crisis have battered the global economy, taking a toll on the luxury industry in particular.
According to consultancy Bain & Company, the global market for luxury goods is expected to contract by 35 per cent to 39 per cent in 2020, while marketing agency Digital Luxury Group reported in June that luxury brands have cut advertising budgets by between 30 per cent and 80 per cent as a result of the economic downturn.
This month the Monetary Authority of Singapore predicted that the city state’s economy would contract by 6 per cent this year, with wholesale and retail trade among the sectors most impacted.
Launching a fashion magazine in 2020, especially in a saturated market such as Singapore’s, where titles such as
Harper’s Bazaar,
Elle,
Her World and
Female already operate, was never going to be easy, but the coronavirus pandemic made the task even more difficult. Still, the
Vogue Singapore team, led by editor-in-chief Norman Tan, formerly head of the local edition of men’s magazine
Esquire , was up to the task.
Condé Nast attempted to launch a Singapore edition of
Vogue almost 20 years ago but that short-lived magazine was one of the few flops in the history of the illustrious publisher, which is why there has been a lot of speculation about this new undertaking and whether Tan and his team can make a success of it.
Tan describes the logistics of producing fashion shoots during a global pandemic as “super difficult” but he is happy with the number of advertisers that the magazine was able to get, especially in such a difficult economic situation.
“When we started talking to brands in March and April they were quite optimistic about the launch as it was the beginning of Covid, but then they started making cuts and it was really challenging,” Tan says. “When we closed at the end of August we exceeded our expectations and benchmarks in terms of commercial revenue, so I’m thankful that brands were able to support us because it’s been tough.
“Not every brand from the luxury groups advertised, because everyone has different budgets, but we managed to get the top brands.”
The print version of the magazine features three covers, starring
Singaporean model Diya Prabhakar
in Balenciaga, photographed by Bryan Huynh with CGI floral illustration by Rodolfo Hernandez; Chinese supermodel Ju Xiaowen in Fendi, photographed by Gregory Harris; and Japanese actress Nana Komatsu in Chanel, photographed by Fish Zhang. The theme of the issue is Arise, sending a message of positivity.
The first issue includes interviews with Singaporean personalities such as actress and film producer Tan Kheng Hua, international designers such as Giorgio Armani, and three foreign domestic workers who share their stories of hardship, which Tan describes as “touching and a reassessment of the world as we know it in Singapore, one of those stories that are not normally told in Singapore”.
Many editions of
Vogue, including the flagship US and British ones, have been covering hot-button issues such as politics and racism lately. While the global health and economic crises and Black Lives Matter movement have triggered this shift in direction, it has also come as a response to
controversies surrounding Condé Nast,
which has been called out by former employees for its lack of diversity and toxic culture.
“We’re going to publish those stories that we can focus on here in Singapore,” says Tan. “There are a lot of regulations about what we can and can’t discuss politically or otherwise, so it’s just being careful with what we talk about and choosing our platforms, because for some reasons in Singapore they seem to scrutinise print but you can talk about different topics online and on social media.”
Unable to launch with a physical event because of the pandemic,
Vogue Singapore is debuting
Vogue Studio, a day-long digital immersive experience that involves animated fashion shoots, live events and talks hosted by Tan and Anna Wintour, American
Vogue’s editor-in-chief and Condé Nast’s US artistic director and global content adviser.
Events used to be an important source of revenue for media companies, especially luxury publishers like Condé Nast. The company’s luxury conference, which over the years has taken place in cities such as Cape Town, Florence and Seoul, and was hosted by former
Vogue International editor Suzy Menkes, has been cancelled until further notice, another victim of the global pandemic.
Vogue Singapore will also have a philanthropic arm, the
Vogue Foundation, which will support local talent from fields such as design and content creation through the
Vogue Prize.