To quote the Kaiser, personality begins where comparison ends. I don't think Asian Vogues even reference European magazines at all. A Vogue edition that is capable of this masterpiece has neither need nor inclination to abide by any standards or join any tradition whatsoever. The theme may be preexisting, but the execution is not a copy, or a token, or a fake. Art as interpretation is old as hermeneutics. No archival erudition can make these covers less glorious. Excellence can't be disputed in terms of originality, and the fact that from title to motifs Vogue Taiwan does not even try to cover its tracks here proves how strong this edition is. Like Joyce rewriting the Odissey and calling it Ulysses. I don't see this Vogue issue as a sequitur to anything. It compares to no one. I see it as a challenge to the canon.
Fantastic observation.
Vogue China/Vogue Taiwan and GQ China (…and to a certain degree, ELLE Taiwan) are keeping that brand of high fashion dream and illusion alive and kicking, no doubt. And as much as it is deserving of hype as a distinct creative direction that is all their own, they’ve clearly taken influence from the best of Vogues— from Diana/Avedon's to Anna/Annie’s, and infused it with a distinctively, uniquely Chinese sensibility that’s also heavily and expensively cinematic. Their creative teams are leaving everyone else in the dust in that respect; producing imagery that requires and demands creative research, advanced technical skills— and you know, hard work: A trinity of traits that Western creatives seem to avoid like a plague, while mostly relying on the diversity/inclusivity/representation crutch to make up for their lack of talent— and hard work, time and time again. And it’s why creativity in the West is diminishing: Standards are so low that Italian and French Vogues have so quickly become the discount bins of Vogues (thank you, Edward!).
And despite the efforts Chinese creatives are making, they’re not
quite there yet: They can’t seem to produce a strong story from beginning to end. The cover selects are usually impressive, then the story unfolds to reveal maybe 2-3 more strong imagery, only to be rounded out by fillers. But, these covers are
good. And clearly paving the way for a new aesthetic of high standards in the Vogue lexicon. If I’m particularly hopeful, this is the beginning of a new high standard of fashion imaginary.
(You know, it’s such an oddity that such creative force is coming from a region that is by all accounts— a conservative, military, and still officially a communist state which by principle, doesn’t endorse individual creativity. Hoping that these creatives will dare to challenge the status quo more and more, in time. And all the while, the Western Vogues have become so much more conservative, bland, dowdy, pedestrian and soullessly corporate— all the traits of communism.)