I'm looking to buy some dress (button-down, collared) shirts for a guy with a tall, slender but not skinny figure. Recommendations of brands are good, but I'd also like to know what kinds of details one should look for in general when buying dress shirts. What specifically makes a man's dress shirt of good quality? Is a person just as well off buying a low end dress shirt, or is a splurge worth it, and why? I really don't know anything about the cutting and tailoring of men's clothes so those are the kinds of details I am looking for information about.
What should one look for, in terms of quality, when buying men's dress shirts?
- Thread starter orlem
- Start date
seraphelle you say the guy is tall and slender..if he doesn't need extra lenght sleeves I'd say Thomas Pink makes some of the best quality mens shirts, on the other hand if he, like my husband apart from being tall and slender, has broad shoulders AND more specific long arms..then Charles Tyrwhitt might be a label to look at. If you're unfortunate enough to be the one doing the ironing and hating it.. then I can say from experience that both Pink and Tyrwhitt shirts are easy to iron (aren't I the little housewife 
)
Both labels have websites.
As for what to look for :
)Both labels have websites.
As for what to look for :
- thread count
- look at the collar is it a good sturdy quality thats going to keep it's shape ?
- look at the backside of the row of buttons down the front of the shirt..the backside should not be loose but sewn flat..if it isn't then it usually will not sit nice but "flap" (I hope that made any sense.. otherwise I hope someone will make an effort to explain it better)
seraphelle said:
Idiosyncratic New York fave! http://www.16sur20.com/
Generally, one should look at the fabric first, of course (some labels might tell you the thread count, just like fancy bed sheets), than little things like two buttons instead of one on the collar, etc. I wish I could find a guide. Ascott Chang is another underestimated shirtmaker. Then, they are the Italian heavy hitters like Brioni and Saville Raw ones that I'm not familiar with, but those are mucho dinero...
PrinceOfCats
Naturellement pulpeuse
- Joined
- Nov 16, 2003
- Messages
- 10,124
- Reaction score
- 2
Brass collar stiffeners - accept no imitations
Yes said:
I"m going to have to say no to those sites! Those brands are absolutely the run-of-the-mill in terms of "quality" and "styling". All of these companies' shirts are cut for American sizings and thus fit very poorly. They all (except the express slim fit line which is sort of okay in terms of the cut) have pleated backs which result in a really baggy look.
These brands are what are wrong with american fashion. Almost everything from these lines are interchangeable. The fact that the vast majority of people buy from these brands, results in everyone looking the same.
Think about it. Go to any younger club and what do you see? Dudes with gelled hair, ill fitted dress shirt unbuttoned halfway down their chest, untucked, with a crappy brown leather belt on some ultra-worn jeans that are baggy and probably torn in a few spots. Top it off with terrible quality black leather shoes that are absolutely creased up and scuffed, or brown birkenstocks that are in the same condition. Every one of them looks exactly the same. Is this what you want to promote? Whatever happened to individualism?
It's a shame.
High quality clothing items, with a MUCH higher stitch count, better cut, greater attention to detail are not that far out of reach of people who are willing to pay the $60-75 for a dress shirt from the above stores. Places such as Century 21, Bluefly, Yoox, consignment stores, hell... even end of season sales put a TON of high quality (and of course some not so high quality) items easily within reach of everyone.
I will never set foot within an A&F, AE, Hollister Co because they are anathema to me. I've gone into express with friends before and watched them buy stuff.... hahaha
God, I'm so sick of what passes for fashion these days.... I'm not trying to be elitist or anything at all, it's just that people don't even try anymore. A little extra effort put into what you put on your body isn't so much to ask. Considering how much time, money and energy so many dudes put into their crap cars, why not direct it to something that you can be associated with on a more regular basis? Something that defines you, something that accentuates WHO you are. I can tell you that putting spinners on your car won't do that.
Chinor1z said:
If you would take a closer look inside the club you'd see me with this kind of shirt on:
with something like this as the undershirt:
wijavascript:openZoom();th these jeans
this belt
these shoes
So what would you wear mister anti everything
What would I wear?
Hmmmm....
Well absolutely nothing you just posted. Don't you see that you look EXACTLY like every other dude in the place?
Here's a description of what I wore out drinking last weekend:
Clean black leather chelsea boots
Slightly worn Dior Homme orange overdye jeans
Grommeted canvas belt
White dress shirt with small collar and skinny black thick shadow-striped tie (half windsor). Shirt doesn't have top collar buttoned.
Dark grey small lapel 2 button wool blazer, lightly textured with bits of gray and white.
Other days I'll wear skinny black dress pants, offset with a slim dark tee (no lame design on it), and black sneakers
Or, some raw denim jeans and a slim military styled sweater with a white dress shirt under it (shirttails tucked into jeans). Mix with some white sneakers.
The sky's the limit. Just stay away from those disgusting jeans that you posted. Clearly they're cut terribly baggy, and holes in your jeans? Yeah, that's a bit 80's don't you think?
Also, rolling up the sleeves of a dress shirt is really lame, it doesn't look good, and is definitely the opposite of classy. I'm assuming that classy is what you want to look like....
Finally, t-shirts with some 'design' on the front under what I'm guessing is a fully or at the very most half-buttoned dress shirt is just grungy.
The girls will pay more attention to you if you wear clothes that DON'T have more than the simplest of designs if it is a shirt (clean and basic is very key), if your dress shirt is a solid color (at most, striped, and NOT in a Paul Smith/Etro sort of way.... terribly overdone especially after last season when every low-end store ripped off the design) and is slim cut (ie- no back pleats, not baggy in the arms... if you tuck it in and get that poofy look around your waist... your shirt is too big).
For jeans, go for a much more subtle distressing.... oh, and NO HOLES/PATCHES/EMBROIDERY. In fact, screw it... just wear undistressed denim and you can't go wrong.
As for shoes... sneakers are great, no running shoes though.
Finally, the belt.... ratty, worn brown with a big buckle? Crap. Clean it up and go with something that isn't overly flashy. A canvas belt in a dark color that matches the rest of your outfit is always nice since it works with everything else, but texturally offsets the rest of your look. It'll provide that younger feel without making you look like a middle-schooler out at the clubs for teen night.
A nice blazer (one or two button ONLY) also helps. Plus, something to put over the ladies' shoulders at the end of the night. Make sure the blazer is cut similar to your shirt, nice and slim.
Take home lesson:
-Slim is and will always be in
-No pleats on anything. I'm assuming you're in-shape. Pleats will only make you look bad
-Blazers: 1 or two button. 3 button suits are sort of okay... but only button that middle button and don't let anyone convince you otherwise.
-keep the tees for casual days. I still have tons of great ones, but I won't be wearing it unless I'm just hanging out. Stick with solid colors in dark/neutral tones.
-if you're a guy, light military styling never hurts. Epaulets, dual chest pockets on jackets, black leather ankle boots... all real cool. Just don't overdo it or you'll look like you're ready to pull the next Columbine.
-pants/jeans: get ones that fit. No "sagging" your pants, no "boot cut". Regular straight leg is the best look if you're anywhere from lean to slightly atheletic in build. It enhances what you want it to enhance.
-don't just slather gel into your hair and spike it. Try pomade, even in a stick form and just use a little bit when your hair is damp. It does just enough and no more.
Thats it.
It's not about designer labels all the time. You can get this sort of styling at express even! For slimmer outerwear, H&M is always an option and is WAY cheaper than even express (at the very least, in the same price range).
And PLEASE tuck in your dress shirt. Doesn't matter that every other dude is running around with the jeans you posted and some ill fitted dress shirt untucked. Don't encourage them.
Take a look at various designer's runway photos to get ideas of color matching, and stylings. You don't have to spend a ton to look good. Although there isn't anything wrong with spending money on the sweet stuff!
I'm out.
-Albert
Hmmmm....
Well absolutely nothing you just posted. Don't you see that you look EXACTLY like every other dude in the place?
Here's a description of what I wore out drinking last weekend:
Clean black leather chelsea boots
Slightly worn Dior Homme orange overdye jeans
Grommeted canvas belt
White dress shirt with small collar and skinny black thick shadow-striped tie (half windsor). Shirt doesn't have top collar buttoned.
Dark grey small lapel 2 button wool blazer, lightly textured with bits of gray and white.
Other days I'll wear skinny black dress pants, offset with a slim dark tee (no lame design on it), and black sneakers
Or, some raw denim jeans and a slim military styled sweater with a white dress shirt under it (shirttails tucked into jeans). Mix with some white sneakers.
The sky's the limit. Just stay away from those disgusting jeans that you posted. Clearly they're cut terribly baggy, and holes in your jeans? Yeah, that's a bit 80's don't you think?
Also, rolling up the sleeves of a dress shirt is really lame, it doesn't look good, and is definitely the opposite of classy. I'm assuming that classy is what you want to look like....
Finally, t-shirts with some 'design' on the front under what I'm guessing is a fully or at the very most half-buttoned dress shirt is just grungy.
The girls will pay more attention to you if you wear clothes that DON'T have more than the simplest of designs if it is a shirt (clean and basic is very key), if your dress shirt is a solid color (at most, striped, and NOT in a Paul Smith/Etro sort of way.... terribly overdone especially after last season when every low-end store ripped off the design) and is slim cut (ie- no back pleats, not baggy in the arms... if you tuck it in and get that poofy look around your waist... your shirt is too big).
For jeans, go for a much more subtle distressing.... oh, and NO HOLES/PATCHES/EMBROIDERY. In fact, screw it... just wear undistressed denim and you can't go wrong.
As for shoes... sneakers are great, no running shoes though.
Finally, the belt.... ratty, worn brown with a big buckle? Crap. Clean it up and go with something that isn't overly flashy. A canvas belt in a dark color that matches the rest of your outfit is always nice since it works with everything else, but texturally offsets the rest of your look. It'll provide that younger feel without making you look like a middle-schooler out at the clubs for teen night.
A nice blazer (one or two button ONLY) also helps. Plus, something to put over the ladies' shoulders at the end of the night. Make sure the blazer is cut similar to your shirt, nice and slim.
Take home lesson:
-Slim is and will always be in
-No pleats on anything. I'm assuming you're in-shape. Pleats will only make you look bad
-Blazers: 1 or two button. 3 button suits are sort of okay... but only button that middle button and don't let anyone convince you otherwise.
-keep the tees for casual days. I still have tons of great ones, but I won't be wearing it unless I'm just hanging out. Stick with solid colors in dark/neutral tones.
-if you're a guy, light military styling never hurts. Epaulets, dual chest pockets on jackets, black leather ankle boots... all real cool. Just don't overdo it or you'll look like you're ready to pull the next Columbine.
-pants/jeans: get ones that fit. No "sagging" your pants, no "boot cut". Regular straight leg is the best look if you're anywhere from lean to slightly atheletic in build. It enhances what you want it to enhance.
-don't just slather gel into your hair and spike it. Try pomade, even in a stick form and just use a little bit when your hair is damp. It does just enough and no more.
Thats it.
It's not about designer labels all the time. You can get this sort of styling at express even! For slimmer outerwear, H&M is always an option and is WAY cheaper than even express (at the very least, in the same price range).
And PLEASE tuck in your dress shirt. Doesn't matter that every other dude is running around with the jeans you posted and some ill fitted dress shirt untucked. Don't encourage them.
Take a look at various designer's runway photos to get ideas of color matching, and stylings. You don't have to spend a ton to look good. Although there isn't anything wrong with spending money on the sweet stuff!
I'm out.
-Albert
Hanne said:
- Yes! Thank you, thank you, thank you Hanne, this is exactly the kind of info I was looking for in case I decide to look for something inexpensive. Must separate the good from the overpriced.
He actually lives in NYC, and judging from their site, 16 sur 20 sounds like a fun shopping trip for when I visit him. It looks like they charge around the prices I was expecting to pay, too. Thank you!faust said:
I couldn't find a guide either, but even if I could, tFS is usually a better resource
You are kidding right?PrinceofCats said:
They do make steel-toed shoes...
This is a funny little thread isn't it. I laughed at Faust andAlbert's posts.
On topic first - imo, best shirts are made by Richard James. Slim, but not overly fitted, simple medium height color with one button (not three or whatever by those Italian brands like Interno 8), extremely high quality fabric and construction. Not cheap though - about £150 on average. Worth in, in my view though. Also try:-
TM Lewin
Pinks
Acquascutum
Prada (very good shirts, but collars are not quite proper enough most of the time).
In general, don't go fashion, go English traditional.
On topic first - imo, best shirts are made by Richard James. Slim, but not overly fitted, simple medium height color with one button (not three or whatever by those Italian brands like Interno 8), extremely high quality fabric and construction. Not cheap though - about £150 on average. Worth in, in my view though. Also try:-
TM Lewin
Pinks
Acquascutum
Prada (very good shirts, but collars are not quite proper enough most of the time).
In general, don't go fashion, go English traditional.
seraphelle said:He actually lives in NYC, and judging from their site, 16 sur 20 sounds like a fun shopping trip for when I visit him. It looks like they charge around the prices I was expecting to pay, too. Thank you!
I couldn't find a guide either, but even if I could, tFS is usually a better resource
You are welcome
I think you won't be disappointed. I'm not a shirts guy, but when I was in there, I was tempted Chinor1z said:The sky's the limit. Just stay away from those disgusting jeans that you posted. Clearly they're cut terribly baggy, and holes in your jeans? Yeah, that's a bit 80's don't you think? No i don't think worn,baggy jeans are a bit 80's i think there right now on me.
Also, rolling up the sleeves of a dress shirt is really lame, it doesn't look good, and is definitely the opposite of classy. I'm assuming that classy is what you want to look like.... Umm no classy isn't what i'm going for rolling the sleeves isn't lame don't know who you take advice from.
Finally, t-shirts with some 'design' on the front under what I'm guessing is a fully or at the very most half-buttoned dress shirt is just grungy.Grungy? A tee under a dress shirt is grungy now?WOW guess i'm Grunge ruler of the world.
The girls will pay more attention to you if you wear clothes that DON'T have more than the simplest of designs if it is a shirt Once again,umm no girls like the clothes I posted above on me.
For jeans, go for a much more subtle distressing.... oh, and NO HOLES/PATCHES/EMBROIDERY. In fact, screw it... just wear undistressed denim and you can't go wrong. I like my holes patches and embroidery they look cool on jeans, undistressed denim reminds me of old men.
As for shoes... sneakers are great, no running shoes though.Those weren't running shoes(if you want to see my running shoes here they are:)
Finally, the belt.... ratty, worn brown with a big buckle? Crap. Clean it up and go with something that isn't overly flashy. A canvas belt in a dark color that matches the rest of your outfit is always nice since it works with everything else, but texturally offsets the rest of your look. It'll provide that younger feel without making you look like a middle-schooler out at the clubs for teen night. Not crap, I am a middleschooler.
-Blazers: 1 or two button. 3 button suits are sort of okay... but only button that middle button and don't let anyone convince you otherwise.Blazers pfft if i owned one.
-keep the tees for casual days. I still have tons of great ones, but I won't be wearing it unless I'm just hanging out. Stick with solid colors in dark/neutral tones.Everydays a casual day now.
-pants/jeans: get ones that fit. No "sagging" your pants, no "boot cut". Regular straight leg is the best look if you're anywhere from lean to slightly atheletic in build. It enhances what you want it to enhance. No sagging no bootcut? You sound like steve urkel.
And PLEASE tuck in your dress shirt. Doesn't matter that every other dude is running around with the jeans you posted and some ill fitted dress shirt untucked. Don't encourage them. Tucked in dress shirts look to old for me.
Take a look at various designer's runway photos to get ideas of color matching, and stylings. You don't have to spend a ton to look good. Although there isn't anything wrong with spending money on the sweet stuff!
Hollister,AE,and A&F don't have runway shows
PEACE!
Yes said:
Well, I think "middleschooler" just about says it all. So does diluted "fashion" from AE/AF/hell on earth. No runway show pretty much equals a company that just steals concepts from the true innovators.
As for girls loving what you wear. Let me guess... these girls own no fewer than 3 pairs of Uggs/Mukluks/some-eskimo-based-shoe, tuck their jeans into them, have jeans with bleached out thigh streaks and butt, have a return to Tiffany's bracelet, carry a monogrammed bag (either fake LV, or Guess' ripoff of the Gucci monogram most likely) and may or may not wear baby tees that say "princess", "queen", "boy's lie", or bebe across the front. Am I close?
I don't even want to bother addressing the rest. I think your responses speak volumes.
Don't you have some social studies homework to do? Or is it algebra night?
I'm loving every minute of this.
Last edited by a moderator:
halifaxshayman
Member
- Joined
- Mar 31, 2005
- Messages
- 190
- Reaction score
- 0
Johnny said:
Aye, going traditional is the safest bet for anyone. The purpose of a good shirt (or any bit of clothing) is not to grab attention, but to subtly command respect from others.
Trends are especially dangerous when it comes to shirts. Very easy to look either tacky or like you're trying too hard - or both.
English traditional is my personal recommendation as well. Though if you've got the looks and buckets of bravado Italian shirts (which direct a lot more attention to the wearer) are worth considering.
Stay on topic please 
