Who makes the best suits?

[Honey~Blade]

Can someone enlighten me?

 

[faust]

lots of answers here

http://www.thefashionspot.com/forums/showthread.php?t=11331

 

[PrinceOfCats]

The late Kit, may he rest in peace, once described Kilgour (formely Kilgour French Stanbury) as the hippest Savile Row tailors.

 

[ylang]

in my opinion

the best made suits are the ones that are custom made, with fine fabric (designer or not, for what counts is the tailoring and the fabric)

However, you may go to stores (preferably designer) if u have the opportunity, but remember unless it's couture, those suits are called "demi-mesure" (in french for "half-custom", meaning that they have a "patron" and that they copy it off their original design and adjust size--length and so forth...)

It then all depends on how much you are willing to spend for a suit. In my opinion, unless you want a suit that fits you literally like a glove and made especially for your morphology, use less expensive means...However, if you want the real deal, then opt for the custom ones (itlalian fabric such as zegna or smalto are amazing).

I also know that some shops like zara etc.. have suits, but they don't last and the fabric sucks. You can go to shops like armani, where they will have demi-mesure (unless it's couture) or others...

Many people take things too seriously when it comes to fashion in my opinion (some act like snobs by feeling that for ie fake designer bags are crap or that anything that is not branded designer sucks). what counts ultimately if you are not a fashion-victim in the worst sense, is the quality of the product...i know of many "wealthy" people who buy fakes for fun...so at the end of the day, this is all a question of marketing and snobism lol

If you want further info on the subject (suits or anything else), feel free to contact me, as i can go on for hours lol

 

[ghoulxqueen]

Rosa Cha! I got my red triangle top suit on Ebay for $50! It is soo sexy too!

 

[Honey~Blade]

Thanks a ton on all the great info guys! Really appreciate it!

 

[doo888]

If you're after some of the most reputable houses that make the best suits on the 'Row..

Huntsman
Anderson & Sheppard
Kilgour, as had been mentioned.
Henry Poole's

These houses offer both bespoke and off the peg suits for their clients. I believe British Savile Row tailoring is the best in the world (and yes there is bias in that opinion haha )

 

[amblus]

are you looking to buy off the rack, or to have a suit custom made?

are you looking for a particular style? even on saville row, each tailoring house has a distinct style.

 

[raijin]

My picks would be:

for bespoke:

Spencer Hart (I saw his show-room in Tokyo, great selection of fabrics and minimalist styling)
Brioni
Kilgour
Andersson and Shepard.. (one of the oldest and most respected on the row)

Really, everyone on savile row is great- it depends on the style you are looking for.
hard or soft suit, styling.. etc

Off-the-peg:

Thom Browne
Carol Christian Poell
Yves Saint Laurent (especially vintage)

Ozwald Boateng also seems very nice if your looking for a classic suit..

 

[mrbutom]

who makes slimmer fitting suits off the rack?

 

[tricotineacetat]

I think "best" suit ultimately refers to the proportions of the cut... at least in my eyes... you can always get something tailor-made, but unless you are not willing to go for bespoke, try and look who cuts best for your stature.

Although the collection has been so over-praised in the past, I´ve always been VERY satisfied with the quality of Dior Homme tailoring - compared to other designers (Helmut Lang, Jil Sander, Prada, etc.).

I´m not so farmiliar with Thom Browne - I saw some few pieces at Colette and they were terribly overpriced... very basic looking shirts for almost 500€, suits at almost 5000€... that´s insane...!

 

[Honey~Blade]

are you looking to buy off the rack, or to have a suit custom made?
are you looking for a particular style? even on saville row, each tailoring house has a distinct style.

I was looking to just learn about suits and what makes them good, whether it be off the rack, custom made or whatever style...coz basically I have no clue on anything

I heard good things about Henry Poole though, are they really that good? As for the off the rack, some friends of mine swear by Dior Homme. But boy their prices are kinda steep.

I haven't seen any suits by CCP yet raijin, it's making me curious

 

[Incroyable]

I think "best" suit ultimately refers to the proportions of the cut... at least in my eyes... you can always get something tailor-made, but unless you are not willing to go for bespoke, try and look who cuts best for your stature.

Although the collection has been so over-praised in the past, I´ve always been VERY satisfied with the quality of Dior Homme tailoring - compared to other designers (Helmut Lang, Jil Sander, Prada, etc.).

I´m not so farmiliar with Thom Browne - I saw some few pieces at Colette and they were terribly overpriced... very basic looking shirts for almost 500€, suits at almost 5000€... that´s insane...!

The best should be relative to how the suit is constructed which correlates with how a suit fits.

It should be fully foating canvas front with detailings like hand sewn button holes, picking at the lapels, besom pockets or flaps, working buttonholes with either the option of kissing buttons or not.

Then there is the cut of the suit which you may prefer. Saville Row's cut is very different from the Nepolitian style favored by Brioni or Kiton.

Saville Row favors an extremely militant cut with high armholes, narrow shoulders, and nipped in waist with a full skirt, and things like hacking pockets which are slanted pockets.

Ozwald Boateng, et al are not true tailors. Like Richard James only opened up a shop on Saville Row, however he is not a true tailor, merely a designer.

 

[Incroyable]

I was looking to just learn about suits and what makes them good, whether it be off the rack, custom made or whatever style...coz basically I have no clue on anything

I heard good things about Henry Poole though, are they really that good? As for the off the rack, some friends of mine swear by Dior Homme. But boy their prices are kinda steep.

I haven't seen any suits by CCP yet raijin, it's making me curious

Henry Poole is one of the oldest, and reputable firms on Saville Row.

The item we know today as the tuxedo was created by Henry Poole when they revamped the traditional tails.

 

[Incroyable]

My picks would be:

for bespoke:

Spencer Hart (I saw his show-room in Tokyo, great selection of fabrics and minimalist styling)
Brioni
Kilgour
Andersson and Shepard.. (one of the oldest and most respected on the row)

Really, everyone on savile row is great- it depends on the style you are looking for.
hard or soft suit, styling.. etc

Off-the-peg:

Thom Browne
Carol Christian Poell
Yves Saint Laurent (especially vintage)

Ozwald Boateng also seems very nice if your looking for a classic suit..

Brioni's bespoke is only available at their flagship store in Rome & recently Milan.

 

[Incroyable]

If you're female I'd suggest Kiton Donna.

Although Marlene Dietrich's suits, and tuxedoes were tailored by Knize of Vienna another highly reputable firm.

 

[Honey~Blade]

What are kissing buttons?

 

[|PerfectTonight|]

Dior Homme ss 2005 has hot suits.

 

[dhclam]

IMO, I think Richard James (www.richardjames.co.uk) cuts really well, and he has a very well-developed collection for urban men, in both suit and shirt, also with other daily necessities. Otherwise, for off the peg pieces, although I don't particularly like "the show" in the last few season, but I got to say Dior Homme, they have some very well-tailored basic suits available in shop, no doubt about it.
I personally don't like Thom Browne much, he makes those boxy jkt and shortened trousers that reminds me of what American men wore in the 50s, they're really not my cuppa.

 

[raijin]

I've had some very big quality issues with Dior Homme suits in the past and so have some other people. (Especially for the price) It also seems the cutting is getting larger every season.

Honey~Blade, CCP does a unique slim-cut with peaked shoulders. His suits have a beautiful fit. What sets him apart from the crowd is that he always uses interesting experimental fabrics that he has designed himself.

As for Thom Browne, I don't like the cropped trousers much - but so much detail and time go into his pieces. I saw a great gray herringbone long coat in colette, very minimalist with hidden buttons.