HeatherAnne
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Jan 24, 2008
- Messages
- 24,229
- Reaction score
- 977
Wow, could Joan be any more lifeless?
Announcing... The 2nd Annual theFashionSpot Awards. Vote NOW via the links below:
Designer of the YearThank you for participating!
VOTING WILL CLOSE 27/12/2024 EOD!
online.wsj.comNicolas Ghesquière Innovates at the Legendary House of Louis Vuitton
After being named artistic director of Louis Vuitton’s women’s collections last year, fashion designer Nicolas Ghesquière ushers in a new chapter at one of the crown jewels of the LVMH empire, while striking a balance between the past and the future
By Christina Passariello
06 November 2014 08:24 WIB
HERE’S WHAT Nicolas Ghesquière thought Louis Vuitton needed: a new logo. It was an unlikely place to begin revamping the world’s biggest luxury-goods brand. Vuitton’s brown-and-gold monogram is one of the most recognizable on the planet. But Ghesquière, who joined Vuitton a year ago as artistic director of its women’s collections, said he wanted “something easier and more supple, less geometric and rounder” to symbolize the new style at the legendary trunk maker.
He gave his team a brief: Draw a pawnlike icon to adorn his new line of clothes. But after receiving the team’s sketches, he was stumped. Nothing matched his vision. So the designer looked to the past for inspiration. In a photo from the archives of one of Vuitton’s first boutiques, dating to “eighteen-hundred-I-don’t-know-what,” he spied the house’s slanted initials inside a circle above the door. The revived logo is now etched on the clasp of Ghesquière’s trunk-shaped clutches. “The fact that I found it reconfirmed to me that the idea was legitimate, that we need a logo now on clothes that synthesizes a round shape,” says Ghesquière, snapping his fingers for emphasis.
Most designers at storied fashion houses are haunted by the past. Ghesquière had become burdened by the future. During the 15 years he spent as the artistic director of Balenciaga, starting in 1997, he became known for his cutting-edge designs that popularized everything from rubber and plastic to scuba fabric. Of course, Balenciaga had rich archives (which Ghesquière helped assemble). But Ghesquière’s references to the work of Cristóbal Balenciaga were conceptual, not literal. This created an expectation that he would inexorably push forward. “I’ve always been tagged as a futurist designer, and I don’t like the idea very much,” says Ghesquière, sitting in Louis Vuitton’s offices on the banks of the Seine. “For me, the future is now.”
In his new chapter at Vuitton, Ghesquière is trying to find a balance between the past and the future. But it’s not as simple as believing in the present. In a typewriter-font letter to the guests of his first Vuitton fashion show, in March, Ghesquière referred to “the desire for timelessness.” The designer has found meaning in creating fashion by looking backward. With its long history, Vuitton embodies his quest for timelessness. “You always forget that one day the classics were new. You had to find an idea that would provoke or respond to functionality in our world,” says Ghesquière. He is developing a new look by marrying Vuitton’s deep expertise in leather manufacturing with new technology and time-tested silhouettes. “In my previous role, there was always this idea of heritage and history, but I was really into the research. Now I’m more mature, so I innovate, but with this notion that the real quest is to establish great classics.”
Louis Vuitton is also stretched between its past and the future. For years, Vuitton applied its famous monogram, which dates to 1896, to millions of canvas bags and accessories. (The house itself is more than four decades older.) They are the primary source of the house’s fortune—an estimated $9.7 billion in annual sales and an operating margin that hovers around 45 percent. Vuitton is arguably the most important brand at LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton, the French luxury-goods giant that also owns such brands as Céline and Fendi in fashion, Moët & Chandon Champagne, Hennessy cognac and Christian Dior perfumes.
But Vuitton had saturated the market with its logo. Sales stagnated. Analysts began talking of “logo fatigue” and questioned how a brand could represent the pinnacle of luxury and exclusivity if its name was everywhere. Louis Vuitton management thought investing more in fashion could be the answer. Since the late 1990s, the house had produced a high-end ready-to-wear line. But its founding designer, Marc Jacobs, left in 2013 to focus on his eponymous line.
Enter Ghesquière, who had cut ties with Balenciaga, part of LVMH rival Kering, a year earlier. Ghesquière had known Delphine Arnault for a few years. Arnault, the daughter of LVMH chairman Bernard Arnault, had recently made the leap from Dior to Vuitton to head up its products. Ghesquière began meeting with Delphine, and later with her father and Vuitton’s recently arrived chief executive, Michael Burke. “It’s important to have a point of view,” says Delphine Arnault. “Nicolas has always had a very precise point of view on shapes and fabrics. He is a rare talent.”
Some of his first designs for Vuitton debuted on the red carpet, as worn by the actress Jennifer Connelly, whom Ghesquière describes as one of his heroines. Connelly thinks Vuitton and Ghesquière are perfectly suited to each other. “The name Vuitton is synonymous with adventure, and Nicolas, to me, is such a pioneer,” she says. “The clothes that I see, they remind me of something that I know I love, and yet they’re nothing that I’ve seen before.”
Ghesquière himself is petite and crackling with energy. He speaks in rapid-fire French and rolls his hands about in emphasis. At 43, he still looks boyish but has intense dark eyebrows that convey his seriousness. He is dressed in black jeans, a yellow-and-black-plaid shirt and an old Rolex. He barely pauses to sip his espresso as he talks about the need he saw at Vuitton. “History and heritage is so much a part of the vision people have of Louis Vuitton—they needed someone with an anticipatory vision,” says Ghesquière. “The idea was that fashion must be the flag, the pillar, and that it must be directional.” The Arnaults and Burke were betting that Ghesquière’s fresh eye could shuck off the aftertaste of logo fatigue.
Ghesquière comes with a coterie of style icons, such as Connelly and Charlotte Gainsbourg, who are drawn to his bold fashion statements. Gainsbourg has been a devotee of his since his early days at Balenciaga when he began dressing her. “I wasn’t very comfortable with the way I looked, and he made it fun,” says Gainsbourg. “I was keeping my figure but daring a little bit more, which made it quite exciting.” She is one of many fans who have followed him to Vuitton (and also considers him a family friend). He provides her with made-to-order dresses for special occasions, such as a sleeveless black-leather dress that seamstresses were applying silver sequins to over the summer. In early September, she wore it at the Toronto International Film Festival. “His big strength is that he’s able to be classic and at the same time completely futuristic in the fabrics, in the mix of colors, and quite daring,” says Gainsbourg. “But it’s all with very classical techniques. It’s not just futuristic, it’s based on something really solid.”
For the self-taught Ghesquière, Vuitton represents a kind of graduation. Ghesquière grew up in Loudon, in Poitou-Charentes, between Bordeaux and the Loire Valley, a region west of Paris known for its wine. As a teenager, he decided he wanted to go into fashion. But he resisted parental pressure to go to design school and instead began working at Parisian houses.
His first big break came at age 18, when he got a job with Jean Paul Gaultier. Ghesquière credits Gaultier for giving him “my eye and my hand.”
“It was complicated, though, because all the people around me were just out of school or still in school at 18,” he recalls. “I didn’t have a complex about it, but I always had the impression that I was out of step. I already had a position that was in advance of my age.” Ghesquière did some freelance gigs, including for Balenciaga, which was subsisting on licensing deals since its founder, Cristóbal Balenciaga, had died more than two decades earlier. That became his education. “For a long time I had a real, not frustration, but doubt” about not having gone to fashion school, Ghesquière says. “It’s a time for pure experimentation—for pure research, to refine your perspective and to create things and to materialize things as an exercise. I had it while working.”
Ghesquière saw his tenure at Balenciaga as one long learning curve, but the rest of the fashion world saw it as one groundbreaking collection after another. His biggest commercial success was the Lariat bag, but what has permeated all levels of fashion are the silhouettes he defined. There were high-waisted skinny pants paired with a billowing top, cropped motorcycle jackets and gladiator sandals.
Although his avant-garde designs were celebrated by the fashion press, Balenciaga began generating more of its sales through Ghesquière’s reinterpretations of the founder’s classic designs. “I developed commercial collections for Balenciaga, but I think the real challenge is that this catwalk clothing becomes reality,” says Ghesquière. He left the brand suddenly at the end of 2012 after 15 years at its helm. (Balenciaga and Ghesquière recently agreed to try to find an out-of-court settlement to a lawsuit that the brand filed against its former designer for comments he made about his departure.) “Balenciaga is a great tale even if it didn’t end very well,” he says.
Vuitton was a different play. Unlike Balenciaga, which had disappeared from the map after its founding designer’s death, Vuitton had never fallen out of the public eye. Louis Vuitton’s ancestors passed the house down within the family until the 1980s, when Arnault took control.
In his discussions to join Vuitton, Ghesquière kept coming back to the house’s classics. Part of his pitch was to design a new kind of bag. “I wanted to make a clutch that would be functional for today’s woman. It could be an evening bag or a little day bag, but one that carries the values of the brand,” says Ghesquière. “The simplest idea was the reproduction—not the reduction—of the unique design of the iconic trunks of Vuitton.” He came up with a proposal for a miniature trunk—boxy and heavy with hardware—with a thin leather strap.
Bernard Arnault, who has been keeping a closer eye on Vuitton since its sales growth stalled, was particularly smitten with the idea, Ghesquière says. “He said to me, ‘It’s formidable!’ I was very struck by his commentary, which was, ‘And it will be very beautiful on display—in clusters, it will work very well,’ ” Ghesquière says. “He has a strategic vision but also an aesthetic vision that goes as far as how we can do merchandising in the boutique, and I share that, too.”
FROM THE MOMENT GHESQUIÈRE got the job last November, it was a mad dash to get his first collection ready for the March show. The mini trunks were rushed out by Vuitton’s made-to-order workshop in the northern Paris suburb of Asnières, which usually makes much larger trunks. “Everyone had to change the scale of their vision,” Ghesquière says. The “Petite Malle” was made in several colors and patterns, including the much-maligned classic monogram, and it bears Ghesquière’s old-is-new-again pawn-style logo.
He tapped Vuitton’s expertise in other areas to develop ready-to-wear. First, there was leather—one of Ghesquière’s signature materials. Vuitton’s craftsmen can shave leather into an ultrafine thickness for bags; Ghesquière tasked them to do the same for clothing. For the first time, the leather workshop made dresses for the runway. Some dresses had leather bodices paired with skirts made of fabric interspersed with scale-shaped embroidery in an escargot pattern. “In bags as in clothing, lightness is super important. That’s something I was seeking a lot before, and here it’s coming to fruition,” says Ghesquière. “It’s very modern—clothing that has a beautiful shape, beautiful architecture and construction and beautiful quality materials, and at the same time it doesn’t add 10 kilos.” He began working with techniques that were new to him, such as thermo-shaping leather, or using ultrasound to create patterns. He recently got a new machine that fuses two materials with heat to create a perfect finish.
The silhouette hit on one of his old favorites—the ’70s. There were big collars and A-line skirts, waists accentuated by slipknot belts and vintage-looking leather coats. “I have a lot of affection for hybrid clothes, which I did a lot, more strange mixes, but I’ve digested that now,” he says. “Now I want above all else that the clothes be very recognizable and very functional.”
Ghesquière likes to work in the middle of the studio on the second floor of Vuitton’s headquarters overlooking the Seine. “I don’t have an office,” he says. “I didn’t want one. It’s open space.” One recent morning, he and Vuitton’s marketing team met in the spacious room with ivory carpet and mirrored columns to review the demand for his mini trunks. “It’s an enormous commercial success,” he says, adding that the bags were pre-ordered in substantial quantities.
The question is whether creating new classics for Vuitton will be enough to fulfill Ghesquière. He has long toyed with the idea of starting his own house. And joining the world’s biggest luxury-goods group hasn’t quelled that. “I’d be lying if I said I didn’t want to do it,” Ghesquière admits. “I would like to do it, but each thing in its time. Today I dedicate myself to Louis Vuitton without forgetting that I have wishes, desires.” Designing for two houses at once rarely goes well, he says. And he has set the bar high for launching his own venture. “If it’s to reproduce on a smaller scale what is done on a large scale, honestly, no, it’s not interesting,” he says. “And that’s not at all the way that I one day envisage launching myself, especially having experienced the biggest existing model.”
For the moment, Ghesquière isn’t too worried about the future. “ Azzedine Alaïa always says to me, ‘In any case, you start fashion at 40 years old; you shouldn’t start earlier,’ ” Ghesquière says. “I’m 43 now. So I should have started three years ago. I like that because it gives me lots of time.”
Photography by Jamie Hawkesworth for WSJ. Magazine, Styling by Marie-Amélie Sauvé
Accompanying articleFull story and cover in HQ:
WSJ Magazine
online.wsj.comLil Buck Elevates Jookin’ to an Art
Dancer Lil Buck combined a style of Memphis street dancing with the rigor of classical ballet, astonishing everyone from Madonna to Damian Woetzel with his graceful moves
By Jason Gay
06 November 2014 08:19 WIB
IT WAS MORNING, breakfast time, in the Bowery Hotel in downtown New York City, and in the plush, low-lit lobby, a hushed crowd in expensive-looking T-shirts and denim huddled over laptops and lingered over cappuccinos. In the middle of the room, the dancer Lil Buck was talking about music and anticipation—how he’s learned in his 26 years to not just feel a rhythm but to predict what’s coming next, staying one step ahead, as if he, not the musician, were in control of the song. “I try to feel like, ‘How would I want the beat to go?’ ” Lil Buck said. He began to elaborate further, but then stopped. “I can give you a visual.”
Lil Buck reached for his smartphone and, with a magician’s flair, began flicking a thumb through his playlist, keeping the screen pointed directly at me, away from his eyes. After scrolling for a few seconds, he dialed up a random song—it turned out to be “Forbidden Love” by the composer Abel Korzeniowski, off the soundtrack to the 2013 film Romeo and Juliet. As a piano melody began, Lil Buck lifted himself out of his chair in his baseball cap and T-shirt and black pants and started to move, curling his neck and unraveling his long arms. “I jump inside of the music,” he said, lifting his toes off the floor. “I mess with the tempo. You know how with an equalizer, you can see the music go up and down? That’s what I do.” He bent his knees and glided in small squares on the carpet, appearing to levitate. “Being a vessel for sound. You see it in my body.”
Behind him, a handful of hotel guests looked over at the man suddenly dancing in the lobby. This was jaded New York City, where everybody thinks they have already seen everything, but it was hard not to be entranced. This elegant ripple of movement and footwork, exuberant and seemingly gravity resistant—this is why people around the planet have clamored to watch Lil Buck, why in just a few years he has progressed from street performances and open auditions to ovations in New York and China and collaborations with the likes of Yo-Yo Ma and Madonna at the Super Bowl. “Lil Buck is one of a kind,” said Benjamin Millepied, the director of dance at the Paris Opera Ballet. He could dance like this anywhere. He could do this in a concert hall, on the Great Wall of China or in a TV commercial (that was Lil Buck dancing as the lead hamster in that endlessly played KIA ad)—or here, in a boutique hotel, over morning coffee. He was a step ahead of the music, as if occupying a new kind of body.
“I still haven’t seen anybody do a lot of the things that I do,” Lil Buck said. “I’m my own entity. I’m my own alien.”
LIL BUCK ROSE TO FAME, as so many people do these days, with an Internet moment. If you go to YouTube, you can find it: a 2011 performance with Yo-Yo Ma at an arts benefit in Los Angeles. It is a breezy outdoor setting, and as the cellist begins to play Camille Saint-Saëns ’s “The Swan,” Lil Buck flutters his arms and glides around the concrete on his sneakers. As he arcs his back, angles his neck and fully inhabits the song, it becomes obvious that the audience has never seen anything quite like him before. A few times, you can hear someone gasp.
This was not the first time Lil Buck had performed “The Swan”—he’d developed the piece in 2007, back in his home city of Memphis, Tennessee, with one of his early dance mentors, Katie Smythe. But among the audience members this time was the film director Spike Jonze (Being John Malkovich, Her), who captured the performance on his phone and uploaded it. To date “The Swan” has more than 2.7 million views—not a massive number compared to, say, a Katy Perry video, but still extraordinary for what is essentially a home video of a dance collaboration.
The video made Lil Buck an Internet sensation, but his success had hardly arrived overnight. Born Charles Riley in Chicago in 1988, Lil Buck—a childhood nickname that stuck—was raised in Memphis, where in his early adolescence he became fascinated by jookin’, a locally grown dance movement rooted in hip-hop and earlier forms of street dancing, such as the Gangsta Walk. Memphis jookin’ emphasized fluidity and footwork, sometimes on tiptoes; at its best, it offered the illusion of floating in slow motion. Lil Buck became obsessed. He practiced religiously, wearing out sneakers and competing in “battles” against young Memphis talent. “He started doing a lot of stuff with his ankles, balancing on his toe as long as he could,” said Craten “Jai” Armmer Jr., a musician and filmmaker who was chronicling the jookin’ scene at the time and is now Lil Buck’s manager. “Buck has always been an extreme style dancer.”
“I didn’t really have that natural feel when I first got into it,” Lil Buck recalled. “I just jumped into it, trying crazy things.”
In his teens, Lil Buck began dancing at Memphis’s New Ballet Ensemble and School, where his jookin’ was interjected with a dose of the discipline and rigor of ballet. From the start, his talent appeared undeniable, and the school took him under its wing, providing him with a scholarship and a job. “His charisma as a performer, it’s magic,” said Smythe, New Ballet’s CEO and artistic director. She believes the ballet instruction Lil Buck received helped with his turns, his balance and what Smythe called his verticality, giving his jookin’ a new height and posture. “He started to adopt elements from each form into his improvisation, trying things out and playing with them,” Smythe said. “All of a sudden, his jookin’ was different from everyone else’s.”
At 19, Lil Buck set out for Los Angeles, where he encountered Damian Woetzel, an acclaimed director and former principal dancer for the New York City Ballet. Woetzel’s wife, the former NYCB prima ballerina Heather Watts, had been an early admirer of Lil Buck’s talent—“Buck makes you want to cry,” she told me—and Woetzel was similarly taken. Lil Buck had already experienced some professional breakthroughs—he’d choreographed a rollicking music video, “Tightrope,” for the singer Janelle Monáe—but the well-connected Woetzel introduced him to a new wave of admirers, including Yo-Yo Ma. “When I met him, [his success] was very much built on astonishment at his dancing ability,” Woetzel said. “But there was a whole other side, his ability to fuse worlds.”
That fusing ability may be Lil Buck’s signature gift, his apparent ease at moving between artistic settings and collaborators, picking up pieces and techniques and translating them into something original. Lil Buck has often been described as a 21st-century dancer, and like a viral phenomenon, there is something modern and platform-agnostic about his style; it works before an art-world audience or among school kids or on TV. In the past few years, Lil Buck has tried a little bit of everything. He’s been an artist in residence at the Vail International Dance Festival and the Aspen Institute; he traveled to Beijing with Yo-Yo Ma (and Meryl Streep) for a U.S.–China cultural summit; he served as a judge on the show So You Think You Can Dance; he made his debut with the New York City Ballet in a piece choreographed in collaboration with the French artist JR. A year ago, he performed with Cirque du Soleil in a Michael Jackson–inspired show; before that, Lil Buck went out on the road with Madonna. You can find video of him in Madonna’s Cleopatra-themed 2012 Super Bowl halftime show, performing a nimble backflip before an audience of hundreds of millions. (“Pressure,” Lil Buck said, smiling.) Not long ago, he said, Madonna had sent him a pair of Riccardo Tisci–designed Nikes as a birthday gift. “He adapts to the environment he’s in,” said the filmmaker Ole Schell, who made a short film about Lil Buck’s trip to China.
This fluidity has elevated Lil Buck to a rare position: the dancer as emerging pop star. Over the past generation and a half, mainstream culture has relegated dancers mostly to backup ornamentation; the familiar scene is the artist singing with a cluster of choreographed bodies, their faces often obscured, names seldom promoted. Lil Buck, conversely, has been the solo star of his own Gap commercial; he has chatted about jookin’ with Stephen Colbert on The Colbert Report. “I think he’s going to make dance more important,” said Watts. “He is making dance more important. Young people know who Lil Buck is.”
Lil Buck is polite about this type of praise but doesn’t take his growing celebrity for granted. He is not so far removed from humbler days of L.A. auditions and realizes there are many extraordinary talents who would crave such opportunities. “I strongly believe dance has its own power,” he said. “It’s not for background. I believe you can be just as entertained watching dancers without other artists in front of them.” (Madonna, he said, has been a real advocate: “She started off as a dancer and really understands dancers. She gets to know you as an individual artist.”) Already Lil Buck has been described as the Baryshnikov of jookin’, and he speaks reverentially of Fred Astaire and Gene Kelly. But at a certain point the comparisons stop, and he occupies his own individual orbit. “I want to be Lil Buck,” he said. “I want to be known for Lil Buck.”
“He’s very much his own guy,” said Woetzel. “He’s sui generis. It’s not been done.”
As his profile has grown, Lil Buck’s schedule has become even more hectic—though he’s based in Las Vegas, more and more of his life unfolds on airplanes and in hotels. “It still feels nonstop,” he said. He admitted there are moments when he wakes up and isn’t certain where he is. “It’s happened a few times.” Maintaining relationships is difficult. “I am very single right now,” Lil Buck said. He leaned over the table and spoke directly into my tape recorder, as if to emphasize the point. “Single ladies, you know what I am saying? You want to come to a show?” He laughed. “I’m single, but it’s working for me. It’s hard to have a relationship when you’re traveling so much.”
Artistically, these are important years. Watts believes most dancers enter their physical prime in their late 20s and early 30s; Lil Buck is still developing, pushing the boundaries of his body, which has grown leaner partly as the result of a vegan diet. (In September, Lil Buck was taking a rare rest after spraining an ankle.) Earlier in the summer, before a residency in Aspen, he had traveled to Paris to make a short film with the artist JR. “He likes to say yes,” said Woetzel. “But you can’t do everything.” Smythe hopes he will return to Memphis for additional ballet work; she sounded a bit like Yoda hoping Luke Skywalker would return for more Jedi training.
Lil Buck feels he is just getting started, but he has visions for his post-performing future, including building his own company and serving as its artistic director. “I know my body won’t be able to do all this crazy stuff forever,” he said. He knows there will soon be other great dancers chasing after him. They already are, especially back in Memphis, where Lil Buck’s brilliant and improbable journey started. “I love it,” Lil Buck said. “I want the younger guys to come up to me and say, ‘Man, I’ll battle you one day. I’m going to get you.’ I’m like, ‘I hope so! That means you’ve got to go harder than I went. And I’m still going hard. So good luck with that!’ ”
online.wsj.comDr. Dre and Jimmy Iovine’s School for Innovation
After the runaway success of Beats—recently bought by Apple for $3 billion—the duo is launching a new academy at the University of Southern California with the goal of inspiring the next generation of entrepreneurs
By Josh Eells
06 November 2014 08:52 WIB
IF JIMMY IOVINE has a trademark, it’s his hat. For decades, the record producer turned label boss turned headphones magnate turned all-around music-biz oracle has rarely appeared in public without something atop his head, be it a casual wintry wool knit number or a navy blue baseball cap featuring the logo of his multi-billion-dollar corporation, Beats. What Steve Jobs was to mock turtlenecks or Phil Knight is to the swoosh, Iovine is to hats. And yet, it was still slightly incongruous to see him last May, standing at a podium in front of the University of Southern California’s graduating class of 2014, sporting a poofy doctoral tam with a gold tassel dangling from its side.
Iovine was there to deliver USC’s commencement speech, in which he regaled the graduates with a story about making tea for John Lennon and quoted lines from his “favorite poet,” R. Kelly. But he also took the opportunity to promote his latest project: an interdisciplinary program called the USC Jimmy Iovine and Andre Young Academy for Arts, Technology and the Business of Innovation. A joint venture between Iovine and his business partner, Andre Young—better known as the hip-hop super-producer Dr. Dre—the academy, which matriculated its inaugural 31-member freshman class in August, features a curriculum that weds its three titular disciplines (art, tech and commerce) in a way that befits the current cultural landscape. They want to create a dream factory, Iovine said in his speech, that will “inspire, challenge, and satisfy the curiosity of the next wave of game-changers.”
Iovine and Dre know about changing the game. For two and a half decades, Iovine, 61, was the head of Interscope Records (later Interscope Geffen A&M), where he helped oversee the careers of U2, Lady Gaga, Gwen Stefani and the Black Eyed Peas. Dr. Dre, 49, is a legendary producer with six Grammys and hundreds of millions in sales to his name, who has helped guide proteges such as Snoop Dogg, 50 Cent and Eminem. Together, they launched their company, Beats Electronics, in 2008, building it from a start-up headphone manufacturer with cool celebrity endorsements into a technology brand so lucrative that Apple recently paid $3 billion for it. Now Dre and Iovine are using $70 million to fund their school.
As Iovine explains it, the school is as much an investment in their own future as it is philanthropy. “We wanted to build a school that we feel is what the entertainment industry needs right now,” he says. “There’s a new kid in town, and he’s brought up on an iPad from one and a half years old. But the problem with some of the companies up north [in Silicon Valley] is that they really are culturally inept. I’ve been shocked at the different species in Northern and Southern California—we don’t even speak the same language. The kid who’s going to have an advantage in the entertainment industry today is the kid who speaks both languages: technology and liberal arts. That’s what this school is about.
“The problem with the school system is that a lot of it’s cookie-cutter,” he adds, “so what we’re trying to do is disrupt it a bit.”
In other words: They’ve revolutionized hip-hop. They’ve revolutionized headphones. Now can they revolutionize college?
ON A BLAZING AFTERNOON at the end of August, Iovine and Dre are at a mansion in Encino, California, watching a fake pool party take place. The mansion doesn’t belong to either of them; it’s a location for a movie about Dr. Dre’s old hip-hop group, N.W.A., which is filming now and scheduled to be released next year. Production assistants scurry from room to room, and scantily clad extras drift by in early-’90s-era swimwear. Dre’s wife of 18 years, Nicole, is also on set. “This is a big deal,” Dr. Dre says with a sly grin. “We got Jimmy to the Valley.” (Iovine, who’s not a fan of inconvenience, jokes that he almost founded the academy at UCLA instead, because it’s closer to his home in Santa Monica. “I could walk there!” he says, laughing. “Every time I’d drive to USC, I’d be like, how much is this costing?”)
Growing up in Compton, California, Andre Young attended Centennial High School but was a so-so student and dropped out in order to pursue music. He spent his college-age years DJ’ing at clubs, until he and his friend Eazy-E formed N.W.A. (Ice Cube joined soon thereafter.) Although he grew up just 10 miles from the USC campus and was a big Trojans football fan, it was never a real possibility for Dre to go there. “I would have loved to go to that school,” Dre says wistfully. “But I didn’t have that opportunity.”
Iovine was raised similarly far from academia, the son of a longshoreman in Red Hook, Brooklyn. He spent a year and a half at Manhattan’s John Jay College of Criminal Justice, but it was “a complete bust.” “School was not my thing,” Iovine says. “I put down the wrong thing on the application—I checked off five city schools, and that was the one they sent me to. There were 48 people in the class, and 46 were cops. The only thing I knew about criminology was Batman.” At 19 he got a job sweeping the floors at a Manhattan recording studio, and from there worked his way into a gig as a recording engineer for John Lennon. Within a few years, he was engineering albums for Bruce Springsteen and Tom Petty.
Dre and Iovine met in 1992, after Dre had put the finishing touches on his first solo album, The Chronic. Iovine had co-founded Interscope two years earlier, and he was looking for some talent. “I wasn’t a fan of hip-hop,” Iovine recalls. “They were playing me hip-hop because Interscope was going to be in the hip-hop business, but it all sounded muddy to me. I’m a recording engineer—it just offended me sonically. Then Dre brought in his record, and it sounded as cool as Pink Floyd or Sgt. Pepper’s. I said, ‘Who mixed this?’ and he said, ‘Me.’ And I said, ‘No, no, but who engineered it?’ And he said, ‘Me!’ And I said, ‘OK, I’m getting into business with you.’ ”
Dre went on to form his own subsidiary of Interscope, Aftermath, which launched the careers of 50 Cent and Eminem. He and Iovine say the qualities that made them mesh well as record executives also helped them succeed with Beats: “We just trust each other,” Iovine says. “He’s as good a producer and engineer as Michael Jordan is a basketball player. He has an incredible patience that I don’t. And he’s a good touchstone for me. Every time we start going off one way, he’ll say, ‘Nah, man—we’re getting corny.’ ”
Beats started with a chance run-in on the beach. Iovine was in Malibu, at his friend David Geffen ’s house, when he decided to go for a stroll. He happened upon Dr. Dre, who was out on the balcony of his own house nearby. Dre told him he’d been approached a few days earlier by an athletic company about doing a shoe line; his lawyer wanted him to do it, but Dre wasn’t sure. (“I’m not into fashion,” he says. “I wear the same s— every day.”) He asked Iovine for his thoughts. Iovine’s immortal response: “F— sneakers—let’s make speakers.”
“It’s a good thing they didn’t want to sell aluminum,” Iovine jokes now. “I’m not sure what rhymes with that.”
Beats headphones have been criticized by audiophiles who insist they’re far from the best headphones on the market. Yet helped by Dre’s musical cachet, Iovine’s marketing savvy and a raft of celebrity endorsements ( Justin Bieber, Lady Gaga, LeBron James), the company earned $1.2 billion last year alone. It can make a pair of headphones for $40 that sells for over $200; one Swarovski-studded model retails for more than $1,000. And Marc Jacobs incorporated Beats headphones into his runway show this fall.
Earlier this year Beats expanded its mission, unveiling a music-streaming service, Beats Music, designed to compete with the Pandoras and Spotifys of the world. It’s not immediately obvious that headphones would lead to streaming; after all, it’s not like Nike ever broadcast a basketball game. But Iovine has been an advocate of streaming for years. “Streaming was actually first,” he says. “I couldn’t get it done. I didn’t have the platform. But once I had Beats, I had the platform. It’s a piece of equipment, a piece of hardware. And I wanted to build a piece of software that worked with it.”
When Apple announced it was acquiring Beats, it was the culmination of a long flirtation between the two companies. Thirteen years ago, Iovine was one of the first people Steve Jobs showed iTunes to, when Jobs was trying to get the music industry on board with the idea. And Iovine had been shopping a subscription music service to Apple, including to Jobs personally, within a couple of years of the launch of iTunes. (Jobs, long a skeptic of subscription services, passed.) “Every deal I made, I offered to Apple,” Iovine says. “I only wanted to work with Apple.”
Since the acquisition, analysts have focused on three possible explanations for why Apple wanted Beats. One is that it’s buying the hardware: As Apple expands into more wearable products (e.g., its new smartwatch), Beats gives it a valuable foothold, especially in the youth market. Second is that it’s buying its software: the proprietary algorithms and expert-curated playlists that it hopes will position Beats ahead of its streaming rivals. The third theory is the most intriguing: What Apple is really buying are Iovine and Dre. Since Jobs died, the thinking goes, Apple has lacked the kind of magnetic personality who can serve as the company’s face—someone with creative vision, deep industry ties and the ability to close a deal. In musical terms, it needs a frontman. As Jobs’s biographer Walter Isaacson recently speculated to Billboard, Iovine, especially, might be that face.
For his part, Iovine shrugs this off. “I’m just the ornament on the hood—and I don’t mean because I’m sexy.”
Iovine and Dre won’t, or perhaps can’t, share many specifics about their new roles at Apple just yet. But listening to them talk, it’s clear that what’s occupying their thoughts right now is the idea of integrating the people who create art with those who distribute it. “I think what you’re seeing more and more are companies that are designed to do multiple things,” Iovine says. “If you look at the Beats model, there’s software and hardware. Look at what Amazon is doing; look at what Google’s trying to do. It’s technology and content in one.” As both an example and a cautionary tale, he cites Sony. “They had it,” Iovine says. “They had the Walkman, they had the PlayStation. And they bought Columbia Pictures and Columbia Records, so they had the content. But they never finished the thought—and Apple ended up with the products. Where do you think Steve got the idea?”
At heart, this is what the Iovine and Young Academy is about—creating the kind of student who can design the next PlayStation and sell it, too. Iovine and Dre aren’t exactly drawing up lesson plans or keeping office hours. (As Iovine likes to point out, David Geffen doesn’t teach surgery at his medical school.) But they are scheduled to appear at the academy’s lecture series, and Iovine recently hosted a barbecue for the incoming freshmen at his house.
“Dre, how did you find talking to the kids the other day?” he asks.
“I mean, I was the one doing most of the talking,” Dre says.
Iovine chuckles. “They were terrified!”
“There are a lot of other programs around the country that marry business and technology,” says Erica Muhl, the dean of USC’s Roski School of Art and Design and the Iovine and Young Academy’s first executive director. “But they’re all missing that arts and cultural component. The difference with us is we start with the arts part.” Says Iovine: “We want kids who can work at Beats or at Apple.”
Iovine and Dre are reluctant to make too many predictions about where the entertainment industry is headed. (“I don’t want anyone stealing my ideas,” Iovine jokes.) But they’re also banking on the fact that they won’t always have to be the ones coming up with the ideas. On the third day of class at the Iovine and Young Academy, the freshmen are gathered in the main classroom/lounge—a futuristic, high-ceilinged space they’ve dubbed The Garage. One of them is the inventor of a jacket he called “the swag suit,” which harnesses its own friction to generate electricity; another is an accomplished guitar player whose audition video, Dre says, “gave me chills.” On one wall—which is lined with MakerBot 3-D printers and covered in write-on “idea paint” for brainstorming purposes—hangs a poster with Iovine’s face on it. Below it, the caption reads: “Think you’re as innovative as this guy? He’s betting on it.”
Photography by Maciek Kobielski for WSJ. Magazine
online.wsj.comKara Walker’s Thought-Provoking Art
On the heels of her wildly successful installation at the Domino Sugar Factory in New York, the artist Kara Walker prepares for a new exhibition and opens up about what drives her fearless exploration of race and sexuality
By Carol Kino
06 November 2014 08:43 WIB
EIGHTEEN MONTHS AGO, the artist Kara Walker found herself at the stove, boiling up pots of sugar and water. It was not for an elaborate dessert but rather an experiment for a piece at the former Domino Sugar refinery in Williamsburg, one of New York City’s most picturesquely decaying industrial landmarks. The public art group Creative Time had suggested the location, and despite her reservations—“Public art has so many pitfalls”—she was taken by the cavernous, sweet-smelling space, soon to be razed for a condo development. “Something resonated with me there,” Walker says. “It was a challenge.”
Walker, 44, who initially envisioned a performance piece, quickly began playing with ideas—making sketches with molasses, creating drawings and collages that showed women sweeping up chicken feathers or dancing on giant stripper poles. But it was only while perusing Sweetness and Power: The Place of Sugar in Modern History, Sidney W. Mintz’s 1985 tome on sugar’s fraught legacy, that her direction crystallized. Reading about “subtleties,” the elaborate medieval sugar sculptures displayed as symbols of kingly power at royal feasts, she realized she had to make a subtlety herself—albeit one that was decidedly unsubtle. “This was not for a small segment of the art world,” Walker says. “It had to be bigger.”
When she realized that meant making a huge sculpture—something she’d never done before, and the most traditional sort of public artwork besides—Walker hesitated. “But then I said, ‘Stick with it. Be in the moment!’ So I did. And then I thought, ‘Oh, yeah!’ ”
When the piece finally went up in May, it was so massive that it seemed to loom over the city itself. For two months, it dominated conversations and Instagram feeds: a 35-foot-tall and 75-foot-long sphinx, built with 30 tons of white sugar. Called A Subtlety, or the Marvelous Sugar Baby, its leonine body was, like much of Walker’s work, built for controversy, with pendulous breasts, an Aunt Jemima–esque face and kerchief, a Kim Kardashian rump and a vulva so enormous one critic likened it to a temple entrance. Some 130,000 visitors—including Beyoncé, Jay-Z and their daughter, Blue Ivy—came to view it, with lines that sometimes extended for eight blocks.
“The scale was such that one couldn’t tell if it was art or a tourist attraction,” says Nato Thompson, Creative Time’s chief curator. (The sculpture was demolished after the exhibit ended on July 6.)
Surrounded by 14 statues of small boy attendants, some of their disintegrating brown sugar bodies dripping with molasses, the installation was a monument to the slave labor that enabled sugar to become an everyday commodity. Yet the reactions it provoked were wide ranging, from despair over slavery and sadness about the city’s gentrification, to lectures about obesity and joy at the sheer spectacle. It prompted much discussion, too, primarily regarding Walker’s embrace of racial and sexual caricatures, which were seen as alternately degrading or empowering. Walker seems to be the only person who wasn’t appalled when viewers took titillating selfies with the piece. “Part of me understands that half of the world has never seen a woman’s bottom before,” she says, laughing.
The hullabaloo was nothing new for Walker, who two decades ago went from art student to art star overnight with a 1994 group show featuring cut-paper tableaux of plantation slaves entwined in devilish congress with their masters, work that seemed to simultaneously attack and celebrate racist caricatures. Three years later, at 28, she became one of the youngest people to win a prestigious John D. and Catherine T. MacArthur Foundation “genius” grant. Since then, she’s had work exhibited at New York’s Metropolitan Museum of Art and Museum of Modern Art, London’s Tate Modern, the Venice Biennale and other venues around the world.
But this time, the magnitude of the response took even Walker by surprise. “I figured people would come because it was free,” she says. “But I don’t think you can anticipate tens of thousands, or all the celebrities.” And when it was up, “I didn’t quite know what to do with myself.”
PEOPLE WHO KNOW Walker well often describe her as shy and reserved. But during our lengthy interview in her airy studio high above New York’s Garment District, I’m more impressed by her intense drive to express herself. After kicking off her shoes, Walker tucks herself into a chair and immediately launches into conversation. “No segues—just on-off,” she comments, laughing. Tall and lithe, with a newly cut, blonde-streaked Afro—one of hundreds of styles she’s had over the years, she jokes—she seems to have a hard time sitting still.
Walker channels a similar sort of energy into her art making. “I’ve always been a bit restless in the work,” she says. “I have to look this way and that way, just to see what my limitations are, or if they are limitations. Maybe they’re assets.”
It was the height of identity politics and the culture wars when, at 24, Walker presented her first major piece, as part of a group exhibition at New York’s Drawing Center in September 1994: a 50-foot-long mural, showing creatures who were clearly masters consorting with others who were clearly slaves, intertwined in shapes that gave new meaning to the phrase “the beast with two backs.” Cut from black paper with precise, cartoonish strokes, and hot-glued to a white wall, the scene featured adults thrusting their heads up each other’s clothes, a woman popping out pickaninnies while dancing a jig and a pigtailed slave girl fellating a white boy in a suit. Walker might have drawn inspiration from the antebellum South, but she was also driving straight into the heart of contemporary racial tensions.
Before the show, Walker was working on a much smaller scale, closer to that of 19th-century silhouettes. She had been included when the curator James Elaine, then with the Drawing Center, discovered her slides in the gallery’s open submissions file. Excited by Walker’s imagery and technique (“She was making things I had never seen before,” Elaine recalls), he immediately shared them with Ann Philbin, then the center’s director, who said, “Call her!” After ascertaining that Walker would dramatically enlarge the work, Elaine put her in a show opening three months later.
The results came as a total contrast to the politically correct conceptual and installation art popular at the time. Anne Pasternak, Creative Time’s president and artistic director, then new in the job, remembers being “completely shocked…. The work wasn’t polite,” she says. “You saw the sexual abuse, complicity, suffering and oppression with black-and-white clarity. I don’t think anybody who saw that show could ever have forgotten it.”
Despite the mural’s outrageousness—or perhaps because of it—Walker, who’d just received her master’s of fine arts from the Rhode Island School of Design, had a career overnight. Three years and seven solo shows later, she won the MacArthur. But her success prompted a nasty backlash, led by older African-American artists who’d forged careers during the civil rights era. Most notably, the assemblage artist Betye Saar mounted a letter-writing campaign in which she called Walker’s work “revolting,” urged curators to prevent her work from being shown and suggested that the younger artist’s use of racist stereotypes was betraying African-Americans “under the guise of art.”
“It must have been hideous,” says Kathy Halbreich, then director of the Walker Art Center in Minneapolis, who included the artist’s work in a show there the same year and subsequently hosted her first retrospective in 2007. “Kara was considered a self-hating black person,” says Halbreich, now associate director of New York’s Museum of Modern Art. “But if we do get angry, if we do get emotional, if we are confused, then she’s successful.”
Philippe Vergne, who organized that retrospective (which later traveled to the Whitney Museum of American Art and the Musée d’Art Moderne de la Ville de Paris, among others), came away hugely impressed. “What I really admire is Kara’s capacity to face her fear and to go forward.”
As for Walker, she survived the furor as she always does, by working. “I always felt that my goal in life was to make meaning in a visual way, through my art. My hope is that somebody will respond in kind—something beyond that naysaying, ‘No.’ ”
BORN IN STOCKTON, California, the youngest child of a secretary and an art professor (her father, Larry Walker, is also a painter), Walker loved cartooning as a child and always knew she would be an artist. “It was just something I liked to do,” she says. “It was a way of focusing.”
She stumbled upon her subject matter in 1983, when her father became chair of Georgia State University’s art department and the family relocated to Atlanta. They settled in Stone Mountain, once a stronghold of the Ku Klux Klan, and Walker has often suggested that her work’s jarring nature reflects her own reaction upon landing in the South less than 20 years after desegregation. “I think moving into that situation was shocking,” says Walker’s high school art teacher, Julie Shaffer, who remains in touch with her onetime student. “Kara probably had not given her blackness much thought till then.”
By the time Walker arrived at RISD, having studied painting and printmaking at the Atlanta College of Art, she was experimenting with a huge range of media. A photograph of her studio there reveals the early cut-paper work, but it also shows paintings on black paper and glass, drawings made with chocolate and the typewriter she used for text-based projects.
“Even when I was in school,” Walker says, “I knew my work grew out of this cumulative kind of process. Then it was all about cutting away the excess and finding some form that works.”
Her range has never really diminished. Over the years, she’s made paintings and drawings with everything from watercolors and oils to graphite and coffee. Her 1997 book, Freedom: A Fable, uses pop-up illustrations to tell the tale of a freed slave—perhaps a stand-in for herself—who “concluded it her duty to become a god.” Much of Walker’s work is performative, too, including magic-lantern projections, text pieces, animations, stage sets and shadow-puppet shows, both live and filmed. Her one previous sculptural work, Burning African Village Play Set with Big House and Lynching (2006), is frankly theatrical: It’s composed of painted steel pieces—burning huts and a black man with an erection carrying a whip—that can be recombined into different narratives.
Besides speaking to race, women’s issues, sexuality and themes like diaspora and migration, Walker’s work can be raunchily funny. Although writers tend to rely on “catchphrases, like Gone With the Wind,” to describe its aesthetic, says the New York dealer Brent Sikkema, who has represented Walker for 20 years, he believes a more apt comparison is the obscene, bitingly irreverent comedy of Richard Pryor. As with Pryor, Walker’s “cynical sense of humor can really kick your butt,” Sikkema says. He also recalls that years ago, Walker once confessed she’d have loved to have been the diva rapper Lil’ Kim. (Walker, for her part, characterizes her work as “pretty broad humored.”)
Walker’s personal life has been conducted mostly out of the limelight. Yet she seems to have entered a freer, more confident phase. After a long separation, she ended her marriage to a former RISD faculty member, the German jeweler Klaus Bürgel, and is now involved with someone new. (“I’m only three-quarters of a loner,” she says, but won’t divulge more.) Her daughter with Bürgel, Octavia, 17, is almost grown: Now a senior at New York’s High School of Art and Design, she intends to be an artist herself. “It’s like nobody can stop her, you know?” says Walker, sounding mock exasperated. Last year Walker, who as a Columbia University faculty member lived in faculty housing for years, moved into her first house in NYC, in Wallabout, a neighborhood near the Brooklyn Navy Yard filled with pre–Civil War frame buildings. “Having a place that was really my own really cradled me in a way that I did not anticipate,” she says.
Walker is now working toward a gallery show, opening November 21 at Sikkema Jenkins & Co. in Chelsea, that will elaborate on A Subtlety’s creation and aftermath. Besides a group of the boy attendants (most of whom were cast in caramel-colored resin), it will include her studies and two videos, one made from footage of the piece being destroyed and another from footage Walker shot during the show’s run. “The real drama was 130,000 people with different responses,” Walker says. “That took on a life of its own.”
Walker will also present the single souvenir she kept from her A Subtlety: the sphinx’s left hand, thumb clenched in the sign of the fig, an ancient gesture that appears in many different cultures. Just as the sphinx is “a symbol of both wonder and despair,” the fig “is both phallic and vaginal,” Walker says. “It can be a fertility symbol, or a f— you, depending on which way you want to look at it.” It’s likely that she intends the message to encompass both those possibilities, and many more.
online.wsj.comArchitect Sou Fujimoto’s Futuristic Spaces
Fujimoto’s designs eschew the predictable and often force viewers to relate to space in a new way, making the Tokyo-based architect a hero in his field
By Fred A. Bernstein
06 November 2014 08:48 WIB
“JAPANESE PEOPLE DON’T CARE about resale value,” says the architect Sou Fujimoto, explaining why clients have allowed him to create houses that lack conventional versions of walls, ceilings or floors, and which require the skill of an acrobat to comfortably inhabit.
Fujimoto, 43, is standing in front of House NA, a jungle gym of white steel bars amid beige apartment buildings on a quiet street in Tokyo. Built on a tiny site of just about 600 square feet, it nonetheless incorporates 21 levels connected by angled ladders, with wooden boxes doubling as step stools. Gauzy white curtains provide privacy, but not a lot; the house is as much terrarium as shelter. The owners, a husband and wife drawn to unusual designs, “bought a small lot but got a lot of living space,” says Fujimoto. Those stairway substitutes would be illegal in most countries, but in Japan, there is little building-code enforcement within private homes, which gives Fujimoto the freedom to follow through on his sometimes confounding ideas.
Fujimoto’s goal isn’t just to make spaces—the basic function of architecture—but to make people relate to spaces in new ways. Watching the couple move around the house, approaching everyday activities with the finesse the unusual design requires, suggests he is well on his way to achieving it.
He concedes that his clients have accepted “some really extreme solutions” to their housing needs. But rather than make their lives difficult, he says, he hopes to bring people “some comfort that is yet unknown.” That comfort may derive in part from landscape elements that Fujimoto blends into his buildings. During a tour of his studio in Tokyo’s Shinjuku neighborhood, the architect points to dozens of model houses with tiny trees breaking through walls, floors and ceilings. In Fujimoto’s hands, nature sometimes overpowers the built environment, a vision that could be apocalyptic were it not for his highly refined aesthetic. “I call it primitive future,” he says of the natural-artificial mash-up he is pioneering.
This fall, one Fujimoto building will help draw attention to Miami’s Design District during Art Basel, while another, in one of Tokyo’s main shopping districts, will compete with dazzling structures by the likes of Toyo Ito and Herzog & de Meuron. In California, Ronald C. Nelson, the executive director of the Long Beach Museum of Art, has been working with Fujimoto on ways to give the museum, in what was once a Craftsman-style house, new visibility. “We want a signature piece that says, ‘Oh, my God, I’ve got to go over there,’ ” says Nelson, explaining his choice of Fujimoto.
In architecture schools around the world, Fujimoto’s disregard for the expected has made him something of a hero. And he has become a constant presence on the lecture circuit, speaking in somewhat broken English but showing images that are more confident than his quiet demeanor suggests.
About half of Fujimoto’s active projects are abroad, as far away as Chile, Greece, Spain and China. But the best known of his buildings are the Japanese houses, designed to challenge clients rather than coddle them. With their odd proportions and lack of orthodox enclosure, they don’t so much restrict movement, in Fujimoto’s view, as create opportunities to explore “more possibilities” for daily life. Some of his admirers see the houses as explorations into how people will live in the not-too-distant future, when space and privacy are scarce.
For every critic who views the houses as important architectural experiments, there are many more who simply love Fujimoto’s aesthetic. The lightness of his structures can be particularly compelling. The German critic Niklas Maak described Fujimoto’s House NA as “a built optical illusion,” adding, “You would be forgiven for thinking gravity has ceased to exert its pull.”
In Los Angeles, lawyer Dana Taschner was looking for an architect to design a retreat on a tricky (if spectacular) lot on Mulholland Drive, overlooking the Hollywood sign. And who better for a tricky lot than Fujimoto? Says Taschner, “More than just knowing how to approach difficulty, which he does all the time, Sou thinks out of the box to create mind-bending concepts.” The house the architect came up with—a kind of tunnel cutting through the ridge, with views in two directions, one through a glass swimming pool that serves as a watery lens—is brilliant, says Taschner, who hopes to show it to a design review board in November.
In Miami, the developer Craig Robins tapped Fujimoto to help relaunch his Design District as an upscale fashion destination. Fujimoto’s contribution, on one of the district’s most prominent sites, is a building for several high-end jewelers, with a facade of blue glass that Robins says resembles falling water. “I’m totally thrilled,” says Robins, who chose Fujimoto for the high-profile project because he is “likely to grow in importance over time”—a prediction he is qualified to make, considering that he gave Zaha Hadid a Design District commission in 2005. Like Fujimoto’s designs, the Iraqi-British architect’s ideas were once considered too difficult to turn into actual buildings. Now she has more than 40 projects in the works.
By contrast, Fujimoto has about a dozen active projects. In Tokyo, he is completing a mixed-use building in Omotesando, the world-class shopping district that is also a proving ground for architects, including several Pritzker Prize winners. The most famous Omotesando building may be Herzog & de Meuron’s Prada store, with its vertical moss garden and bubble windows. Not far away is Tod’s, by Toyo Ito, with a flat concrete facade that suggests the branches of a tree. The Christian Dior boutique, by the Tokyo firm SANAA, is an ethereal, translucent jewel box.
Even in such company, Fujimoto’s entry is likely to make a splash. The four-story building steps back from the street at several points, and each time it does part of the structure sprouts small trees, as if the building itself were lifting a forest into the sky—a kind of Escher print in which beams become trees become beams, in three dimensions.
The building is the latest step in Fujimoto’s goal to harmonize nature and architecture. He is intent on bringing nature itself, not images of nature, into the built environment. He achieves that by either making his buildings so minimal that existing natural elements still dominate or by making the buildings veritable planters, as in his Omotesando design.
On the campus of Musashino Art University, he surrounded his 65,000-square-foot library with columns of dark-stained timber behind glass. They are deliberately reflective, making it hard to tell where the trees end and the building begins. Inside, instead of walls, the building is composed of bookshelves reaching up to the ceiling, an endless grid that becomes its own kind of forest, with the verticals as tree trunks and the horizontals as branches.
With these gestures, he is attempting, he says, to merge the forest of his childhood, in rural Hokkaido, with the forest of his adulthood: the man-made thickets of 21st-century cities. “The complexity and richness of the forest, where I grew up, is a very big starting point for me,” he says. “Now I’m based in Tokyo, and Tokyo itself is like a forest—an organic order in an artificial situation.”
“Both spaces are formed by accumulations of big and small elements,” he says. “Realizing this, I came to believe that we must be able to move back and forth more freely between architecture and nature. And thus I started the quest to create a new living environment, which would be neither architecture nor nature but the integration of both.”
FUJIMOTO DIDN’T ALWAYS plan to be an architect, though he remembers being fascinated by the work of Antoni Gaudí as a child. During high school, he regarded Albert Einstein as the greatest mind of the 20th century. He enrolled at the University of Tokyo, planning to study physics, before deciding, he says, “that my brain was not powerful enough.” Believing that the great modernist architects—including Mies van der Rohe and Le Corbusier —were as innovative as any scientist, he decided to follow in their footsteps.
Still, after graduating with a degree in architecture, Fujimoto avoided the usual path of working for an established firm. He was afraid, he says, that his ideas would become watered down. “For five or six years, I was nothing,” he says flatly. His big break came when his father, a psychiatrist and hospital director, helped him win an important commission: a children’s psychiatric rehabilitation center, which he designed as a cluster of white cubes. It attracted media attention, giving his nascent career a boost.
It is a career that has yet to pay off, monetarily. Fujimoto and his wife, Yumiko, live modestly (she works as his office manager). He rented a tuxedo for their backyard wedding in 2009, he says, and hasn’t worn one since. Most days, he arrives at his office in jeans and a T-shirt, in stark contrast to older Japanese architects, who can be stiffly formal. Fujimoto’s only indulgence is a pair of metal-framed glasses from the Japanese brand 999.9, the same kind worn by Ito, whom he describes as “the first architect who actually found some talent in me” and as “a father figure.”
The office itself, a former workers’ dormitory on the top floor of a printing plant, is almost shabby. (The work space is on six, but the building’s elevator stops at five. Fujimoto isn’t complaining—after all, his own buildings ask far more of their users than to walk up a flight of stairs.) His two dozen or so full-time employees are joined by almost the same number of “open-desk interns”—architecture students or recent graduates from all over the world, drawn to Tokyo by Fujimoto’s reputation. They work 14 or more hours a day, often building one Styrofoam model after another, like sorcerer’s apprentices trying to keep up with a flood of ideas. The practice of using interns, who generally aren’t paid, is controversial in the architecture world, but Fujimoto says that it benefits both architects and students. Certainly, it helps him stay afloat.
online.wsj.comIf his employees work in close quarters, that doesn’t bother Fujimoto, whose work is often about doing more with less—about, as he puts it, fitting architecture to the human body. Toshiko Mori, a New York architect and the former chair of the architecture program at the Harvard Graduate School of Design, says Fujimoto has a gift for devising structures that “create small moments of connection.”
That was nowhere more evident than in the pavilion he designed for London’s Serpentine Galleries in 2013. Each year, the gallery commissions an architect to create an event space in Hyde Park. (Fujimoto is the youngest architect to receive the prestigious commission, which has been awarded to Frank Gehry, Rem Koolhaas and Hadid.) His novel design wove thousands of steel bars into a kind of high-tech hedge. Transparent disks, set on the bars at various levels, became steps, tables and chairs. It allowed visitors to shape their own experiences, at different levels, the way children might choose different perches on a tree. At the same time, the pixelated structure blurred the boundary between indoors and out.
When Fujimoto has an idea, he may use it more than once. In fact, he is hoping to build a 1,000-foot tower in Taichung, Taiwan, that bears a strong resemblance to his Serpentine Pavilion. The Taichung government hopes the scaled-up version will become a symbol of that city—a kind of cloudlike Eiffel Tower.
During an interview last year, the Japanese architecture writer Yoshio Futagawa kidded him about the practice. “I sometimes find you taking models from other projects and simply scaling them up for reuse,” Futagawa said. Unfazed, Fujimoto responded that he wasn’t plagiarizing. Rather, he said, “It’s like growing crops—watching the seeds transform through generations. I sift through them, picking up the ones that look interesting and throwing away those that are no good.”
The seeds go back to one of his first projects in Tokyo, a six-unit apartment building that appears to be a pile of houses, stacked irregularly in a nod to the chaotic urban environment. The contrast between the traditional elements—the building components look like Monopoly houses—and their untraditional use made photographers swoon. The project also established his reputation for using conventional elements in unconventional ways.
Another early effort was the Final Wooden House, consisting of thick blocks of cedar stacked and staggered to create what might be called a rectilinear cave. It was as dark as House NA is light, as earthbound as the latter is airy.
Somewhere between those two extremes, but no less pioneering, is House N, consisting of a box within a box within a box—three enclosures, each with large windows, cleverly offset to allow privacy. Fujimoto says the boxes compel playful engagement with the architecture. For example, he says, there is a typical bedroom, but there are also many other places to sleep, depending on your mood and on the weather.
Japanese dwellings have historically been flexible, with little furniture other than tatami mats, and shoji screen partitions to allow rooms to take on multiple configurations. When the West was building marble and gold-leaf edifices like Versailles, the Japanese were building paper palaces. By designing houses with sliding walls and interlocking spaces, Fujimoto isn’t defying Japanese tradition but reinventing it.
Even with the international acclaim his Serpentine Pavilion brought him, the self-effacing architect is still a novice at winning clients’ confidence. Last year, the owner of an estate in Connecticut asked him to come up with ideas for a pool house. Fujimoto sent two sketches, both of which the client nixed. Next time, he says, he would insist on a face-to-face meeting, where he could explain—and offer to modify—his proposals. Providing ideas free of charge, as he did for the Connecticut client, is hardly a sustainable business model. And he got paid “almost nothing” for designing the Serpentine Pavilion, though the gallery sold Fujimoto’s pavilion to the billionaire pharmaceutical heir Maja Hoffmann for an undisclosed sum.
Whether they’re lucrative or not, Fujimoto is attacking commissions with almost ferocious creativity. In his office, scale models of planned buildings are everywhere. While some of the concepts will never be realized, Fujimoto says, “the thoughts are there in your mind to enrich ideas in the future.” Besides, he adds, with everything that could go wrong, any completed project “must be the result of miracles.”
There’s no way to know yet how many miracles will occur, but if Fujimoto wanted to, he could charge admission to his impromptu “model museum.” There, on the sixth floor of a nondescript building, visitors would get a glimpse of architecture’s bold, primitive future.
online.wsj.comReshma Saujani’s Ambitious Plan for Technology
Saujani founded Girls Who Code with the goal of closing the gender gap in tech. After partnering with industry giants Facebook and Google, she has a new goal: to teach a million young women to code by 2020
By Christopher Ross
06 November 2014 08:37 WIB
RESHMA SAUJANI’S motivation to found Girls Who Code, the nation’s pre-eminent nonprofit dedicated to closing the tech gender gap, traces back to her last day of eighth grade. As the daughter of Indian parents who had fled Idi Amin’s dictatorship in Uganda for suburban Illinois in the 1970s, she was constantly reminded she was different by the color of her skin and her parents’ thick accents. When she went grocery shopping with her family at the local Dominick’s, she’d check the racks of key chains personalized with names—Jennifer, Tom, Charlotte, Michael—her hopes of finding Reshma perpetually dashed. Then, the day before summer vacation started, a classmate called her a hajji, a slur against people of Middle Eastern and Indian descent, and she decided to fight back. But when they met after school, she found herself facing off with two girls—one swinging a tennis racket, the other spraying whipped cream—and after being battered and knocked down, Saujani trudged a mile home to her mother, who found her daughter bloody and bedraggled.
But if her tormentors intended to cow her, they had the opposite effect. “It was an identity-awakening moment for me,” says Saujani, now 38. When she started high school that fall, she formed a diversity club to educate her fellow students about other cultures. It was the first step on a path that led to an Ivy League education, into the fields of law and politics and, ultimately, to starting Girls Who Code in 2012. The organization provides intensive education in computer science to high school sophomores and juniors via summer programs in nine cities across the country. Girls learn the nuts and bolts of coding, website and app development, and robotics. They also have the chance to meet with industry leaders like Amazon’s Jeff Bezos and Facebook’s Sheryl Sandberg. In just two years, Girls Who Code has been explosively successful, winning sponsorship from tech companies including Twitter, Google and GE and expanding from one program in its first year to an estimated 40 in 2015.
The goals of Girls Who Code are not just about leveling the playing field—they are aimed at addressing an urgent concern of the U.S. tech industry. There will be 1.4 million computing jobs in the United States by 2020, and if current patterns continue, college graduates will be able to fill just a third of those positions. And while American women graduate with 57 percent of all bachelor degrees, they make up only 14 percent of computer science graduates. Despite the visibility of Silicon Valley luminaries like Yahoo’s Marissa Mayer and Pixar’s Danielle Feinberg, women hold only about a quarter of STEM (Science, Technology, Engineering and Math) jobs.
Saujani and others who study the field’s gender disparity have found that the root of the problem often lies in the social pressures of being a teenager. Talk to students in the Girls Who Code program and you’ll hear the same stories again and again: walking into a coding class or robotics club only to discover you’re the sole girl, or being told that computer science is for boys, that it’s too hard.
Saujani tries to counter this trend not only by fostering an inclusive sisterhood, but by imbuing the girls with some of the fighting spirit she showed after her schoolyard scuffle. Her language is often shaded with almost revolutionary overtones: It’s not an organization but a “movement” composed of “foot soldiers” and “true believers.” “This is what I try to teach the girls,” says Saujani. “There were people who said no to me, who said, ‘It’s not going to work.’ But you have nothing to lose.” Her stated aim is to reach one million girls in the next six years.
IN MID-AUGUST in New York City, 20 of Saujani’s foot soldiers are working frantically to finish their final projects as graduation looms at the end of the week. In an airy, converted basketball court inside the headquarters of the ad tech giant AppNexus, they gather in knots around computers at long tables, their excited chatter broken by an occasional burst of laughter. For the past few days, mostly collaborating in groups, they’ve been drawing on the coding skills they’ve acquired this summer—classes run five days a week, from 9 a.m. to 4 p.m.—to build an original, functional app or website they’ll present to their peers, parents, and counselors and executives from host companies at the graduation ceremony. The program’s 375 students nationwide are doing the same thing at three other Girls Who Code locations in New York (at Goldman Sachs, AT&T and Barry Diller’s InterActiveCorp), at eight locations in California (including Facebook and Twitter campuses and Intel’s center at Stanford)and at spots in Boston, Miami and Seattle (where Microsoft, Google and Amazon host programs).
Alex Kukoff, 16, is putting the finishing touches on an app called Breadwinner that lets you rate and look up the quality of free bread at restaurants like Olive Garden and The Cheesecake Factory. She squints at the screen as her fingers dash across the keyboard. “I haven’t embedded search links yet,” she murmurs. At the other end of the room, Franchesca Arecy, 17, Rose Archer, 15, and Clare Lohrmann, 17, are huddled around a laptop, working on an app that uses an algorithm based on the one employed by OkCupid to match voters with local candidates who champion the issues most important to them. They call it OkPoli. “The idea is to make the political process more user-friendly,” says Lohrmann, grinning shyly. On another nearby screen, images of dresses and pants scroll by—a demo for an app, inspired by the movie Clueless, that allows users to inventory their wardrobe on their phone.
The students hardly call to mind the stereotype of the coder as an antisocial quant tucked away in a dark basement. After six weeks together, the girls—who hail from all over the country, from Thousand Oaks, California, to Newark, New Jersey—feed off one another’s energy and enthusiasm. They pitch their projects with the bright-eyed earnestness of prospecting Silicon Valley entrepreneurs. This pluck is one of the main attributes that Girls Who Code seeks: It wants influencers, young women who will recruit freshmen and start local coding clubs. Saujani knows that in order to effect real change, they’ll need to create a cultural groundswell, one that relies on each female coder to convert others to the crusade.
“It’s a supply issue. And Girls Who Code is really increasing the pool,” says Jack Dorsey, co-founder of Twitter and CEO of mobile-payment company Square, who personally cut a check to Girls Who Code in its first year. “We look for passion and competence for problem solving. The girls in this program definitely have that passion. And within the first two weeks, they’re writing programs to control robots.”
Others in the industry have begun to take notice and r*tchet up their response. In June, after revealing that only 17 percent of its tech employees were women, Google launched Made With Code, a $50 million initiative partnered with Girls Who Code to teach young women the fundamentals of coding. The web-search giant created a site that connects interested young women with mentors and professionals in fields that involve coding, a national database of coding clubs across the country and more than a dozen coding projects that beginners can try their hand at.
“We need to act early in girls’ education if we’re going to address the stereotypes about women and minorities in math and science,” emails Sheryl Sandberg, the COO of Facebook and an early supporter of Girls Who Code. “Programs that focus explicitly on getting girls to code are crucial, and Reshma’s work through Girls Who Code is doing this by giving more girls role models in the field and the confidence and hands-on experience to excel in STEM. In order to move numbers, we have to increase the numbers going into the funnel.”
Saujani herself shied away from number crunching as a kid, although she’s since begun teaching herself to code alongside the girls. She was the first in her family to become a lawyer—both her parents were trained as engineers, and her sister is a doctor. But she believes the experience of this avoidance has helped her to understand the mind-set of girls who might have a talent for or interest in computer science but end up getting pushed away. “I was that girl who was terrified of math and science growing up,” she says. “It made me feel inadequate in every single job.”
After graduating from the University of Illinois at Urbana-Champaign with a double major in political science and speech communications, Saujani burnished her academic record with advanced degrees from Harvard’s John F. Kennedy School of Government and Yale Law. While working as a counsel for Wall Street firms in the mid-2000s, she began raising money for Democratic candidates, and in 2010, she challenged New York’s Carolyn Maloney for a House seat in the Democratic primary. Her campaign was handsomely funded and tech-savvy, employing Square and the online organizational service NationBuilder and counting Dorsey and Facebook co-founder Chris Hughes as endorsers. She ended up losing the race, but once again, the setback contained the seeds of her next leap forward. While campaigning, she had spent plenty of time in schools and was struck by the lack of computer science education, especially for teenage girls. “When I lost, I felt like I let a lot of people down,” says Saujani, who married mobile entrepreneur Nihal Mehta in 2012. “I said, ‘Now I have an opportunity to be an advocate for an issue which has no advocacy.’ And that’s how Girls Who Code came to me.”
Applying the influential social network and organizational acumen she had acquired as a political candidate, Saujani threw herself into getting the nonprofit off the ground. She wrote a business plan, created a team to start forming a curriculum, met with educators and principals and began buttering up potential funders. For the first year, “it was really bootstrapped,” she says. “I had no money.” She financed the effort on her personal credit cards and called in favors to use conference rooms at a friend’s company. When a big piece of press she’d lined up fell through, she was crestfallen—in spite of all her work, it looked as though the project would barely alert the public to the issue. All they had was a promise from Twitter to publish a blog post on it on June 26, 2012. But as soon as the post went up, the news of Girls Who Code went viral. “At six o’clock, Sheryl Sandberg emailed me—I don’t even know how she got my email address—being like, ‘This is awesome; how can I help you?’ ” she recalls. “I was going to bed that night, and my husband said, ‘How can you sleep? We’re trending in Korea!’ ” Between graduates of the program and the grass-roots code clubs they’ve created, Saujani estimates Girls Who Code has already helped introduce nearly 4,000 girls to coding. Ninety-five percent of the Girls Who Code participants plan to major or minor in computer science. “Year by year, we’re actually moving the numbers really quickly,” says Saujani.
OVER 100 PEOPLE are expected at the August 21 graduation ceremony for the 20 girls stationed at the Girls Who Code location in AT&T’s Tribeca office. An hour before the crowd is set to arrive, the girls are nervous and excited as they set up their project boards and practice their speeches. One girl squeals as she accidentally knocks her board over. “I can’t find my JavaScript!” another shouts as she races down a hall. Yet for the most part, the graduates, smartly attired in dresses and heels, seem poised on the brink of adulthood. One girl approaches Saujani and asks if they can take a selfie together later. In the words of Dorsey: “The thing that Girls Who Code teaches most is confidence.”
At times, the Girls Who Code program mentors and directors appear to be at the mercy of the young go-getters they’ve created, many of whom already have LinkedIn accounts. As Marissa Shorenstein, president of AT&T’s New York office, recounts in her speech, after she shared her email address with the girls, she found herself inundated with requests for references and résumé reviews. Saujani laughs. “We taught them that,” she says. “That’s how the boys are. We teach them how to hustle.”
At the end of the ceremony, the girls take the stage in groups to pitch their six different projects. Their presentations are well rehearsed: The young coders trade off portions of the speech and fluently use words like “monetize” and “incentivize.” One project provides a dashboard to collate all your social media feeds while another helps users navigate disparities in clothing sizes at different retail chains.
Afterward, Tenzin Ukyab, 15, a student at the Bronx High School of Science, pulls her father over to look at her group’s project, Alphabuddy. Ukyab’s family is Tibetan, and she wanted to create an iPad app that would teach her twin baby sisters the Tibetan alphabet; the final product also instructs users in the Hebrew and English alphabets. With his hands in his pockets, her father listens patiently as his daughter reels off a rapid-fire explanation of how they coded the program. His face crinkles into a smile as her finger traces a guided pattern for the Tibetan letter kha onto the iPad interface, triggering the device to play a sound clip of Ukyab pronouncing the letter. “Learning code is even more powerful than learning a foreign language,” Ukyab says, looking up from the screen. “With code, you can change the world.”
online.wsj.comNoma’s René Redzepi Never Stops Experimenting
After the loss of his restaurant’s best-in-the-world title in 2013, Danish chef René Redzepi is back on top with 90 new avant-garde recipes and a pop-up eatery in Japan
By Howie Kahn
06 November 2014 08:32 WIB
“I’VE BEEN THINKING of writing a book on how to deal with a bad year,” says René Redzepi, calibrating the espresso machine in his sun-filled home kitchen in Copenhagen. It’s a late-summer morning, and the 36-year-old chef, wearing spandex tights and a T-shirt, has just returned from his near-daily outdoor fitness regimen of running, crunches and burpees. As the coffee brews, Redzepi’s daughters Arwen, 6, and Genta, 3, weave between their father’s knees, and his wife, Nadine, sets their infant girl, Ró, to rest on his shoulder.
According to Redzepi, 2013 was “an avalanche of disaster.” It started in February, when 63 diners at his legendary restaurant, Noma, contracted norovirus from a batch of tainted mussels. News about the incident—Redzepi’s first public misstep—quickly spun out of control. “We’d been the No. 1 restaurant in the world since 2010,” he says, referring to the closely watched San Pellegrino rankings. “It felt like standing outside on a perfect, clear day and suddenly being beaten to the ground by hoodlums.”
At the same time, the restaurant was changing its investment structure as Redzepi was concluding a seven-year hunt for a new partner. He and Noma’s original majority owner, the Danish restaurateur and food personality Claus Meyer , had been at odds over the restaurant’s identity since 2007, but the collapse of the world’s financial markets slowed the chance of any deal coming to fruition. Eventually, Redzepi felt a connection with Marc Blazer, the Dutch-American CEO of Overture Investment Partners, and completed what he refers to as his divorce from Meyer. Soon after the papers were inked, Redzepi became the restaurant’s largest individual shareholder—just before Noma lost its distinction, that April, as the best in the world.
For Redzepi and his staff of 81, it all amounted to a wake-up call—a clear sign that regaining their No. 1 position from Spain’s El Celler de Can Roca wasn’t going to be enough. “People were acting like it was the end of Noma,” says Redzepi. “But you know what? I wouldn’t want to be without this motivation. I told my whole team I wouldn’t want to be without this tremendous and inspiring push. Sometimes you need a bit of anger towards the world.”
Sliding one spot isn’t exactly a fall from grace, but it’s hardly a welcome concept for a chef who’s spent the past decade outpacing his industry. Since 2003, the year he opened Noma, Redzepi’s “New Nordic” cooking has defined menus from New York to Paris. Redzepi forages; the world forages. Redzepi ages his proteins in hay; the world follows suit. In fact, part of his annus horribilis included the realization that being mimicked dilutes the potency of his product. “Everyone was doing what I was doing,” he says. “So I had to change.”
Since January, Redzepi has fallen back on what he knows best: hard work. He has developed more than 90 new recipes for Noma. He’s talking about opening a second Copenhagen restaurant—“Everyday food, done extremely well,” he says. Next year, Redzepi will mentor his longtime pastry chef, Rosio Sánchez, as she opens a Mexican restaurant called Hija de Sánchez in a space across town. Despite having only an advisory stake in the project, Redzepi has made several excursions to Mexico this year to study the country’s flavors (a mole-inspired dish has even appeared on Noma’s menu). But his biggest and most anticipated upcoming endeavor is Noma’s pop-up in Japan. Beginning in January and lasting five weeks, Redzepi and 60 of his staff members, including his Gambian head dishwasher, Ali Sonko, will relocate to Tokyo to serve a brand-new 14-course menu in a dining room they’ve rented in the Mandarin Oriental hotel.
“We need better planning. We’re behind,” Redzepi says with intensity. “The only thing we know is 50,000 people are on the waiting list.”
HOURS LATER, Redzepi bounds into Noma’s upstairs test kitchen, shedding his street clothes in favor of a short-sleeved, Nehru-collar chef’s coat and the long, brown apron that constitute his staff’s uniform. Until he arrives, everyone from his senior staff to his stagiaires looks like part of the team, but once Redzepi enters the room, all the cooks suddenly look as if they’re dressed as him. He’s spent most of the day with his family marking the occasion of Arwen’s first-ever day of school. “They ask parents to stay for the entire day,” he says. “And on top of it being her first day, my daughter also lost her first tooth!” When someone asks Redzepi about what the tooth fairy might leave beneath Arwen’s pillow tonight, he says, “I don’t know about those things. We didn’t have that growing up.”
online.wsj.comWhen Redzepi talks about his childhood, the first topic he covers is labor. René’s father, Ali-Rami Redzepi, moved to Denmark from rural Macedonia in 1972. “He worked all the typical immigrant jobs,” says Redzepi. “Taxi driver, chauffeur, bus driver, greengrocer—he delivered fish for many years.” Redzepi’s Danish-born mother, Hannah, cleaned houses, offices and hospitals. She met her husband while working as a cashier in a Copenhagen cafeteria. “My father was the dishwasher,” says Redzepi, who started contributing to his household’s earnings at the age of 11 with two jobs—one delivering beer, cigarettes and schnapps for a neighborhood kiosk and the other as a paperboy. “It turned into five paper routes,” says Redzepi. “This was about helping my mother and father pay the rent, and also about sending money back to our family in Macedonia. But it was also good training for the restaurant business and for Noma, in particular, where, for the first five years, I went into full-blown working mode. I just had no clue what else was going on in the world other than in our kitchen. It was the kind of thing where you finally pick up a newspaper, and there’s a guy called Cristiano Ronaldo, and you’ve never heard of him.”
All the brown aprons gather around a giant cucumber. Light pours through the large, open windows; a breeze carries the faint smell of marine life from the Øresund. “You can make a cucumber steak with this,” Redzepi announces to a group that includes sous-chef Thomas Frebel (Magdeburg, Germany); Rosio Sánchez (Chicago); head of research and development Lars Williams (New York); and a small sampling of the dozens of international interns (Finland, Albania, India, Australia) who spend long, silent days here sawing through marrowbones, peeling walnuts, sorting edible flowers and tenderizing squid.
Redzepi begins firing off possible treatments for the cucumber. He did the same thing yesterday with sunflower seeds and will do the same thing tomorrow with the season’s first apples. “Why don’t we salt it whole and lacto-ferment it?” he says, before launching into a gourd-themed speech that’s part dialectic, part brainstorm and part lecture. He phrases his ideas in the form of questions, but only rhetorically. “What about scooping it out and doing something savory with ice, lemon, cucumber juice, clam, mussel and oyster juice?” Redzepi slices the fruit and hands out morsels to taste. “What if we do something with just the seeds?”
Eleven years in, and the food at Noma is unmatched. After eating a dish of lobster and nasturtium, Sean Brock, of the restaurant Husk in Charleston, South Carolina, recalls thinking, “A dish like this should be the goal of every chef, a dish that appears innocent and kicks your ***.” The Icelandic-Danish installation artist Ólafur Elíasson attributes the success of the restaurant to Redzepi’s unique ability to “turn what begins as a feeling into an action.”
My own recent meal at Noma had little in the way of gustatory or visual familiarity. Three years ago, when I visited last, Redzepi’s food found inspiration in reference to the natural world—the forest floor in winter, Denmark’s shoreline. Now his plates are cooler, more abstract and minimal. One dish paired succulent, ripe mulberries with turbot roe. Tiny coriander flowers rested at the tips of the roe slices, which were shaped like duck tongues. A few drops of a ferment made from grasshoppers added extra umami flavor. I ate with Ryan Poli, 37, a Chicago-based chef who had recently walked away from a high-paying gig with a large American hospitality group. He had turned to his old friend Redzepi—they met while working at California’s French Laundry in 2001—for a mid-career reboot as an intern. Poli just shook his head at the beauty and the depth of the dish. “The mulberries are extraordinary on their own,” Redzepi said later, “so it makes creating a dish like that a lot easier. It’s really simple.”
“That’s part of his cooking genius,” says Daniel Patterson, of San Francisco’s Coi, “the ability to conjure brilliance from humble and often overlooked ingredients.” Taking it a step further, Redzepi has made a policy of “Trash Cooking,” in which almost nothing that comes into the Noma kitchen gets thrown away, and every part of a food is processed into something useful: skins, seeds, membranes, guts. This year, realizing that not quite everything can be made palatable, Redzepi purchased a hulking, humming, many-thousand-euro compost machine, in the hopes of still running a restaurant with zero food waste and also, potentially, distributing haute trash. “I’m thinking of sending guests home with a bag of that soil,” he says, “so our food can help them grow their own food.”
Beyond his strategic thinking about garbage, Redzepi has also devoted considerable energy to preservation techniques. He’s perpetually ramping up production in his “dried kitchen” and “fermented kitchen,” tasking his staff, including Dr. Arielle Johnson, a newly hired full-time food scientist, with dehydrating and breaking down everything from berries to bugs. Over the summer, under a directive to ferment more—to discover, in Redzepi’s estimate, thousands of entirely new flavors—Noma erected its “science bunker,” comprising four shipping containers stacked on two levels behind the restaurant.
“This is funk,” boasts Redzepi, opening the door to a chamber where peas and nuts are aging on a shelf. He makes a quick joke about the phrase “fermented nuts” before delivering a succinct history of fermentation, from Roman times to the present. He then jogs up to the second level, where there’s both a laboratory and a garden. “These chiles,” he says, pointing at the rooftop dirt, “are a special variety from Greenland. They found them frozen in ice after 10,000 years.” Redzepi rolls his eyes. “Just kidding,” he says. “They’re Rosio’s. Come see the centrifuge.”
Redzepi refuses to take sole credit for any of these initiatives. “None of this would have turned into what it is today if not for this cocktail of people,” he says of his crew. “We’re a bunch of crazy, hungry kids from bad backgrounds who are just willing to go all in.” Included in this group is his wife, Nadine, Noma’s former reservations manager, whom he saw on the sly for six months while trying to enforce a no-dating-among-staff policy at the restaurant. He now calls the rule his “best mistake.” “I actually wrote this out and sent it around: ‘If people fall in love with each other here, then one of them has to leave,’ ” he says. “Obviously, I changed this. Many people have fallen in love here.”
Redzepi laughs, tightens his apron and pivots to head downstairs for the nightly predinner meeting, where vital information about guests is discussed in the round. Tonight, table 6 is here to celebrate beating cancer. “Remember why they come here,” Redzepi instructs his team. Later, he tells me, “One of the things I fear most is having none of these people around to enjoy the successes with. I feel immensely grateful for all of them. Without them it would be so lonely and almost worthless.”
NOMA RECLAIMED its No. 1 spot in April. Ranking aside, it’s never been better. Even walking through the door stands out as a singular moment. A dozen or more chefs come off their stations, briefly leaving their time-sensitive constructions, to say hello and welcome. As a gesture, Redzepi says, it stems from his last visit to Macedonia, where, as a boy, he’d spend as much as half the year with his parents and twin brother, Kenneth (now head of maintenance at Noma)—with cousins and grandparents and aunts and uncles—eating and sleeping in a small stone house, until local conflict flamed into war. “I have this image from when we left,” says Redzepi, who hasn’t been back to the country since. “My father woke us up and took us to the car. It was the middle of the night, and we started driving. I remember looking back over my shoulder and I could see the rest of our family, all lit up by the taillights, just waving.”
In revisiting that memory here on a daily basis, Redzepi has fostered a familial culture in which he’s able to both love and ride his staff in equal measure. “René is never happy with where he is at,” says Matt Orlando, Noma’s former head chef and now the chef-owner of Copenhagen’s Amass. “There is always something that can be done better. Everything is constantly re-evaluated and dissected.”
Roy Choi, of the newly opened Commissary in Los Angeles, suggests that Redzepi is “haunted.” Says Choi, “Something about him is uneasy and at unrest. And that’s what creates things we’ve never seen before.”
A prime example is the MAD symposium (mad means food in Danish), Redzepi’s annual industry gathering in Copenhagen. There, under a circus tent, cooks, scholars, entomophagists, neurobiologists, urban farmers and a host of other thinkers and disrupters plot out the future of food. “René is focused on the future in the biggest way possible,” emails activist-chef Alice Waters. “He can gently (and not so gently) nudge ambitious young cooks in the right direction and ask them to think about the bigger picture.” Choi, who, in partnership with Michelin-starred chef Daniel Patterson, announced an initiative to challenge the fast-food industry at this year’s meeting, credits Redzepi for “putting the whole chef community on his back with MAD.”
Redzepi’s own conclave has opened doors for him at other prominent gatherings. This September, he joined the ranks of burgeoning corporate executives and young royals at the World Economic Forum of Young Global Leaders conference in China. (Out of this year’s 214 invitees, Redzepi was the only chef.) “Because of that,” Redzepi says, “I’ll get to go to Davos to represent MAD, which is also a nonprofit organization, to meet with world leaders. I want to find ways for MAD to actually last.”
BACK IN NOMA’S KITCHEN, apparently absorbed by a frond of fennel, Redzepi hears the word Japan and jumps into his cooks’ conversation. They’re discussing an upcoming prep trip, and he’s concerned about focus. “We’re not going to go there and copy our food or copy Japanese food,” he says. “We want to try something. We want a challenge. We want to learn something from it. You could say we’re in the process of gunning for three Michelin stars in Tokyo even if we’ll only be open there for a month.”
Several weeks later, with Redzepi heading home from the China YGL conference, I Skype with Lars Williams, who has just stepped back into the Noma kitchen after a week of reconnaissance in Japan. Redzepi has made four trips to Tokyo so far this year, but it’s this recent one carried out by his deputies, Williams and Thomas Frebel, that will please him the most, since Williams is now able to articulate some definite plans.
“There’s 12 artisan plate makers using clay and wood to create all-new table settings for the restaurant,” says Williams. New flatware and chopsticks are being made by additional Japanese craftspeople. Novel ingredients have been discovered after many hours of foraging in the Nagano area: Japanese ants have been procured, mountain grapes are in abundance, wild kiwis are likely on the docket. Five kinds of wood are being processed into oils and broths. Larvae from lethal hornets will be turned into a sauce. Ten cooking oils, 10 salts and 15 sugars have all been tested for possible use. Venison tongue has been sourced, as has horse meat, but the menu is being kept primarily vegetarian to stay in line with the idea of “being in Japan, but still being Noma,” says Williams.
They might use farm-raised turtle, though, and they have learned how to butcher one accordingly. Williams reports that 40 different lacto-ferments and garums, ranging from 15 varieties of grapes to plum to eggplant, are now under way. The 112 people who eat at Tokyo Noma every day (two seatings, 56 guests at each) will be eating dishes that literally contain several months’ worth of flavor, just as at Copenhagen Noma. Williams is hopeful all this will please Redzepi. “There will be a lot of questions that we’ll answer with a direct yes,” Williams says. And that’s the answer Redzepi is always looking for: yes, with conviction and heart.
Walking home one night after dinner service, still wearing his apron and pushing his bike alongside a canal, Redzepi reflects on anxiety, reclamation, ambition and drive. “These happy breakthroughs happen all the time,” he says. “Moments where everybody is on the edge and nervous about the whole thing and then, because we have the knowledge, it works.” Redzepi leans the bike against his home’s yellow exterior. The structure, a gut-renovated 300-year-old former blacksmith’s shop, shares one wall with a Salvation Army soup kitchen. Entering, he makes a snack of soft cheese on buttered, grilled rye before heading to bed. “We work as intensely and as profoundly as possible,” he says. “That’s the only real shield we have against failure.”