Y/Project Menswear S/S 2023 Paris

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[perhydrol]

I don't know if it's me getting used to Glenn's style or him getting more and more mature, but I would like to see him working for a couture brand. Of course some pieces are definitely overdesigned and the styling is quite heavy, but the sense of experimentation seems to bring Martens a lot of genuine joy. Not to mention that Y/Project has been gaining recognition in an organic way instead of chasing the hype.

This collection feels very Martin Margiela in some parts, some of them are more Gaultier. However, the references make so much sense in this particular universe. I don't know, I just enjoy the direction they've been heading towards.

 

[LadyJunon]

Y/Project had the all the potential to become the next Off-White or Vêtements, but he chose a more organic route and the brand and the collections are better off for it. Belgians are the saving grace in a clout-chasing wasteland.

 

[LadyJunon]

Y/Project had the all the potential to become the next Off-White or Vêtements, but he chose a more organic route and the brand and the collections are better off for it. Belgians are the saving grace in a clout-chasing wasteland.

Also the last three dress are giving me Olivier Theyskens on crack and I'm here for it.

 

[Phuel]

I don't know if it's me getting used to Glenn's style or him getting more and more mature, but I would like to see him working for a couture brand. Of course some pieces are definitely overdesigned and the styling is quite heavy, but the sense of experimentation seems to bring Martens a lot of genuine joy. Not to mention that Y/Project has been gaining recognition in an organic way instead of chasing the hype.

This collection feels very Martin Margiela in some parts, some of them are more Gaultier. However, the references make so much sense in this particular universe. I don't know, I just enjoy the direction they've been heading towards.

It’s absolutely very Gaultier A/W 92 and S/S 94 with the denim in formal design and all the xerox trompe-l’œil.

And it is all overburdened, over-designed and just too overdone in terms of design. And that it’s all in this chalky stonewashed denim wash is such a turn-off. Maybe if these were in raw, selvedge, or just a indigo wash, the impression would be more appealing aesthetically. As soon as his design proposals are offered in materials other than this chalky, dirty grey wash, they instantly improve: Sharper, more graphic, more refined, and less cumbersome, less over-designed.

He’s an undeniable talent— and in these days of lessers, especially after that useless Givenchy person’s insulting offering, this deserves some praise just out of principle. It feels of the standard that is deserving of Paris.

 

[Cocteau Stone]

I much prefer Glenn's Y/Project ventures to their Diesel ones. The experimentation and quality feels more genuine here despite the gimmicks, which is probably why the collections do err on the side of over designed because you can feel the excitement of Glenn figuring out something that works out to how they wanted it.

The collection does need a fair edit though. There is a bit too much repetition of certain things so their impact becomes lost, and some of the layering/styling could have been dialed down a tad in some looks.

And too many variations on denim shades. It's a bit unnerving when you know how much waste a single shade of denim creates, so seeing this many with that kind of treatment leaves me feeling a bit ill. No matter how sustainable the process is, it still isn't that great overall.

 

[perhydrol]

It’s absolutely very Gaultier A/W 92 and S/S 94 with the denim in formal design and all the xerox trompe-l’œil.

I've just read that those Gaultier-ish pieces come from the second season of their collaboration.

 

[Fulton St Critique]

@Phuel Love that observation with the wash of the denim, I totally agree.

I am happy to see Glenn in the moment and getting the recognition he deserves, but my only concern is that Y/Project may be moving a bit fast in terms of distribution. I have begun to see their apparel seemingly everywhere, both online and instore, and I fear they may think they are bigger than they actually are. Don’t get me wrong, from a pure design perspective it is great especially for those among us who appreciate experimental or non-traditional patterns, but the market for Glenn and Y is still relatively small.

I am just speculating so please don’t take my word for it, but I hope they have a good grasp on their inventory and accounts, because mismanaging product could really come back to bite them in the near term if they push to fast and don’t grow organically from a retail perspective.

PS: I am very familair with the histroy of the label and realize the company was not founded by GM. Even today, each season I secretly hope that just a portion of Serfaty’s aesthetic will emerge, though given its nearly the opposite of where the label is today in terms of creative direction I doubt that would happen. I just appreciate GMs risk taking and would hate to find out that the company is struggling due to poor management, that is where I am coming from.

 

[cantdesign]

beautiful clothes but i feel like it lacks some of the excitement i found in his past collections. more commercial of course. but isn’t he doing enough for the fashion world?