Hmmmm tough season to dissect. I appreciate that there seems to be more designers pushing against the wave of Philo clones and "quiet luxury", and there were some good debuts, too.
Best
- Miu Miu (much less "logo crazy" as their collections had been lately, I loved the color palette and the casting too).
- Ann Demeulemeester (I dunno if this is a controversial opinion but I thought it was beautiful! Densely layered, romantic, reminded me of her late aughts collections like S/S 07 or F/W 08).
- Chloé (after a bumpy spring collection, this one really sold me on her work for the house! Amazing color palette, lovely shapes, and just something I would see myself wearing).
- Tom Ford (alright alright, this collection grew on me! I loved the coldness of it all, and I'm excited to see where he goes with the house).
- Ferrari (can't believe this is on my "best" list, considering how awful their last collections were! Rich, lavish, and the right touch of bad taste).
-Missoni (obsessed with the silhouettes, the color palette, and the late 2000's of it all! I'd wear every outfit).
- Fendi (it doesn't get better than this! The shapes, the fabrics and furs, it was all so desirable. I'm glad grown up fashion is making a comeback).
Worst
- Saint Laurent (tbh one of the first times I didn't like his collection, S/S was much better).
- Balenciaga (just another blah collection of crappy streetwear from the worst designer of this generation. I'm extremely nervous for Gucci).
- Valentino (woof, exhausting to watch, hated the set, and the collection was still an incoherent mess. This man just can't tell a flushed out story, it's always a disjointed mess).
- Givenchy (tbh I was trying to get hyped for her debut, but it's a real letdown. Dated tailoring, weird streetwear influences, and overall just nothing to write home about).
- Balmain (much more somber than his usual outings, and somehow all the worse for it. That look with the yellow pleated dress and black stirrup leggings was one of the most vile looks I've ever seen).
- Moschino (one of the most joyless collections I've ever seen. Like a funeral procession of bad taste).
- Jil Sander (woof, what a horrible show. Bad fabrics, bad color palette, tbh their collections weren't always so bad but this was an awful way to end their tenure).
