In terms of visual brilliance, Valentino stood out, the color palette alone put it in place of its own.
I don't entirely get the enthusiasm for Fendi, it was technically highly skilled (as usual and as expected) but probably looks better seen up close rather than on a video screen (and here, the colour choices were rather dull, imo)
RR331 was a welcome come back, I hope his independent venture survives in these wretched times of capitalist fashion.
I think CWK did a very good job at Givenchy, a house that, we should remember, never really had a very definite identity. Her approach is fresh, clean, modern, the reference to the archive are there as is a certain idea of classic Parisian elegance that the house embodies. I wish she were able to transpose that to her RTW collections. And let's not event touch the menswear subject (she really might use some help there and scrap the male models on the couture runway altogether).
I suspend the subject on Chanel, VV only covered the usual tropes of the maison without really any substantial personal input. Let's give her time.
And, oh, Margiela. Can we stop pretending Galliano's work has anything to do with Margiela? I don't question his technical bravery, even if this time it felt a tad deja-vu. It's only that the link to the work of the house founder becomes thinner and thinner at every season.
p.s.: MGC's Dior deserves no more words other than what has already been said.
