Your Best & Worst Designer Debuts of S/S 2026 | Page 2 | the Fashion Spot

Your Best & Worst Designer Debuts of S/S 2026

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I’m surprised by how bad you guys reacted to Dario’s debut. Not my thing but is it that terrible? I think it’s just there.

I hated Gucci, not because of the clothes themselves, but because that kind of irony is so passé in 2025. Feels like a 60 year old man wearing an Off White hoodie + skate trying to look cool and young. Kinda ridiculous.

MB and JW put Gucci in a very bad position. They went for a subtle, “understated” fashion and Gucci being so loud feels ridiculous and not relevant.
 
If you’d asked me my immediate reaction about Dario/Versace I think I’d have said he had the worst debut. But I think that was an initial reaction to the jarring first few looks that didn’t match the pre-show vibes he was peddling. I think after sitting with it, while not the best debut, it was maybe the most thought provoking and obviously not the worst. That distinction goes to JPG. I’m now intrigued to see where Versace goes and hope they give him another go.
 
chiccestlavie said:
If you’d asked me my immediate reaction about Dario/Versace I think I’d have said he had the worst debut. But I think that was an initial reaction to the jarring first few looks that didn’t match the pre-show vibes he was peddling. I think after sitting with it, while not the best debut, it was maybe the most thought provoking and obviously not the worst. That distinction goes to JPG. I’m now intrigued to see where Versace goes and hope they give him another go.
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Dario Vitale 2025 La Collection du Scandale
 
chiccestlavie said:
If you’d asked me my immediate reaction about Dario/Versace I think I’d have said he had the worst debut. But I think that was an initial reaction to the jarring first few looks that didn’t match the pre-show vibes he was peddling. I think after sitting with it, while not the best debut, it was maybe the most thought provoking and obviously not the worst. That distinction goes to JPG. I’m now intrigued to see where Versace goes and hope they give him another go.
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My exact thought process.
I am equally intrigued by Belloti who, on the total contrary, rendered a pitch-perfect Jil Sander as of our memories, and I wonder where he can go from there.
 
I happened to enjoy Dario's debut at Versace and I have no idea why. I feel like he's got a language that could develop very well if he just GOES for it.

I enjoyed the Blazy's Chanel collection, the set, and the music, but not necessarily all the elements together. The re-see photos of the collection showing the details made me appreciate it more. Very lovely for them to collaborate with Charvet. I love my Charvet shirts.

Demna's Gucci was not as bad as I was thinking it was going to be and I actually liked some items from there. Same with PS's debut at Loewe. Glenn's Margiela hit some good spots for me too.

I am still on the fence about JWA's Dior and, like Blazy's Chanel, I need to see haute couture to really make the decision if I like it or not.

PPP's Balenciaga did nothing from me, but it was still not as bad as Lantink's JPG.
 
Best:
Jonathan Anderson - Dior
Matthieu Blazy - Chanel
Pierpaolo Piccioli - Balenciaga
Louise Trotter - Bottega Veneta
 
Best:
Belotti for Jil Sander, just because it seems he truly understands the language
Martens for RTW Margiela, loved the general sense of uncanny and dark, nothing superb but a palate cleansing after that Galliano´s mess is appreciated
Freitas - Mugler, sensual and restrictive

Disappointment, some great pieces though:
Blazy - Chanel, this could´ve been the debut of the century but fell flat
Trotter - Bottega, it looks really expensive, kudos for that
Anderson - Dior, it was a cute?... collection overall, plain cute.

Worst:
PPP for Balenciaga, christian siriano at macys with expensive fabrics level
JPG - ...
 
best:
Dior and Margiela

worst:
Gucci - already forgot about it

wanna see more to make my mind:
JPG - It was very interesting and i think was made well from what i saw. Only problem is it was a bit too far from reality but cannot say it was bad.
 
One of the worst debuts was BV for me… it was like Phoebe Philo in 2017 but without the chicness, no POV at all. Very démodé as well and very boring and insipid.
 
Dior and Chanel were the best especially Awar at the clapping, smiling and dancing
Meh was Balenciaga and the worst for me was Gucci and Versace. That's all.
 
Mrs.T said:
Dior and Chanel were the best especially Awar at the clapping, smiling and dancing
Meh was Balenciaga and the worst for me was Gucci and Versace. That's all.
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Already erased JPG from memory. It was THE worst!!
 
I think it was a great season because there’s a sense of brands going back to being themselves. That was the challenge.
Whether we like it or not is another thing…

Best Debut: Chanel by Blazy. It’s a nice debut because it gave perspective for the future while moving the brand forward. There was enough balance of Art and commerce and overall it was well executed.

Runner up: Glenn Martens for MM. Solid debut that was a kind of reset on what Margiela is and then again, it open perspective for the future.

Third: Gucci by Demna. I don’t know if the collection was great and I’m a bit scared of what to come but it was confident even if it relied too much on Tom Ford and wasn’t moving things forward.

Fourth: JPG by Duran. I liked the collection and I like the energy. It made me curious about what to come but there’s also now a pressure to be more commercial, meaning doing clothes that stand on their own without shocking tactics.

Worst: Versace by Vitale: The clothes were Versace but not the attitude. Maybe he should try to understand Versace. He will see that he can do modern clothes, even all blacks clothes and made them still be Versace.
 
Best - Jil Sander. It was focused, wearable, and showed a true understanding of the brand. Definitely spoke to the original Jil Sander customer.

Worst - this is a tough one. JPG was bad, but at least it was kind of laughable and ridiculous. Margiela was bad for me because it was a lifting of the Margiela codes and ideas with none of the creative spirit, mystique and subversion; but at least it was wearable. Gucci was just lazy.

But the absolute worst for me was Loewe. At first, I just felt it looked uninteresting. Then I read some reviews of the collection and I thought - how absurd. Why would you shred leather to create a terry cloth effect on a pair of pants, when you could just make it in terry cloth? And why weave strings of leather into a t-shirt just to make it malleable? Ridiculous and pretentious.
 
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