Your Best & Worst Designer Debuts of S/S 2026

[thiago:)]

^ I'm really hoping they keep Dario because he seems to be the one who's taken more risk...

 

[Creative]

I’m surprised by how bad you guys reacted to Dario’s debut. Not my thing but is it that terrible? I think it’s just there.

I hated Gucci, not because of the clothes themselves, but because that kind of irony is so passé in 2025. Feels like a 60 year old man wearing an Off White hoodie + skate trying to look cool and young. Kinda ridiculous.

MB and JW put Gucci in a very bad position. They went for a subtle, “understated” fashion and Gucci being so loud feels ridiculous and not relevant.

 

[chiccestlavie]

If you’d asked me my immediate reaction about Dario/Versace I think I’d have said he had the worst debut. But I think that was an initial reaction to the jarring first few looks that didn’t match the pre-show vibes he was peddling. I think after sitting with it, while not the best debut, it was maybe the most thought provoking and obviously not the worst. That distinction goes to JPG. I’m now intrigued to see where Versace goes and hope they give him another go.

 

[Monsieur Cristobal]

If you’d asked me my immediate reaction about Dario/Versace I think I’d have said he had the worst debut. But I think that was an initial reaction to the jarring first few looks that didn’t match the pre-show vibes he was peddling. I think after sitting with it, while not the best debut, it was maybe the most thought provoking and obviously not the worst. That distinction goes to JPG. I’m now intrigued to see where Versace goes and hope they give him another go.

Dario Vitale 2025 La Collection du Scandale

 

[chiccestlavie]

Dario Vitale 2025 La Collection du Scandale

Or at least pervy Milanese bourgeois

 

[ecnerretneerg]

Best:
Jil Sander, Dior, Versace, Chanel

Worst:
Bottega Veneta

 

[yslforever]

If you’d asked me my immediate reaction about Dario/Versace I think I’d have said he had the worst debut. But I think that was an initial reaction to the jarring first few looks that didn’t match the pre-show vibes he was peddling. I think after sitting with it, while not the best debut, it was maybe the most thought provoking and obviously not the worst. That distinction goes to JPG. I’m now intrigued to see where Versace goes and hope they give him another go.

My exact thought process.
I am equally intrigued by Belloti who, on the total contrary, rendered a pitch-perfect Jil Sander as of our memories, and I wonder where he can go from there.

 

[Salvatore]

I happened to enjoy Dario's debut at Versace and I have no idea why. I feel like he's got a language that could develop very well if he just GOES for it.

I enjoyed the Blazy's Chanel collection, the set, and the music, but not necessarily all the elements together. The re-see photos of the collection showing the details made me appreciate it more. Very lovely for them to collaborate with Charvet. I love my Charvet shirts.

Demna's Gucci was not as bad as I was thinking it was going to be and I actually liked some items from there. Same with PS's debut at Loewe. Glenn's Margiela hit some good spots for me too.

I am still on the fence about JWA's Dior and, like Blazy's Chanel, I need to see haute couture to really make the decision if I like it or not.

PPP's Balenciaga did nothing from me, but it was still not as bad as Lantink's JPG.

 

[cul8tr]

Best:
Jonathan Anderson - Dior
Matthieu Blazy - Chanel
Pierpaolo Piccioli - Balenciaga
Louise Trotter - Bottega Veneta

 

[Axel Mendoza]

Best:
Belotti for Jil Sander, just because it seems he truly understands the language
Martens for RTW Margiela, loved the general sense of uncanny and dark, nothing superb but a palate cleansing after that Galliano´s mess is appreciated
Freitas - Mugler, sensual and restrictive

Disappointment, some great pieces though:
Blazy - Chanel, this could´ve been the debut of the century but fell flat
Trotter - Bottega, it looks really expensive, kudos for that
Anderson - Dior, it was a cute?... collection overall, plain cute.

Worst:
PPP for Balenciaga, christian siriano at macys with expensive fabrics level
JPG - ...

 

[tourbillions]

best:
Dior and Margiela

worst:
Gucci - already forgot about it

wanna see more to make my mind:
JPG - It was very interesting and i think was made well from what i saw. Only problem is it was a bit too far from reality but cannot say it was bad.

 

[helmutnotdead]

Matthieu and Simone eat them up and left no crumbs

 

[Creative]

One of the worst debuts was BV for me… it was like Phoebe Philo in 2017 but without the chicness, no POV at all. Very démodé as well and very boring and insipid.

 

[Demna]

Best: Versace

 

[Mrs.T]

Dior and Chanel were the best especially Awar at the clapping, smiling and dancing
Meh was Balenciaga and the worst for me was Gucci and Versace. That's all.

 

[Mrs.T]

Dior and Chanel were the best especially Awar at the clapping, smiling and dancing
Meh was Balenciaga and the worst for me was Gucci and Versace. That's all.

Already erased JPG from memory. It was THE worst!!