Marc Jacobs S/S 11 New York

[Janard Williams]

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[disco54]

nytimes.com

Marc Jacobs: Mauve and Iris
By CATHY HORYN
In one of his periodic 1970s flashbacks, Marc Jacobs tonight seemed to point to Jodie Foster, the teenage prostitute Iris in “Taxi Driver,” and to images of women in mauve and flowers, perhaps especially those of the illustrator Antonio Lopez. Iris was an obvious allusion, because of the turn-back-brim hats, the curly hair, and the number of high-waist shorts and small knit tops in Mr. Jacobs’ spring 2011 collection. It was Ruth Morley who designed the costumes for “Taxi Driver.”

But you would have no trouble thinking of other 70s figures. “Lots of New York dolls,” Mr. Jacobs said backstage. He added, “After last season’s beige, I wanted to see more color.”

The colors were heady — mauve and pink mixed with goldenrod and tobacco, melon, peach, deep lilac (for a beautiful draped halter dress in charmeuse), cloudy pinks, gold (as glitter on platforms, as trim on evening looks). In the models’ hair were orchids. There were also corsages or a cluster of flowers on a choker. And, of course, the wide-brim straw hats in contrasting colors.

This wasn’t Mr. Jacobs’ most moving collection, but it had a finessing glamour and was a natural follow to last season’s elegant show and longer lengths. Staged in the round, with a gold centerpiece that looked like a cooling tower (someone joked that the structure was a repurposing of Karl Lagerfeld’s giant gold lion from his July Chanel show), the collection included tailored pants suits and shorts in what looked like washed duchess satin, a slim shirt dress in a dot-print silk satin, generously flounced peasant dresses and full skirts in cotton, below-the-knit knit dresses in a Missoni zig-zag pattern with long cardigans, and some lovely, floaty dresses in a wide-striped sheer cotton.
The music was Vivaldi’s “Summer,” from “The Four Seasons.”

 

[fashionista-ta]

sorry to have wasted your time....i figured they were better than screencaps

I assumed he was referring to the screenshots, but it's a natural progression ... first all you can get is not so great shots, then with the Getty logo all over, then later we'll get better images--but we have to wait for those. It's all good ... I'm tired & I'm not gonna go watch the video right now, so I appreciate all of them

 

[Squizree]

It's so positvely retro!! I don't think I've ever enjoyed a Marc Jacobs collection as much as this. Marc is really good at revisiting past decades because he hits the era so perfectly. He's nailed the psychadelic colours and the glamourous 70s vibe.
It kinda reminds me of Halston...

 

[mistress_f]

still 50/50 about the collection, cause there are too many pieces i really hate, but these looks are amazing

daylife.com (they have almost every outfit up)

 

[simons]

not usually a big fan of marc but i liked this collection, lots of very nice wearable yet still not boring pieces. the references are too obvious though but i think take away some of the styling and out of the setting (the lighting and set makes the clothes seem very dated), it can look very good.

 

[stellachiara]

So 70s glam! Love it!

 

[Zazie]

Marc Jacobs does retro because he hasn't the faintest idea how to innovate, cut or design something new and unseen, he just styles and, err..."adapts" from other designers' (Prada, YSL, CdG, etc.) older collections. This entire collection reminds me of Miu Miu Resort 2011 but done with tastelessness.

 

[Gaultier_Bandit]

A pure mish-mash of references...Rykiel, YSL, Miu Miu Resort 2011....hmmmmmmm

 

[Not Plain Jane]

Very 70s! Some of the flowy looks are lovely, the colours are also interesting for spring, very different from all the white we've been seeing in NYC. I am not super keen on the satin or suiting looks, but they are of a whole, and thus in keeping with the overall direction and feel of this collection. It's quite different in feel from the fall collection which was so demure. This one is definitely not that!

Like someone else said, I actually often prefer Marc by Marc. So I am looking forward to that one.

 

[whatkatjadid]

Very Saint Laurent indeed. I liked it though. The warm colours, the 70's-bohemian vibe. Hated the shiny pieces though. I thought the styling worked very well with the clothes, the hard, black eyes against the bright colours.

 

[clocked]

i like it, even if it is very referential...so is art, though

 

[disco54]

This collection was meant to be a bit vulgar , hence the satin and exaggerated orchids , I loved Fall more , but this seemed like a natural flow . There is a lot of emotion in the clothes , I can see how some people would be averse to this but its a kind of collection which can grow on you.

 

[liberty33r1b]

the colors are just a breath of fresh air, wonderful!

 

[Botnus]

Minus the Dior Hair/Makeup, i adore this collection.

 

[ultramarine]

I concurr with most of the opinions posted here ... Jacobs as usual just picks up some pieces and style them accordingly and voila .. a collection. Its almost uninspired but carefully edited and those satin pieces looks very stuffy and .. I wanna say cheap but thats not quite the word.

Loved loved loved how it was styled (perfect hair + makeup) and it'll definitively stand up in the racks come SS 2011.

PS Note as moderator: Please do not refer to models by name when talking about a dress in particular. This is D&C, not Supporting Cast. Thank you!

 

[lmelanie]

Marc Jacobs is back! Thanks for making me broke again!

 

[rosalynn]

I liked this collection, although want to see HQs. The pics so far are really appreciated, including the Getty images. I'm always hesitant to comment because Marc's shows are all smoke and mirrors, and it's easy to get drawn in with the music, the set and everything and heap praise on the collection before realising in the cold light of day that it's not actually that strong.

But having slept on it I do like this collection. The colours actually blew me away, such great use of colour. I love the use of white this NYFW, but I loved this collection for not having any.

I really loved the oversized orchid belts, some of the dresses were amazing, and I thought the styling was pretty good. I didn't like the glossier pieces in satin, but I really enjoyed the show and the collection.

 

[Mutterlein]

this is pretty good although a bit too retro to be appropriate

 

[lola rose]

i cannot wait for the HQs... but even now i can say that i love this collection. the more i watch it the more i love it. i bet it must have looked great watching it live.
the styling was excellenet, i love the hair with the orchyds and the colour pallete is amazing. the only thing that bothers me is the satin - it has never been my thing, but rathter than that - love marc!