Great set, interesting music, hair and makeup. The clothes on the other hand felt very secondary. Firstly, I just can't help but notice the blatant references in some pieces to Prada S/S 13. This collection just confirms that he is very much "inspired" by Mrs Prada. Secondly, when he plays with volumes, like with the oversized jackets here, it does seem as though they were made for someone so much bigger and the person didn't show up. It just looks so chunky, more like an after thought and not executed well enough. Lastly, the embroideries and embellishments are questionable at best. They worked well on some outfits and massacred some others. After his stellar outing last season, and the fact that this is the only brand he has full creative control of, one would expect better. It's a rather disappointing outing. That being said, there are some wonderful pieces here and I totally dig the military theme.