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lacma.orgMadeleine Vionnet (France, 1876 - 1975)
Woman's Dress, circa 1925
Silk chiffon, silk crepe
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lacma.orgMadeleine Vionnet (France, 1876 - 1975)
Woman's Dress, circa 1925
Silk chiffon, silk crepe
Photo © Stéphane Piera / Galliera / Roger-ViolletRobe du soir de Madeleine Vionnet, vers 1924
La robe longue, souvent prolongée d'une traîne, est de mise lors des galas de mode et lors des très nombreuses soirées de bienfaisance organisées après-guerre. Dans leurs colonnes, les chroniqueurs mondains détaillaient les modèles de haute couture portés par les invitées. Brodée de perles blanches, de strass verts et de fils métalliques cuivrés, cette superbe robe en mousseline de soie verte dégradée signée Madeleine Vionnet a dû faire sensation !
flickrGown, 1938
Madeleine Vionnet
Smoke-gray chiffon, rhinestones and silver beads. Worn by Mrs. Potter Palmer II when she was presented to the Queen of England in 1938.
condenaststore.comThe photographs of Edward Steichen are characterized by a bold sense of visual drama as well as a newly independent feminine ideal. Both elements are present in this image of models Ruth Covell and Marion Morehouse that appeared in the October 15, 1932, Vogue. Morehouse, a Steichen favorite, soon married poet e.e. cummings; Covell wears an ensemble by Madeleine Vionnet of a long white crepe dress with a dark sash.
Madeleine Vionnet, puriste de la mode
24 June 2009 - 31 January 2010
Les Arts Décoratifs is devoting a major exhibition to Madeleine Vionnet. In 1952, the couturière donated 22 dresses, 750 dress patterns and 75 photo albums to Les Arts Décoratifs. Selected from her major works between 1912 and 1939 and now restored with the aid of Natixis, this exceptional collection of avant-garde designs can at last be shown to the public. Madeleine Vionnet’s entire career was marked by her constant quest for freedom in extremely refined but unfettered designs close to antique drapery, which continue to fascinate couturiers such as Azzedine Alaia, Issey Miyake, Yohji Yamamoto and John Galliano.
Source: nytimes.comThe designer was an absolute revolutionary, using crepe-de-chine lining material against the straight grain of conventional cutting. By the end of the first displays, you see not only how a "toile" or pattern was laid out, but also slithering evening dresses, twinkling with embellishment - although, as Vionnet said: "I only like decoration if it plays second to the architecture of a dress."
Photo: Patrick Gries
Source: nytimes.comNo wonder that John Galliano - whose career was built on a revival of the bias cutting for which Vionnet was famous - is not only passionate about this new Paris exhibition, but is also urging all his staff to go see it. Nor that Karl Lagerfeld, the re-interpreter of Chanel, is prepared to acknowledge the importance of the Vionnet inventions, even if fashion history has crowned Coco as women's liberator.
Photo: Patrick Gries
The first object to catch the eye is not a dress, not even the extraordinary experiments with a new geometry in Vionnet's early career. It is the articulated wooden doll on which the couturier, who did not sketch or draw, tried out the shapes and drapes that re-invented the way that women covered their bodies.
Photo: Luc Boegly
Source: nytimes.com"Madeleine Vionnet, Puriste de la Mode" is an intelligent and illuminating exhibition and an example of excellence from its curator, Pamela Golbin. For she tells the story of a determined woman with a visionary attitude entirely through the clothes - adding a touch of technology in small computerized screens, each of which shows an illustration of a garment in its historical context.
Photo: Patrick Gries