1889-1958 Lucien Lelong

[Idoru]

Lucien Lelong's wife Natalie Paley in one of his creations.
Vogue, 1933

 

[Idoru]

Vogue, 1931. Again, Natalie Paley in Lelong, taken by the photographer Hoyningen-Huene.

 

[DosViolines]

Thanks for the info and pics
Nice to have a Lelong expert around

Do you happen to have any images of his designs that pre-date Dior's New Look? I'd love to see the similarities.

 

[Idoru]

Christian Dior for Lelong

It is very hard to obtain images of garments created by Dior for Lelong due to the Nazi occupation of Paris in WWII. Dior co-designed with Pierre Balmain during the war, so it is not always evident which designs are Dior, and which are Balmain. However, starting in 1946, after Balmain leaves to start his own house and the war ends, we start to see more garments. Below is a great comparison of a Dior for Lelong suit (background) around 1944, and Dior suit from 1947 (foreground). Note the exaggerated proportions. Scan taken from the Musee de la Mode catalog.

Here is a Theater of Fashion doll dressed in a design by Dior for Lelong:

Here is another TOF doll that we exhibited in the MFIT exhibition on Lelong. Again, it was designed by Dior, but is unmistakably for Lelong. The name of the doll, Faience, refers to the porcelain that Lelong collected. All you need to do is cut the gown shorter and you have the "New Look" (which ironically is really an "old look" with it's attempt to put women back into the corset.)

 

[DosViolines]

Lucien Lelong Party Frock
French, circa 1926
The dress and overblouse of gray georgette, the dress finely pleated, sewn with rows of rhinestones, the waist defined with band of rhinestones and central crescent shape, the overblouse sleeveless, sewn with regularly spaced rhinestones and rhinestone band at bottom, size 14, labeled: Lucien Lelong/16 Rue Matignon/Paris/Modele Depose/Made In France.
Good condition, general wear, discoloration at armscyes of underbodice, vertical slit in chiffon on left side of underbodice, faint discolored area on overblouse of front.

doylenewyork

 

[eugenius]

Thanks for bringing this in!
How I love these "Designers from Back in the Day" threads!

 

[SomethingElse]

http://www.lucienlelong.com - sadly, only perfumerie.

kci.or.jp . heavenofgowns.com

 

[farren fashion]

threads like these are what make me glad i happened upon tfs. i learn so much on here that i wouldn't otherwise learn elsewhere, especially since i live so far away in hawaii. thank you for starting the thread. lelong's work is beautiful. i love the chiffon dress.

 

[Whitelinen]

^ Ditto. And wait until we get the sub-forum for retired/deceased designers (wink wink, mods).

 

[farren fashion]

^^ looking forward to it. =]

 

[DosViolines]

George Hoyningen-Huene

Lelong Bathing Suits
Ph. George Hoyningen-Huene
1929

luminous-lint

 

[SomethingElse]

opera coat, circa 1925, labelled 15 Rue Matignon, Paris, of soft black velvet the hem and sleeve linings of jazzy pink, black and gold brocade, edged in brown rabbit fur, massive facetted bakelite button to the dropped waist.

kerrytaylorauctions.com

 

[DosViolines]

More images of dress in post #5:

mccord-museum.qc.ca

 

[DosViolines]

Lucien Lelong (France, 1889 - 1958)
Woman's Coat Dress and Slip, circa 1926
Costume/clothing principle attire/entire body; Costume/clothing underwear/entire body, Silk faille and silk velvet with silk velvet and lamé appliqué

lacma.org

 

[DosViolines]

Lucien Lelong, 1928 © Egidio Scaioni / Galliera / Roger Viollet

Café Mode

 

[snowqueen]

thanks for this thread .. i must confess i had actually never heard of him until today

i was researching hubert givenchy and i stumbled across this designer.. givenchy and dior both worked for lelong in there early carers .. and then i found this thread so found out more about him.. and im impressed .. his designs are so chic

and i can see inspiration and simularities between dior/givenchy and lelong

so he really is litterally the father of couture haha

 

[DosViolines]

Egidio Scaioni. Lucien Lelong, 1925.
Ensemble en maille "Coupe Fil"

© Egidio Scaioni / Galliera / Roger-Viollet
femmesplus.fr

 

[DosViolines]

Lucien LELONG, Manteau du soir Byzance, 1927. Photographie Egidio Scaioni

(c) Egidio Scaioni/ Galliera/ Roger-Viollet
artscape.fr

 

[DosViolines]

Lucien Lelong, Maillot Sirène, vers 1927.

Copyright & courtesy: Egidio Scaioni / Musée Galliera / Roger Viollet.
artonight.com

 

[DosViolines]

Vestido de noche de Lucien Lelong (1935). Lucien Lelong abrió su atelier en 1919, y fue muy admirado por su técnica. Sus creaciones destacaban la belleza de los tejidos más que la originalidad del diseño.

Evening gown by Lucien Lelong (1935). Lucien Lelong opened his atelier in 1919, and very was admired for his technique. His creations emphasized the beauty of the textile more than the originality of the design.

(Foto: Kyoto Costume Institute, Takashi Hatakeyama).

elmundo.es