1980s-1990s Karl Lagerfeld independent

[gius]

In 1984 Karl Lagerfeld started his own label, and from then on presented 2 collections a year as solely Karl Lagerfeld creations. This has continued in spite of all the other collections he creates.

In the late 80's, he took up the design of porcelain for the West German pottery firm Hutchenrehter and has also found time to continue to design for films and the theatre, as well as neckwear and eyewear for all his contracts.
In 1986 he launched an American Sportswear line, a semi-annual collection with an American point of view.

fashionmodeldirectory.com

 

[gius]

US Vogue Sept 1987
scan by HFGL

 

[Spiral1532]

I've always thought that the typical Lagerfeld client would also be a client of Geoffrey Beene, as both labels had a similar Modernist bent, and both designers loved using metallic fabrics/embellishements.

 

[jeremydante]

Similar vibes to his eventual works at Chanel and Fendi from those magazine ad scans. Love it.

 

[blueorchid]

Vogue US February 1985
Karl Lagerfeld S/S 85
Photo Karl Lagerfeld
Model Lynne Koester


Vogue Archive via justaguy

 

[kasper!]

Was Lagerfeld Gallery the same with Karl Lagerfeld?

 

[UltimateF1]

Was Lagerfeld Gallery the same with Karl Lagerfeld?

Karl launched his own brand under his name in 1984 and started showing fashion shows in Paris each season from 1984-1997 (pinterest has images from 1986-1997 )




Then in 1998 he rebranded his company to "Lagerfeld Gallery" targeting a more high-end clothing while his silhouettes were much sharper and more masculine onwards. He did not do any fashion shows between 1998-2000. In Spring 2001, he started showing again in Paris each season until 2006:



In 2006, he rebranded again from "Lagerfeld Gallery" back to "Karl Lagerfeld" and his first show under new name was Fall 2006 which was held in New York (i think it also kinda related to Lagerfeld confidential movie from 2005 where he was walking around New York and talking about the city) and he shows both womenswear and menswear. Then for some unknown reason, for Spring Summer 2007 he started showing in Paris again and only womenswear. He was showing each season until Fall 2010. Afterwards his brand continued, but they did not do any fashion shows anymore, only look books/presentations and he focused more on Chanel/Fendi.

There's very little about Karl's own brand unfortunately. Every time I look for Karl's past collections, only Chanel, Chloe or Fendi pops up but his own brand is quite omitted.



sources: firstview, vogue, pinterest

 

[Lola701]

Was Lagerfeld Gallery the same with Karl Lagerfeld?

The different alterations of his brand has to do with it rocky financial history.

Lagerfeld Gallery if I remember well, was actually the first and only time when he owned his house. From 1984 to 1997, it was part of different groups: Bidermann, Revillon (and Karl designed also for Revillon while designing for Fendi lol) and Vendome (that will become Richemont).

Lagerfeld Gallery was first and foremost an kind of Art/Photo Gallery with a retail space (they sold the Baguette of Fendi there at the beginning) designed with Andrée Putman. He had two galleries: one in Paris, the other one in Monaco.

Then he started doing fashion but the house financial stability was achieved with the licensing deals he had under the Lagerfeld brand and the various collaborations he did (like the one with Diesel for example).

When Tommy bought the Lagerfeld Gallery, he bought all the operations and then the main brand was renamed Karl Lagerfeld and he did the inaugural collection in NYC. They didn’t changed anything from the way the brand was operating before (main collection + licenses + collaborations) until he stopped designing and they relaunched the brand as contemporary operation in 2013.

 

[blueorchid]

Vanity Fair September 1985
"Heavy Furniture"
Photographer: Daniel Jouanneau
Stylist: Marie-Paul Pellé
Models: Unknown
Hair: Lyne Bertin
Makeup: Michel Delarue


Vanity Fair via justaguy

 

[blueorchid]

US Vogue September 1986:
Karl Lagerfeld F/W 86/87
Photographer: Karl Lagerfeld
Model: Unknown


Vogue Archive via justaguy

 

[blueorchid]

US Vogue September 1987
Karl Lagerfeld F/W 87/88
Photographer: Karl Lagerfeld
Model: Unknown


Vogue Archive via justaguy