Salvatore
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The Red Carpet Highlights of... The 82nd Annual Venice Film Festival 2025!
A Retrospective: Gucci & Yves Saint Laurent under Tom Ford (1995-2004)
- Thread starter Sweet rus
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dior_couture1245
Fat Karl
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^^Thank you SOO much Salvatore!!!!
Salvatore
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God I miss him so much.
I mean he is still relevant, but it is different. I hate to be reheating a debate that is, and should be dead, but he had a voice: a vision. It would be most amazing to see what he would be doing today - in Gucci and YSL.
I loved the fact that he adored the human body. I loved that he never put out anything obviously and extremely tasteless. I loved his taste, his hand, his appeal, his stance in fashion. His shows were never an overkill of ideas and inspirations, but a solid transfer of concept to somewhat sensible reality. (well, not reality, but a gorgeous set of opulent and addictive make-belief)
I miss seeing Liya, Carmen, Natalia, Rie, Erin, MariaCarla and Daria in those slinky and indecent clothes. The highest heels, the lowest cuts. The nude lips, the bedroom eyes. His may not have been the most intellectual output in fashion, but damn it when clothes were that gorgeous, who cares about all the ridicule and scrutiny behind it all?
To say the least, yes it was gimmicky, but I wish I could see a designer playful and ballsy enough to paint his models' nipples purple. I am perhaps alone in that. I am happy that Tisci is bringing that Roitfeld look back, maybe in some ways better than Tom ever did. Hopefully, Givenchy will be what Gucci was in its heydays in terms of deciding taste and silhouette - sooner than later.
I mean he is still relevant, but it is different. I hate to be reheating a debate that is, and should be dead, but he had a voice: a vision. It would be most amazing to see what he would be doing today - in Gucci and YSL.
I loved the fact that he adored the human body. I loved that he never put out anything obviously and extremely tasteless. I loved his taste, his hand, his appeal, his stance in fashion. His shows were never an overkill of ideas and inspirations, but a solid transfer of concept to somewhat sensible reality. (well, not reality, but a gorgeous set of opulent and addictive make-belief)
I miss seeing Liya, Carmen, Natalia, Rie, Erin, MariaCarla and Daria in those slinky and indecent clothes. The highest heels, the lowest cuts. The nude lips, the bedroom eyes. His may not have been the most intellectual output in fashion, but damn it when clothes were that gorgeous, who cares about all the ridicule and scrutiny behind it all?
To say the least, yes it was gimmicky, but I wish I could see a designer playful and ballsy enough to paint his models' nipples purple. I am perhaps alone in that. I am happy that Tisci is bringing that Roitfeld look back, maybe in some ways better than Tom ever did. Hopefully, Givenchy will be what Gucci was in its heydays in terms of deciding taste and silhouette - sooner than later.
Northern Star
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Totally agree with you're whole post pashaB)
Well said.
Well said.
pasha although i pretty much agree with everything you said, i dont share what you said in this words I quoted.
maybe it was because of his too powerful "stance in fashion", that with time he lost a little perspective of what was right for the fashion industry zeitgeist. he kept imposing a vision that wasnt needed anymore. and i'm not just talking the obvious sex, but in general. he had a very particular way of doing things. for a long time one always had a slight feeling of déjà vu while keeping the newness of his work. that, i think is because tom obviously knew his classics and references. what he didnt do maybe was renewing his sources of information/inspiration, and that turned him selfreferential. Needless to say that is a terrible mistake for anyone in any professional field.
in a way i am glad he went "away" for some time, and is back now with the batteries fully charged now.
you can tell he's changed by the way he has approached the tom ford brand. this is so not what he did for gucci, it's totally new!! still being at gucci it would've been very hard to change the whole brand structure in such a short period of time (even if that's what he thought the brand needed)
Of course he was a tyrant about his vision and what he thought was needed to make Gucci ultimately his Gucci. And yes; 70s were ever present. But he never did the paint by the numbers direct inspiration/costume history/runway transition - so literal, so cloying, so dense that it became dubious or senseless at the end. At the time, many designers were doing exactly that. And that was -and always is- simply sad for any designer. Tom never lost his relevance and distinction among his peers.
You saw the Obi belt in 2002, the cherry blossoms, the rockstar cuts, the Grecian draping, the Bladerunner jackets... but never something soo deep and dense that it suffocated the modernity he presented. Was he 'of his time' all the time? Maybe not, but he was the person who approved or denied the Milanese silhouette at the time. Look at what Giannini is doing now: take one thread of inspiration and smear it all over the clothes like there is no intellectuality or creativity left in fashion. Yet, some people close to Gucci circles call her attitude 'modern' since everyone wears the H&M or Zara fashions now, even the rich. And that's what her clothes look like. They call them 'young'. Is that any better than sticking with what you are sure to be applicable -and I daresay- beautiful every season as Tom always could accomplish? No. I don't think it is.
I am also happy he is doing new things, but in terms of being self-referential: I don't want to sound too pessimistic, but who isn't self-referential really? Marc is still the same Marc, Galliano is still the same Galliano. When they attempt to do something different, people hate their collections with such passion, I fear for the security of their lives. Same is true with Miuccia, Karl, D&G, or even Alber Elbaz and Ricardo Tisci. Their best collections are always the ones they steal from themselves.
I disagree with you on this point: it is a terrible mistake to be overly and overtly repetitive, but at the end of the day, people go to Armani for one type of look, Versace for another, Chanel for something else, and Prada for something different. But what sells and becomes distinctive about these brands, hence designers, are their classic looks and route in fashion.
I am sure Tom would follow today's trends if he stayed at the helm of Gucci.
He would create the 'it' bag during the 2005-06 seasons, the 'sensual' ethereal gowns later, the frigid black numbers last year, and the recession chic this season... but in his own way. Plus, even though he says what he does today is very different than his Gucci days, most of his clothes do carry his signature edge in menswear - that he crafted during his stay at Gucci and YSL. Some of his looks are exactly the same with better detailing and maybe more expensive materials. He is not doing anything that different today, plus, it was him who elevated the 'tailor-made' menswear over at Gucci and YSL what they are today. He was always after the exclusive, as he should have been. And frankly, the tailor-made segment of Gucci's menswear is their only saving grace nowadays, because they can still cut a mean suit. Hopefully, that will be one part Giannini will not attempt to touch.
You saw the Obi belt in 2002, the cherry blossoms, the rockstar cuts, the Grecian draping, the Bladerunner jackets... but never something soo deep and dense that it suffocated the modernity he presented. Was he 'of his time' all the time? Maybe not, but he was the person who approved or denied the Milanese silhouette at the time. Look at what Giannini is doing now: take one thread of inspiration and smear it all over the clothes like there is no intellectuality or creativity left in fashion. Yet, some people close to Gucci circles call her attitude 'modern' since everyone wears the H&M or Zara fashions now, even the rich. And that's what her clothes look like. They call them 'young'. Is that any better than sticking with what you are sure to be applicable -and I daresay- beautiful every season as Tom always could accomplish? No. I don't think it is.
I am also happy he is doing new things, but in terms of being self-referential: I don't want to sound too pessimistic, but who isn't self-referential really? Marc is still the same Marc, Galliano is still the same Galliano. When they attempt to do something different, people hate their collections with such passion, I fear for the security of their lives. Same is true with Miuccia, Karl, D&G, or even Alber Elbaz and Ricardo Tisci. Their best collections are always the ones they steal from themselves.
I disagree with you on this point: it is a terrible mistake to be overly and overtly repetitive, but at the end of the day, people go to Armani for one type of look, Versace for another, Chanel for something else, and Prada for something different. But what sells and becomes distinctive about these brands, hence designers, are their classic looks and route in fashion.
I am sure Tom would follow today's trends if he stayed at the helm of Gucci.
He would create the 'it' bag during the 2005-06 seasons, the 'sensual' ethereal gowns later, the frigid black numbers last year, and the recession chic this season... but in his own way. Plus, even though he says what he does today is very different than his Gucci days, most of his clothes do carry his signature edge in menswear - that he crafted during his stay at Gucci and YSL. Some of his looks are exactly the same with better detailing and maybe more expensive materials. He is not doing anything that different today, plus, it was him who elevated the 'tailor-made' menswear over at Gucci and YSL what they are today. He was always after the exclusive, as he should have been. And frankly, the tailor-made segment of Gucci's menswear is their only saving grace nowadays, because they can still cut a mean suit. Hopefully, that will be one part Giannini will not attempt to touch.
disco54
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I found this video of Toms very influential collection from fall 1996 , when gucci was sexy and classy . Eventhough the collection is from the mid 90s , the clothes still can be worn today for the most part . Its quite a tragedy to see what gucci has become since he left anyways enjoy
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=njFcEohDJBQ&feature=related
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=njFcEohDJBQ&feature=related
Last edited by a moderator:
j´adore dior
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A few days ago I was looking an old Paris vogue from 2004 and felt a little nostalgic when coming across Gucci´s ads with Daria, noy only because of the image of the brand but basically because the clothes were much better!!, Gucci has turned into such a shame.
Then I saw the YSL ads with Gema and wow again, so rich and elaborated, although I think Stefano is doing a great job at YSL, it would be so cool to see him back in full force, catwlak shows included, I hope that gossip about Alessandra being with him once again are true!
Then I saw the YSL ads with Gema and wow again, so rich and elaborated, although I think Stefano is doing a great job at YSL, it would be so cool to see him back in full force, catwlak shows included, I hope that gossip about Alessandra being with him once again are true!
Street_a_Licious
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yeah, that YSL collection with the fishnet stockings, velvet jackets and silk minidresses was SOOOOOO sexy!!! Pilati does great things, but it kinda lacks the sexappeal these days.
There are so many photos i would like to post here, but they are all in my computer: I don't know what the sources are anymore! Plus, they are not about his life 'after Gucci' - they are about his life at Gucci.
I miss those days. I was very young and looking at those magazines I always wanted to belong to that opulent Gucci universe he created and represented himself... Looking at those models, the impression on their faces, the clothes, the image, even the lighting. Everything was perfect and so gilded with opulence and freedom.
I belong to the minority who prefers his YSL to Pilati's. Without any doubt at all. His vision was so perfect - rich and heavy with glamor. I hate that very simplistic description, but it was that - true 'modern' French glamor. People must see that it was him and his team that made YSL what it is today - before Ford, YSL was a company with millions of licensing deals that were selling plastic sandals for 20 bucks. He elevated the brand so much higher than anyone else could ever do. And while doing taht, it made the dusty brand young again - hip and modern. Even Pilati's vision sometimes looks dated to me.
Tom was one of the few designers who could use heavy velvets and black lace/brocade and could manage to make them look young.
I miss those days. I was very young and looking at those magazines I always wanted to belong to that opulent Gucci universe he created and represented himself... Looking at those models, the impression on their faces, the clothes, the image, even the lighting. Everything was perfect and so gilded with opulence and freedom.
I belong to the minority who prefers his YSL to Pilati's. Without any doubt at all. His vision was so perfect - rich and heavy with glamor. I hate that very simplistic description, but it was that - true 'modern' French glamor. People must see that it was him and his team that made YSL what it is today - before Ford, YSL was a company with millions of licensing deals that were selling plastic sandals for 20 bucks. He elevated the brand so much higher than anyone else could ever do. And while doing taht, it made the dusty brand young again - hip and modern. Even Pilati's vision sometimes looks dated to me.
Tom was one of the few designers who could use heavy velvets and black lace/brocade and could manage to make them look young.
Street_a_Licious
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Can someone please upload a picture of the infamous velvet hipster look that Tom did at Gucci?
"hipster"???
if you mean, the current "hipster"-look, Tom never did something that attrocious
source: http://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/wor...n-designers-go-All-the-way-to-the-bottom.html
You're getting me all confused now man.
I think the 'HIPsters' and 'hipsters' are two very different things, lol.
I think the 'hipster you are referring to are hiphuggers.
...would be her most famous Gucci look by Tom Ford. The ad featured Amber in actual velvet low-rise hiphugger pants. Also, Gwyneth wore the famous burgundy velvet tux designed by Tom, and images can be found in his website - the editorial advertising, not with Gwyn in them.
source: http://www.monstersandcritics.com
I think the 'hipster you are referring to are hiphuggers.
...would be her most famous Gucci look by Tom Ford. The ad featured Amber in actual velvet low-rise hiphugger pants. Also, Gwyneth wore the famous burgundy velvet tux designed by Tom, and images can be found in his website - the editorial advertising, not with Gwyn in them.
source: http://www.monstersandcritics.com
http://www.mariotestino.com/file/2911
http://www.mariotestino.com/file/2885
These are what you are looking for. I hope the links work.
http://www.mariotestino.com/file/2885
These are what you are looking for. I hope the links work.
Street_a_Licious
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yeah, hip huggers make more sense. lol
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