A Retrospective : US Vogue under Edna Woolman Chase (1914-1952)

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Edna Woolman Chase (née Allaway; March 14, 1877 – March 21, 1957) was an American who served as editor-in-chief of Vogue magazine from January 1914 to December 1951.

Early life
Chase was born on March 14, 1877, in Asbury Park, New Jersey. She was the daughter of Franklyn Allaway and Laura Woolman.

After her parents divorced, Chase was raised by her Quaker grandparents. She moved in with her mother in New York as a teenager.

In 1902, she married Francis Dane Chase, who was a merchant, dry goods salesman, and later manager of the Hotel Colonial in New York. They had a daughter, actress Ilka Chase. Her husband had trouble supporting the family, and Chase eventually divorced him. She later married engineer Richard Newton in 1921.

Publishing career
Chase's first position at Vogue was working in the mail room. She worked her way up through the art and make-up departments. When Condé Montrose Nast took over Vogue in 1909, he asked Chase to continue writing under her married name, even though she was divorced. In 1911, he made her managing editor of the magazine and gave her complete control. In 1914, Nast named her editor-in-chief, a position she would hold until 1952.

One major contribution to fashion Chase made the same year she was named editor-in-chief was putting on the first fashion show. As a result of World War I, clothing makers closed their rooms in Paris. Since most of the clothes featured in Vogue were from Paris, Chase took matters into her own hands and called dressmakers in New York and had them make clothing to be featured in a show. This prompted other manufacturers to start making clothes in the United States and selling them at moderate prices.

Another major contribution she made to fashion was the Fashion Group International. In 1928 Chase brought together 17 prominent women in the fashion world. The Fashion Group International (formed then but not an official organization until 1930) publicized American fashion and the role of women in the industry. The Fashion Group International is still in business today.

Retirement and autobiography
Chase retired as editor-in-chief of Vogue in 1952. She then took on chairmanship of the editorial board. She wrote her autobiography, Always in Vogue in 1954 with her daughter.
wikipedia

First cover: January 1,1914
Illustrator Mrs. Newell Tilton



Last cover: December 1951
Photo Erwin Blumenfeld
Model Unknown


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US Vogue April 27, 1929
Illustrator Pierre Mourgue



The Three-Quarter Wrap
Photo Edward Steichen
Model Unknown


Printed Chiffon for Day and Night
Photo Edward Steichen
Models Unknown


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US Vogue April 15,1939
Photo Horst P. Horst
Model Helen Bennett


Slacks and Skirts for Country Living
Photo Horst P. Horst , Toni Frissell
Models Unknown







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US Vogue March 15, 1931
Illustrator Georges Lepape



Country Colours Go in Threes
Illustrator René Bouët-Willaumez
Models Madame Edouard Bourdet, Comtesse Elie de Gaignerson


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US Vogue April 15, 1931
Illustrator Eduardo Benito



Pyjamas Climb a Step Higher
Photo George Hoyningen-Huene
Model Mrs. Nada Ruffer


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US Vogue July 1, 1932
Photo Edward Steichen
Model Unknown

Vogue's first cover using a photograph.



Like a Provencal Peasant Hat
Illustrator Carl Eric Erickson


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Last edited:
US Vogue December 1, 1932
Illustrator Jean Pagès



For Holiday Evenings
Illustrator Ruth Sigrid Grafstrom


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US Vogue February 1, 1933
Illustrator Georges Lepape



Panama Pancakes
Photo Edward Steichen
Models Mrs. Glaenzer, Mrs. Hale, Joan Bennett


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US Vogue August 15, 1933
Photo George Hoyningen-Huene
Model Toto Koopman



Feathers are Flying/Big Hats Are Back
Illustrator Carl Eric Erickson



Beret, Beret
Illustrator René Bouët-Willaumez


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US Vogue April 1, 1934
Illustrator Carl Eric Erickson



Huge Hats, Long Suits
Illustrator René Bouët-Willaumez


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Last edited:
US Vogue September 1, 1934
Illustrator Carl Eric Erickson



Vogue Shadows the Openings
Illustrator Carl Eric Erickson


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US Vogue December 15, 1934
Photo George Hoyningen-Huene
Subject Miriam Hopkins



Travel Chic
Illustrator Carl Eric Erickson


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US Vogue November 1, 1935
Photo Edward Steichen
Model Betty McLauchlen



Miss Helen Vinson/Miss Ilka Chase
Photo Edward Steichen
Models Helen Vinson, Ilka Chase


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Last edited:
US Vogue November 15, 1936
Photo Horst P. Horst
Model Unknown



Flare of Lame
Photo Edward Steichen


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Last edited:
US Vogue June 15, 1937
Photo Anton Bruehl
Model Unknown



Mrs. Vincent Astor/Mrs. Mario Pansa
Illustrator Cecil Beaton


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US Vogue January 1, 1938



Upper Story/Upper Story at Night
Illustrator René Bouët-Willaumez


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US Vogue August 1, 1938
Photo Horst P. Horst
Model Helen Bennett



Hats—and Furs
Illustrator Carl Eric Erickson
Photo Horst P. Horst
Model Lisa Fonssagrives, Unknown


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US Vogue November 15, 1938
Illustrator Carl Eric Erickson



8.30 P.M. in New York
Illustrator René Bouët-Willaumez
Photo George Karger, Horst P. Horst
Models Mary Taylor, Jerome Zerbe, Mrs. Sherman Jenney, Mrs. William Wetmore


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US Vogue April 1, 1939
Photo Horst P. Horst
Models Muriel Maxwell, Ruth Knox Elden



What America Brought Back From the Paris Collections
Photo Horst P. Horst
Illustrator René Bouët-Willaumez
Models Helen Bennett, Muriel Maxwell, Unknown


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