marcBarna
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By Bobbi Queen
wwd.com
When Adam Lippes says something or someplace has inspired a collection, there’s no need to ask “How?” And for resort, Cuba’s influence was strikingly evident as the designer channeled his first trip to Havana in the Eighties as well as present-day influences from the island’s neighbor just to the north, Miami. The takeaway was a beautifully translated collection, his largest ever.
Starting with Cuba’s basic men’s shirt — the guayabera — Lippes added intricate fagoting, embroidery and frayed-edge fringes to create easy tunics and dresses in black or white basket weave viscose. He went more fluid with long, layered side-tied dresses, the best of which was done in sheer silk chiffon over a separate version in satin-backed crepe, both in a charming print of animals from the Cuban rain forest. Comfort is Lippes’ guiding creative conceit and for evening he paired flats with relaxed pieces — a little Castro-green cashmere and cotton tank with matching pleated leather pants or a draped silk skirt. To ward off any chill, he added a knockout waxed cotton trenchcoat.
This was a collection that could easily be cited as all over the place. After all, there was also a beige camel hair jacket and coat, elaborately hand-crocheted sweaters with seven different stitches, a long cotton caftan and red leather overalls. But Lippes’ ladies like to mix it up — and for resort he left nothing out.
wwd.com
