Alaïa S/F 2025 Paris

I think we can all agree that there are some fabulous pieces (black draped/hooded coat is divine!!) & some very unfortunate ones as well (the flesh colored head wrap tops(?) remind me of a condoms). I think we can all also agree that Alaïa deserves a female CD at this point no?
 
I want to love his clothes so bad bc he seems genuinely nice and actually interested in fashion but he refuses to design things with movement 😭 its quite funny that azzedine could make the biggest ashtrakan fur coat look weightless, whereas mullier's draped jersey dresses look like they weight a ton. the voluminous jackets had whiffs of charles james' puffy evening jacket but they lack the allure and glamour. the footwear is a bit unflatering, something about the width of the shoe and the way the heel meets the shoe makes the feet look bloated, especially the white nurse pumps
 
Is he heading to Schiaparelli? Otherwise, I didn't expect Roseberry to be such an influential designer for inspiration!
 
I think we can all agree that there are some fabulous pieces (black draped/hooded coat is divine!!) & some very unfortunate ones as well (the flesh colored head wrap tops(?) remind me of a condoms). I think we can all also agree that Alaïa deserves a female CD at this point no?
Seeing how the suits have shaped most of the current pool of female talent into Philo on The Substance, I don't particularly find myself excited for that anymore.
 
As I always say , to wear Azzedine for the body must be like a hand in a thin lamb leather glove. It’s sensual, light, body-conscious, erotic.
🧤 The leather glove follows every articulation of the hand. They become one. Perfectly.


This collection by Pieter is a boxing glove 🥊
Heavy, tacky, screams look at me, weirdly shaped in an agressive way. It’s just on the body not with the body.

What woman on earth wants to looks like a digestive system ?
 
I think he needs more time in the house and a more intimate understanding of the female body and needs. Many of the architectural ‘roll’ volumes are so contrived, they remind me of those Bauhaus theater costumes. It gets better in those fabulous coats and the simpeler skirts and knits.

I don’t mind him at alaia, nobody will be able to follow in the footsteps of azzedine. But isn’t it nice to have someone who at least clearly puts in an effort? I for once applaud a collection full of risks and errors - as apposed to all these streamlined boring shows.
 

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