Pieter Mulier - Designer, Creative Director of Alaïa | Page 18 | the Fashion Spot

Pieter Mulier - Designer, Creative Director of Alaïa

Well by my humble opinion he needs to stay in Alaïa. The END!

Vitali needed to stay in Versace. He started a great story.

You all here act as Versace was Dior Couture, well it was not, it was always mob-mafia-Miami-gypsy- bling-bling- wanna be couture. It’s not philosophy or way of life, it’s lack of taste for new money. It’s basically Phillip Plein.

Anyway Pieter please stay where you are!!!
i hope your just being provocative here :)

If you love Versace you would know its not one dimensional as we discussed on here last year and its not only what Donatella made of it and its definitely not Philipp Plein.

Let's be real regardless if we like Pieter or Dario or not, i dislike both but i think Pieter will do a better job at Versace.

Remember Dior is only 10 years of real history of its founder, where as Gianni founded Versace in 1978 till his death in 1997 which is like 19 years of pure ideas by its founder that's like double the legacy to pull from ...than the 10 years of Christian Dior's new look etc

In general i don't understand this need to keep dumbing down Versace because of what people remember of last 5 plus year does makes it the whole legacy of the brand.

Gianni did brilliant cut in tailoring and dresses and reworked leather and chainmail with lace etc & was a master in color and print who ever worn it so be it!!! if the loudest things stayed in most people mind, but that does not make it the reality of the brands archive that is readily available online to research.

it seems like only the netflix version of versace is aloud to survive in certain people's minds.

Miami Vice premiered in 1984 many looks of the main characters where from versace it changed how man dress much like giorgio armani for american gigolo with the soft shoulder in 1984 etc
GettyImages-138429748-H-2024.webpTCDMIVI_EC018-EMBED-2024.webp

medusa and barroco prints are just on of many elements of core versace, that where abused lately sure but so does LV and Gucci etc have logo plastered on everything and are also worn and favored by criminals even if most moved on to quit luxury loro piana and hermes sandals etc if you know you know.

Philipp Plein wish!!!lol
 
Unless someone actually knows and trusts the writer of that article, he could just be talking out of his a$$. LinkedIn is somehow just not a reputable expert name on its own.
 
His sculptural approach to the body, his architectural precision, his understanding of desire as something constructed rather than decorated—these are legitimate strengths.

Armando, dahling...what were you smoking when watching Pieter´s collections???
 
Unless someone actually knows and trusts the writer of that article, he could just be talking out of his a$$. LinkedIn is somehow just not a reputable expert name on its own.
At this time any one giving an opinion i regard as the same thing an opinion either her on the forum or ig comment or on linkedin or puck or bof its just to have a talking point to start off with not someone's job title :)

Its not about trusting the writer its about raising questions & having a thought to an idea or situation on a subject.

thats the point of posting any article from any where i find has something that sparkes a conversation or debate :)

I notice a lot of times we get into the quality of the opinion giver (journalist /analyst) while it's more interesting to form our own opinion on the give subject in a debate.

I find puck and bof or ig commenterors or even Cathy Horn etc in various ways just as annoying in lack of dept or unbiased reporting , while there are some interesting luxury & fashion consultants that are holding back less on linked as they have no ties to certain brands or groups for there income and have to stand out. there is also allot of trash you can read and that's not just linkedin but also ig and tiktok or any fashion news website or vogue etc .

its important to read every source that has some insight also the ones you don't agree with or know where their loyalty lies.

somewhere in the middle there's some truth to find, when you some it all up and analyze the information.

you just have to look for interesting idea´s or comments everywhere like a needle in a haystack, and make up your own mind.
 
i hope your just being provocative here :)

If you love Versace you would know its not one dimensional as we discussed on here last year and its not only what Donatella made of it and its definitely not Philipp Plein.

Let's be real regardless if we like Pieter or Dario or not, i dislike both but i think Pieter will do a better job at Versace.

Remember Dior is only 10 years of real history of its founder, where as Gianni founded Versace in 1978 till his death in 1997 which is like 19 years of pure ideas by its founder that's like double the legacy to pull from ...than the 10 years of Christian Dior's new look etc

In general i don't understand this need to keep dumbing down Versace because of what people remember of last 5 plus year does makes it the whole legacy of the brand.

Gianni did brilliant cut in tailoring and dresses and reworked leather and chainmail with lace etc & was a master in color and print who ever worn it so be it!!! if the loudest things stayed in most people mind, but that does not make it the reality of the brands archive that is readily available online to research.

it seems like only the netflix version of versace is aloud to survive in certain people's minds.

Miami Vice premiered in 1984 many looks of the main characters where from versace it changed how man dress much like giorgio armani for american gigolo with the soft shoulder in 1984 etc
View attachment 1443028View attachment 1443029

medusa and barroco prints are just on of many elements of core versace, that where abused lately sure but so does LV and Gucci etc have logo plastered on everything and are also worn and favored by criminals even if most moved on to quit luxury loro piana and hermes sandals etc if you know you know.

Philipp Plein wish!!!lol
We can add more years than the 19 years as he became the CD for Genny in 1973 and did collections for Callaghan, Byblos and Complice among other things.
So there’s so much to explore in his body of work.

And ultimately, even if I don’t like his work for Alaia, Pieter would likely be the type of designer that would explore those untapped elements of Gianni’s work.
 
I’m HOPING that he pulls away from the uber-sculptural approach he had for Alaia, because that became the antithesis of what Alaia was about from a functionality perspective. Yes Azzedine was very rigorous, sinuous and sculpted, but he approached garments from the perspective that there had to be a utilitarian aspect to it. You can’t say you embrace the body when all you do is oppress and/or restrict it for the sake of “artistic expression” and only offer that.

Versace has to be even more practical. That was part of Gianni’s charm. You have something bombshell like but it was also still considerate to the body operating as it should. It embraced curve, sex, glamour and functionality. Can Pieter embrace that? We will have to see because the body condoms and those “infinity” dresses were rather bleak and charmless, and very heavy to look at. Great for editorials, but beyond that they were lifeless. Very much a man designing as a man for women. You can’t validate it via a think piece and exhibit zero attitude.

And Armando’s article is odd. Mulier (like Roseberry) ornaments the body rather than dressed it because his work feels like that of a “site specific” performance artist. It’s too post-modern. There was never any need for such cerebral-isms. It became corny, overworked even. Is there a need for a think piece that correlates to the reasons why one would go back to the basics of Gianni? It’s more telling the audience, rather than actually showing.
 
I’m HOPING that he pulls away from the uber-sculptural approach he had for Alaia, because that became the antithesis of what Alaia was about from a functionality perspective. Yes Azzedine was very rigorous, sinuous and sculpted, but he approached garments from the perspective that there had to be a utilitarian aspect to it. You can’t say you embrace the body when all you do is oppress and/or restrict it for the sake of “artistic expression” and only offer that.

Versace has to be even more practical. That was part of Gianni’s charm. You have something bombshell like but it was also still considerate to the body operating as it should. It embraced curve, sex, glamour and functionality. Can Pieter embrace that? We will have to see because the body condoms and those “infinity” dresses were rather bleak and charmless, and very heavy to look at. Great for editorials, but beyond that they were lifeless. Very much a man designing as a man for women. You can’t validate it via a think piece and exhibit zero attitude.

And Armando’s article is odd. Mulier (like Roseberry) ornaments the body rather than dressed it because his work feels like that of a “site specific” performance artist. It’s too post-modern. There was never any need for such cerebral-isms. It became corny, overworked even. Is there a need for a think piece that correlates to the reasons why one would go back to the basics of Gianni? It’s more telling the audience, rather than actually showing.
the core of the piece for for which he fails to make a solid argument around because its incomplete is

the narrative of talented designer revitalizes heritage house, attracts attention of major group, moves to bigger platform. It is the fashion industry's preferred fairy tale, one we've told ourselves so many times we've stopped questioning whether it's the right story to tell.


i think he went of in pro and contras grey areas while praising etc before actual fleshing out his starting statement question.

i agree the article is odd ..but its lots of slow news weeks for fashion in dec and jan :)
 
I sometimes feel like smaller brands function as incubators for major fashion houses. At this point, compared to Versace, Alaïa is still considered a small brand LMFAO, it’s a bit sad, the way bigger fish end up swallowing the smaller ones.
 

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